Last night leaving work, my co-worker goaded me into laying down some rubber in the parking lot. One wheel spun all the way through first gear, and all of a sudden I knew why the car runs fast enough for et's in the 15's but only puts up numbers in the 16's.

At this point, I don't think I am going to spend big bucks to change the rear on this car. I am tired of the major projects, and I don't want to spend the money right now. I just want to drive it for awhile.

But it did get me to thinking that there is probably a serious reduction in ET available here. And, maybe I should at least think about the options. This car had an 8 1/4" sure grip in it at one time, and I swapped it out to put into my 360 Dart (now sold). I paid a mere $350 for it at a local junk yard, in 1995, and thought I was paying a bloody fortune at the time. But it worked like a charm. I drove it through all the winters of the late 90's and early 0's and it went through snow as effectively as a front drive car. And then I restored the car, and don't even drive it in the rain any more.

The rear that is in it now is an open 8 1/4" of about 2.5 ratio. This fits well with the ultra low first gear in the Mustang T-5. If I kept this tranny, I would not want anything lower than 2.5 or thereabouts. Some day I might put a Termec in with a taller 1st gear.

So now that I am thinking sure grip, are there more common, and maybe cheaper options available out there? I looked at retail market stuff and not only are the choices of carrier, pumpkin, axle housing and axle size and style bewildering to the uninitiated, they are very expensive.

What about Mustang rears? Is there a common Ford rear that is strong, available with posi-traction, or what ever they call it, and cheap that will fit? This might be a reasonable winter project if the price is right.

What are the considerations here? There is axle tube size, flange to flange measurements, perch spread, and U-joint style.

Everything is working so well with this car now, except for the peg leg launches, that I would not break into a major change at this point unless everything just seemed to fall into my lap. The right part, at the right price might push me over the edge.

What rear are most slant racers running?

Sam

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Sam,

There is a guy on Ebay that had the posi units for under $100, new. They were for the real high gear ratio like you are talking about. Ryan bought one but with his 3.91 gears had to have a spacer made. Yours should be a bolt in with a 2.5 ratio. Drop Ryan a PM and he can probably give you some more info.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

If you are running an 8 1/4, I would just get a sure grip for the 8 1/4. I have 8 3/4 in my Barracuda Road Runner, and have 1 1/2 abody rears for my fifes 63. If you need a body 8 3/4 axels I am sure I have an extra set.
Also, I think you are far away, but my buddy offered me a ford 8inch that was complete less brakes I think.....for $100.out of his 65 vert he had.We installed a 9 inch into it like is 92.
Anyhow......my vote would be to get a grip for the rear you are running....prolly the cheapest.
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Ford 8.8 and 9 inch rear axles came in lots of 4X4 type vehicles and can be had with stock with posies and low gear ratios (high numerically). I believe some of the 90s era Ford trucks are even a near bolt in for an A-body as far as width.

Depending on your parts source, it may or may not be cheaper to find a Ford rear end that has positraction and swap it in.

The Ford Exporer 8.8 is an OK choice.....has rear discs,,,,good ratios....and Trac-Loc.

.....but it needs one side narrowed.

light , cheap, available.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Fopar and I run the Ford 8". Mine came out of a '72 Maverick and was a drop in. Having the driveshaft modified to the Ford rear allows over the counter U-Joints to be found anywhere. I spent a tad over 100 bucks for the modification; well worth it after fighting with conversion U-Joints that have to be modified themselves.
Later 8" units, for instance out of the Mustang, are wider.

Install a Richmond Gear locker, and you have a live axle whenever you step down on it. It is a bit noisy going around a corner, but when you launch, you get equal rubber reduction both sides.

An option...

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Is there a truetrac available?

Doesn't need additives, and doesn't wear out.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I just ordered a 3.80 truetrac for my 8" rear (Project V). We'll see how well it works. Not cheap, but hopefully good.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

How much is "not cheap?"

Sam

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The true "poor man's posi" is to take apart the "open" gear carrier and shim the spider and side gears as tight as you can. Doing that and playing around with rear tire pressures, can get the open diff to activate both wheels, in a straight line.
Option # 2... weld the spider / side gears solid for a "do it yourself" spool.
DD

I bought a spool for my 14 bolt GM for $69 (Ebay: Reider Racing Overstock)

.......spool on the street would be a handfull. Accelerating in a corner with a spool in a 4x4 can remove fingers........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

You can get a complete 8" center section with everything new (incl truetrac) but the case and the yoke for $1000. It's $800 for a new trac loc ltd slip (clutch type).

Seems like just buying a suregrip for you 8.25" axle would be by far easier and cheaper. You can likely buy with new bearings pressed on and install it yourself - no need to remove pinion and only need to set backlash+side bearing preload when you're done.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The Maverick 8" are about the same width as an A-body rear? Anyone have a real one to measure, not just information they "read on the internet somewhere"?

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Scott - waywardgarage.com
Why is the rum always gone?

'71 Maverick rear I have measured 56-56.25" from drum-drum surfaces. '80 Granada rear in Project V is 58".

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Let me assure you Lou (Dart 270) knows what he is talking about.....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....