Here are the Next Step(s) in the Process:


Before Re- assembly of the clutch / PP / Flywheel I like to Clean the Bell Housing inside and out before the Reinstall:

Using The parts washer All the old greasy Gunk and clutch dust are removed from the stuff I am going to put back into the car:





The stuff is clean Now!







Even though I am not re-using the Old Flywheel on this project; I am cleaning it and Sending it to the machine shop for surfacing; I will stash it away and Possibly re-use it on another project Later



For This pressure Plate Install I will have to shim the Clutch Fork Pivot Closer to the Flywheel / Engine - If you are using a stock type Pressure Plate this step is NOT Needed.






I removed the Old Clutch Fork Pivot and Used it to layout some bits of Steel to make the spacer.
I marked the holes and Got the general outline for the Spacers.
Also the Stock Bolts That hold the Fork Pivot will be waaay to short so I will replace those too.



Here are some shots of the Spacers I made - I was using some left over angle Iron and Made the spacers - No they are Not Billet, nor are they pretty but they will do the job.









All 3 spacers are done; they measure about 1/2 Inch which should be just right for this setup - I can always unbolt the fork pivot and add or subtract the spacers to get it right.






Next are some shots will all the spacers and Clutch fork pivot installed and bolted down.. Notice the longer bolts needed for this.















All complete and A New Throwout bearing too.. I usually Toss In a New TO Bearing if I have the tranny out and I dont want to do the job again anytime soon.



Now Lets take a look at that 10" Ford/Mazda Pressure Plate from McLeod.

I had some trouble with the clutch hitting / binding on the bolt hole material of the Pressure Plate Hat when I did this install on the dart back in 2006 - It is much easier to cut / grind these tabs before the install raher than after.


The Pen points to the Black line where I am going to make the cuts;
This will happen on 6 of the mounting points.









Tools I used to do this hack:



Bits Removed - Not Much but enough to alleviate hassles later.




Photos of the PP after Cutting the six Little tabs off:






Pen Points to where the cuts were made:






Next:
Test fitting the PP / Clutch / Flywheel / Clutch rod etc..


I have to Wait for the McLeod 464001 Flywheel to come in to do this.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, It would sure be nice if McLeod could get the center registry right to start with. I know it is not a huge deal, but it should not need to be taken to a machine shop out of the box. It cost us $40 and 2 days of waiting to get ours done.

Maybe this one will be correct? Let us know. great write up by the way!!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

What makes the stock flywheel not a good choice for this mod?

_________________
1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

@ Junior - Well I would not use the Stock Flywheel for 2 reasons -

#1 It's made from Powdered metal - Like cast Iron I suppose.. In a performance situation Things could fly apart and this can hurt or seriously hurt someone Not to mention damage you car quite a bit.. I have been there - Not fun.

#2 to use the Ford 10" PP the Bolt pattern for this on a slant Flywheel Has to be VERY close to the edge.. Near the ring Gear - The steel piece will do a better job with this small amount of material near the edge of the bolt holes.. and Not to mention you have to find a very competent machine shop to modify you stock PP to do this.. Could it be done .. yes I would not choose to do this.



Update... I ordered part #McLeod 464001 This time I used a local guy in town that was cutting my old flywheel - He is a McLeod Dealer - So a few weeks go by and I get the flywheel in.. I ask him to check the Center register - 'cause If it needs machined out to 2.165" (i am installing in a '68 up application) He could do this before I picked up the part.. He verified that the part had indeed come in with the '68 Up register... Great.

So I get home and notice the pP mounting patterns look funny...

It came with 2Sets of Mopar Borg& Beck PP Mounting holes drilled on it.

This certainly wont work.. Currently Waiting on a return to McLeod for a correction on this. Will post updates when Info is available.

I did not have this problem 6 years ago with the part in the Dart - It was right the first time with the dual PP mounting pattern.

If you are interested in this flywheel maybe call McLeod Tech and Be sure to verify the 2 Patterns before they make yours.



Pics:

Here is the New McLeod Piece - Weighs 20#
Notice the "double" stock PP mounts..



McLeod Piece Came in with the large Register:



Stock Flywheel Has been Cut a few Times - Weighs In @ ~17#



The Ford 10" PP does not line up anywhere on this McLeod Unit - It should - They screwed up:-(


Shots of the Stock PP lining up on 2 Sets of Holes. - Dumb














More to come when info is Available.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg,

The 17# stock flywheel, what does the crankshaft side look like. Just curious since there are two flywheel styles depending on car vs. truck/ forged vs. cast crank applications. Just want to see if you have the standard car one with out the "ring/ridge" or the truck flywheel.

Good info, keep it coming.

-D.Idiot

Here You Go DI...



These are shots of the backside of the Flywheel I pulled from the ca and had cut.... I am really not sure if it was originally from a cast engine or not.. THis car had a lockup 904 in it back on 2004 - Then I put the OD 833 in.. Nit sure where I got they flywheel.







Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's a car flywheel, I've found a couple on 1978 F-bodies as well...

The truck/late units have a thick ring on the back side...(which seems to help motivate fat a-bodies off the line due to the extra weight...which was probably needed to get a fat truck off the line when the engine got strangled by emissions requirements).

Thanks for sharing!

-D.Idiot

So when everyone says if you take a manual transmission over 5000 rpm its gonna come apart, what actually fails? Flywheel or the pressure plate?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Typically the pressure plate in the clutch cover fails first. Cast (iron and aluminum) flywheels are illegal under SCTA/BNI regulations for Bonneville and El Mirage. I ran my road race car over 6000 RPM and nothing failed, but it's risky.

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Joshua

I've done multiple 6000-6200 rpm clutch dumps on street tires and either the 9 1/4" stock clutch disc withers out or the kevlar disc takes on too much heat and just slides around....I haven't had a stock flywheel come apart yet, but I haven't pushed one to the "extreme" (gummy slicks, high rpm, puck clutch, lots of HP).

-D.Idiot

I think multiple 6000 RPM clutch dumps is the extreme on a stock set-up. I had done the same thing many ,many times . Mine exploded on street tires on the 1-2 shift. I am telling you, it ain't pretty. No way I would even consider using the stock stuff for high RPM shifts. I like walking too much. Do a search on Greg's 69 Dart and look at the pictures of his explosion. I had the twin explosion to his.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The Local McLeod Dealer sent my Flywheel back to get the correct Bolt pattern drilled on it.


I reccommend to call McLeod Directly to Order your flywhyeel and Tell them to Order part # 464001 but to drill it with a stock Borg & Beck Pattern (McLeod PP Pattern #3 in their Catalog), & that you will be using McLeod # 360116 as your pressure plate - Ask them to drill this Pattern on your flywheel too.

I didnt have this problem in 2006 when I ordered # 464001 Directly but This time i Did - Hopefully I can get this all buttoned up in a week or 2.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well After all the waiting for McLeod To get the Flywheel drilled correctly I got all the parts back and assembled in the car.

I clearly did not have all this trouble back in 2006 when Red Roberts ran the McLeod company.

Here is the Remaining install:

The flywheel is Back With 3 bolt Patterns on it Now.



It now has the Pattern to mount the Ford 10" Pressure Plate... YAY



I choose To use ARP Pressure Plate Bolts..





These bolts come with Washers from ARP and They are listed for a Ford under ARP Part # 150-2201 - They would work with your stock Slant Flywheel too



Flywheel Installed - Used Some Red Locktite on the Threads.









I will Use the Dinky Plastic Clutch alignment tool until I get the Press. Plate "Started" on the Flywheel.









After I Get the bots started just enough to hold the PP down (finger tight)
I swap my clutch alignment tool to an old Input shaft.. I find this to be less hasslesome and the disc does not "slide" around and fall out of alignment with this tool.






Once I get the disc in good smooth alignment with the old input shaft Then I start to crank the PP down in a criss-cross Pattern (much like the lugnut tightening sequence..) but just a few turns at a time at each bolt until the entire PP is bolted flush to the Flywheel and exerting full clamp load. (this process is much like putting a drum head on a Drum)





All Tightened up Flush to flywheel.









Remember the Clearance Notches I made HERE?
Here is Why I did that.. On the Dart the Clutch disc caught the Area of the PP near the bolt haed So A little clearance helps.


When I first Test Fit the Bell Housing on I coundnt get it to sit flush against the block..

No Problem.. I shimmed the clutch fork pivot too close to the engine..

I removed one of the 3 Shims I made and clearance as good.






I originally Had a stack of 3 spacers in there. Now just using 2. (this could vary with different TO beareings etc.. By the way Use a New stock TO bearing it will work if you are still using ma mopar's Linkage system.



One of the Bolts needed a bit of grinding so the Bellhousing would sit flat against the front of the trans Face.




The entire Set of Pics for this project may be found here:


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg thanks for the awesome write up with pics. I am putting a slant six with a 4 speed overdrive in my 48 Dodge Panel truck. The engine is going to to turbocharged, but nothing crazy. My question is, can I have the original flywheel redrilled without any issues? I'm just trying to save a few bucks, so I can get my hydraulic throwout bearing going as well. thanks

Hello, I have never tried to Put the Mazda/Ford 10" Pressure Plate Pattern on a Stock Slant Car Flywheel. I would imagine if you were using an 11" truck unit this would not e an issue.

You say with out Issues... Well this particular Pressure Plate Bolt pattern sits Very Far out on a stock Slant (car) flywheel.. the holes almost hit the Ring gear.. With The 2 Steel Flywheels (one in the Dart That Has had many High 14 Second Passes on it) this setup has never had any issues..

I do not know and Cannot speculate about the Stock Cast Flywheel holding up When the Holes are Drilled so near the outer edge of the Flywheel. I do know they hold up fine in steel.

If you continue this route, get the disc and Pressure Plate Part #'s Listed in the thread from Summit Racing and then take the Pressure Plate and Flywheel to a Very Competent & trustworthy Machinist to have the pattern drilled. It has to be centered spot on. I am not a machinist, Bu I know that if that part of the whole operation is messed up your project is shot.


Best of luck.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack