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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:53 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:33 pm
Posts: 5
Location: SierraVista, AZ
Car Model:
Just got my slant rebuilt. Top to bottom. Did a few test drives today. Realy looking forward to adjusting valve lash in the morning. I love the simplicity of my 67 valiant!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:53 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 5:08 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Port Orchard, WA
Car Model:
I need to do a valve lash on the mill and instead of asking questions in new topics, I used the "search" function. This instructional post was very informative and I like that you adjust them at operating temp. Somebody suggested adjust them hot and check them in the morning for the cold settings. I like that idea too and will take note of what the cold readings are for future minor adjustments. This forum is awesome, I don't own a Dodge vehicle but our mill is powered by a 225 /6 and everyone has been very welcoming. Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:27 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:06 am
Posts: 295
Location: Clearlake, CA.
Car Model:
Great write up Dan and love all the different techniques people use. I just used a simple box end wrench on mine... The thing that gets me, I dont know if its just the oil I run (royal purple HPS 10w-40) or if I have them adjusted wrong but I have pretty much no engine noise at all... Every slant Ive heard running has some valve-train noise, but not mine. Adjusted them with engine hot, while running at .012 in, and .022 exh... Havnt re-adjusted since I put the engine in and did the inital settings but have checked them a couple times in the last couple thousand miles and they're still dead on where I set them. :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:56 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 3:31 pm
Posts: 13
Car Model:
I have had to build 2 engines recently, and here is the procedure I used.

On a cold engine, turn the engine to TDC and adjust all the valves that are loose. Then turn the engine 360 degrees and again do the loose ones. These will be the ones that you didn't do the first time. (I seem to remember that there is one cylinder that will be loose both times, but I can't remember which one). I use .012" for the intake and .022" for the exhaust. After I warmed up the engines, I only had to "tweak" 3 of the valves on each motor when they were warm. This gets you "in the ball park" quickly.

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1972 Plymouth Scamp with a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:58 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:10 am
Posts: 29
Location: Switzerland
Car Model: 62 Valiant and 62 Lancer, both Swiss Made
Thanks, Dan!

Shall i do it the same way on the Alu engine on my 62 Lancer? I think, the engine must be very hot for the adjustment.

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:06 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:43 am
Posts: 5
Location: Los Angeles Ca
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Start Beating Horses LOL if it were that simple the dude will then ask why and why not another way. i understand what you mean. i like SSDAn's explination. cause I was going to ask the other questions. He nipped it in the Bud. wish i would have read it before cause i adjusted valves but didn't know about lowering idle. thats how i lost 2 sockets into the engine. didn't know any better now i do. might just go over it again...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:12 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24246
Location: North America
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PhilippM wrote:
Thanks, Dan!
Shall i do it the same way on the Alu engine on my 62 Lancer?


Yes, same way.

Quote:
I think, the engine must be very hot for the adjustment.


Normal operating temperature is fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 3:44 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1359
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
t_melhoff wrote:
I have had to build 2 engines recently, and here is the procedure I used.

On a cold engine, turn the engine to TDC and adjust all the valves that are loose. Then turn the engine 360 degrees and again do the loose ones. These will be the ones that you didn't do the first time. (I seem to remember that there is one cylinder that will be loose both times, but I can't remember which one). I use .012" for the intake and .022" for the exhaust. After I warmed up the engines, I only had to "tweak" 3 of the valves on each motor when they were warm. This gets you "in the ball park" quickly.


This is the same method I use and have never had to re-adjust more that 3 valves hot either.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 10:11 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 7:57 am
Posts: 319
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Car Model: 1966 Dodge Dart
Just wanted to bump the notes on the gasket, as it looks like the Chrysler 2899250 has become a bit tricky to find through normal channels and the rubber Fel-Pro seems to have completely disappeared. I've found a silicone valve cover gasket and ordered one:

https://realgaskets.com/product/valve-cover-gasket-38/

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:24 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: TEXAS
Car Model:
Matt- I've been using Real Gaskets for years! Amazing product. Cleans up with Dawn dish soap & water. I currently use the Valve Cover gasket and the transmission pan gasket.

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1964 Dart GT


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