Hi All

Its been a while since I was on the /6 forum as I moved and had my Dart in storage, then moved again - but I am back! I pulled the dart out of storage a couple of months ago and drove it from St Louis to Kansas City - went well. Only issues were oil leaks (fixed by replacing the plug tube o rings) and a leak developed in the front of the ex/in gasket. I have a 65 Dart with /6 original spec, offy intake with 2 x holley 1920 carbs. Dutra dual front exhaust.

So while I had the intake/exhaust off I thought I would redo it all. Ever since I put on the dual 1bbls and dutra dual, it hasnt ran as good as I would like. I knew the front carb had a weak pump, so I replaced the carb with a reconditioned one (I exactly matched it up with the existing) back carb). I put on a brand new offy 2x1 inlet manifold, front carb, lower rad hose, heater hoses, did the reroute fuel line modification (still need a metal cannister fuel filter but at least I dont see the gas boiling anymore!), double checked valve clearances, timing is at 10 when idling. Main jets are 56 and the rods that come off the plastic part that holds the accelerator diaphram rod are connected to the middle holes. I have checked the fuel squirt and it is strong in both carbs. I have checked the float levels and they are good. I also checked for any leaks and that all bolts on the inlet/exhaust manifolds are good and tight. Finally, I have also changed jet sizes up and down and no difference to the idle problem.

Symptoms are if I keep driving the car the idle will change (not smooth) after 5+ mins of driving (depending on how hot it is outside) and it will then stutter with the first part of acceleration. If I floor it its fine, its just that first part of throttle movement and the idle. I am convinced it is due to the general heat over here and the front fuel bowl on the offy being so close to the Dutra Dual/exhaust, that the fuel bowl on the front intake is too hot? If I use the car for say 10 mins and it doesnt start to run rough, then shut it off for 10 mins and try to restart it - its really hard to start and will run rough. The temp guage will be around 1/2 way, but under the hood is damn hot. I mean I cant touch the inlet manifold above the DD. My current radiator appears to be in great shape. (ie it doesnt have any rot, discoloration and it doesnt leak any). I have flushed it with a hose and it seems to be ok.

Tonight I am replacing the thermostat. I have a new distributor with new vacuum advance on the way to me.

So my question (long winded but you need the full story!) is should I keep on the water cooling track - ie put a 1967 (or 1970) HD radiator in it (as per other cooling posts) or should I try and shield the bottom of the offy intake (if so can I make a shield out of aluminium, cover the bottom of it with adhesive heat wrap and put it under the intake manifold? I am so close to having the car running perfect that its eating me up inside! Help me become at one with my car again

Here is a pic taken on saturday, so you can see whats what.


thanks all
ricki

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65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

No suggestions, but PRETTY engine!

VM

Hey Guys, I have a question... You mentioned the fuel boiling... I sometimes see bubbles in my filter... how does the car run when the fuel boils?? I still have the fuel line routed stock, but sometimes it seems to run really rich for no reason. but always after running for a while. it will idle and run fine when cold, or cool. but after 45 minutes on highway, wants to run rich/rough, and stall...
it is a 390 4 bbl, holley... recently rebuilt. runs awesome otherwise...

thanks for the help...

Chris

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65 Coronet, 4 bbl, .060 over, mild cam.
66 Valiant, Black, 3spd, Hyperpak, headers.
works in progress...

vynn3 - thankyou. Just need to get it running as good as it looks !

newpoppop - boiling fuel would tend to make it run leaner and rougher - kinda like what I am experiencing but I feel that I have ruled that out.

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65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

Did you remove the heat flap out of the rear modified manifold?

I've seen the dual weber setup cook the rear carb and boil the gas in it...have you also checked you spark plug color...I'm wondering if you are running a bit lean (which makes things a bit hot also).



-D.Idiot

The rear exhuast manifold has the heat riser and it seems to be working ok. After I do the thermostat tonight and take it for a drive I will wire the flap closed to see if that makes any difference.

The plugs are white-ish on the tips. I replaced them yesterday (although I dont think I needed to). I'll take a picture so you can see the how they look.

_________________
65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

Thanks ricki...

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65 Coronet, 4 bbl, .060 over, mild cam.
66 Valiant, Black, 3spd, Hyperpak, headers.
works in progress...

I installed a new thermostat tonight and drove around - Sure enough - ran like a champ then after about 10 minutes the same old problems set in. Interestingly it was in the 70's outside (a lot cooler than in the 90's during the day when I had been driving around).

When it started to run rough, the temp guage was reading normal temp (about a third).
* I tried turning the mixture screws out a few more turns on each carb (running it richer) but that did not effect the stumbling.
* I checked the heat riser and it was closed (standing in the front of the car looking at the motor the heat rise counterweight was turned clockwise as far as it would go - thats closed right ?).

The car still idles and drives ok, but the idle is rougher and there is a flat spot/stumbling in the first part of accelerating (unless you floor it) and the same stumbling if you hold your foot just on the gas to keep a steady slower speed.

So tonight, I think I have ruled out cooling as far as water flow goes? I'll wait for the new dizzy and vacuum pod to arrive and try things again.

Here is a photo of the plugs that I took out in the weekend. #1 is on the left through to #6 on the right. Ignore any crap on the threads as I had them sitting on the garage floor after I took them out (well I dropped em there as they were damn hot!). Any thoughts ?

Jeez I type alot!
cheers
ricki

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65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

Valve adjustment?????????

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Here is what I would do: put plastic or fiber spacers under the carbs enough to raise them at least 1/2". If you can get 1" and still get your choke, linkeage, aircleaners to clear, etc, so much the better. Then put an aluminum shield under the carbs, but over the intake. Some of the later slants I have seen in wrecking yards have had this, and it looked like it was from the factory. If that does not fix it,then I would try putting your acceration pump link in the closer hole so as to get a stronger shot off idle. If that makes it worse, then put the link in the further hole, to weaken the shot. Try several different combinations since you have two different carbs, in different spots. You might try the front one on the richer spot, and thhe rear one in the middle, etc.
Then check your tiiming and see if you are getting a sudden drop in timing when you open the throttle. Timing issues can cause a stumble like yours too.
Check your voltage on the high side of your ballast resister at idle, and see if you are losing voltage through old wiring. Any more than 1/2 volt drop from alternator to high side of the ballast resister, and you can get symptoms like yours due to voltage drop when the load increases on a high resistance old ignition wire.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Sam

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Thanks for the replies.

I hadnt thought of the voltage testing. I have about 1/2 an inch that I can play with for carb spacers (I cut down the front aircleaner filter for hood clearance so I have a little bit of space there).

By Friday I should have a new distributor, coil, ballast resister. So this weekend I'll put all that on. Then I'll check the timing, voltages, tappit clearances, play round with putting the accerator pump in different locations and keep my fingers crossed!

I'll update this thread as I go along...

cheers
ricki

_________________
65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

Is your vacuum advance hooked up on the distributor and to what carb?

-D.Idiot

Vacuum advance is hooked to the distributor and to the back carb. I have sucked on the tube to make sure the vacuum pod doesnt have a leak.

_________________
65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

Status?

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Cheers!
Al T

Should it not be anti clockwise, standing in front of the car?

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23