Does anyone have a vacuum hose diagram for a '78 SL6 used in a 78 1/2 ton? I'm also looking to purchase a used vacuum booster harness with the factory plug. The biggest problem I'm having is when driving the vehicle cold, the choke pull-off is closing when I lose vacuum through partial throttle until it warms up enough for the stove to pull it open. It is adjusted properly, and the vac pulloff is good, but I'm not sure on how to route the vac lines to the vac booster. Thanks MBF

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Good gun control is hitting your target repeatedly

Let's figure out first what you mean by "vacuum booster". The only part with that name is mounted between the brake master cylinder and the firewall, and has nothing to do with the operation of any part of the carburetor. Is that the part you're talking about? Or are you talking about the dingus that looks like a hockey puck and is mounted atop the cylinder head, just inboard of the valve cover, several inches away from the carburetor? If so, that's to do with the EGR system and also has nothing to do with the choke pull-off. The choke pull-off should be connected directly to manifold vacuum; there's a port on the carburetor body for that purpose. It's not supposed to see "captured" vacuum when the throttle is opened; it's supposed to continue seeing manifold vacuum. Some people have reported benefits from installing a particular vacuum valve sold by Ford in series with the choke pull-off's vacuum line, but -- just guessing here because I don't know what actual driveability symptoms you're trying to nail -- it sounds to me like the choke pull-off either is damaged, or ruptured, or stiffened with age, or improperly adjusted.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

What I meant was the vacuum amplifier circuit that operates the EGR system-sorry for the confusion. MBF-thanks for the diagram.

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Good gun control is hitting your target repeatedly