As some of you all know I am a bit of an instigator when it comes to parts and I have tried the alloy head route with Indy and to say the lease it did not go well.(I'm still licking my wounds ) I got us a bit of a deal with Sheldon over at T&D for rockers and well I'm also working on iron gears for the distributors. Although I've been lazy and haven't sent Doc the samples for testing yet.

Well I'm at it again... I'm working with a company to make us 6.900" rod and once all the spec are worked out for the pistons (I'm hoping the piston company will work with me/us as well.) as far a compression height and all we may have a drop in bottom end kit that requires no more .100 off the head/deck and will give use 0 deck height with a basic clean up of the deck and maybe around $400 to $500 per set.(Rods)

A head that is around 55 to 62 cc's should come in to around 9.3/1-10/1 on the compression side. Don't get after me yet on this yet trust me I'm so all over this. At the rate this is shaping up my 452 b/rb motor may never happen but to help all the really good people here is a far better thing to do. I might just put this motor in my 71 demon instead. I will keep everyone updated on this as it progresses. thanks guys.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

Good luck! I tried figuring something out as far as somewhat custom rods. I looked at several trying to see if I could resize them or make them and such. The price is about right, but couldn't find anyone to play ball. Maybe T&D will or whoever will risk building untested rods, but the custom shops wouldn't do it for me as an "inusrance" liabailty.

Well T&D make rollr rockersnot rods the company I am dealing with only mkes rods.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

I like that idea!

I'm in the market for hipo rods come Spring/Summer-ish. Keep us updated.

Is there progress on a group buy with T&D? Did you already buy a set?

Thanks,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sadly, no rockers for me yet now I am still aiming for some but maybe after taxes. I do mine in this month. now speaking with this company they will put to gather a complete rotating assy. for use and sell as a kit. pistons, rings, bearings, pins ,rods,and arp bolts will be included. I'll try and set up the wiesco pistons.....oops did that slip ...from compressions choices for a stock deck height between 10/1 and 9/1 all depending on the cc of that persons combustion chamber. And all of this is as budgeted on the lowest side as possible guys. I'm sending off samples next week for the basics and will go on from there. Say tuned everyone these guys are really into this idea and are going out of there way on on this for us .

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

I will certianly keep my fingers crossed. This would be a great asset for the racers.
Thanks
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I don't understand why you need to have custom forged pistons made. Why don't you just design the rods to use a standard 87mm forged piston. As an example, a 87mm piston for the VW flat four comes to mind. Seems to me, to be cheaper and easier in the long run.

Kesteb has a point, and I also think a 7.00 or 7.10" rod would be a better length to use aftermarket (shorter) pistons. About 7.10" would make Neon/PT/Chrysler 2.0-2.4L pistons, and several others with 1.4-1.5" comp height easier to use.

Just some thoughts,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I am in violent agreement with Kestab and Lou. Go with a 7.0 or longer rod, and pick some good forged pistons that match up with the correct deck and compression height. Toyota makes some pistons the right size, or the SRT-4 would be close.

I have a set of 198 rods that I would be willing to give up if you came up with the right solution.

How about we start with picking the piston, and then design the rod to work with it?

Thanks,

Greg

Ok boys this is my plan on how it will work. I want a 6.900 rod and using a compression height of 1.730 piston will come to a tolal deck height of 10.692 on my engine. Now this is with a .010 clean up of the deck surface. The pistons will range from 3.43 to 3.50 bore for stock rebuild up to all out race motors. If we use the .990 pins size the will also help keep costs down. The piston face may change for different compression ratio's but be the same over all. Does a VW rod handle 400 plus HP stock? I don't think so but these "new" rods will I belive. I am giving everyone a shot at NEW rods FOR a slant not something that just works. These will drop in no issues and get the same results without milling head/deck .100 and no custom push rods are need. Im trying to give this community something it doesn't get that often off the shelf parts for a slant. Tom if you read this chime in please.....

This is my build plan so if it wont work for any body else oh well I tried .
To tell the truth It kind of sucks that if someone finds the means and the way no one cares but if the path isn't found they day dream and bench race the idea and say "Why cant we have great parts for our typle of engine."

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

Ok boys this is my plan on how it will work. I want a 6.900 rod and using a compression height of 1.730 piston will come to a tolal deck height of 10.692 on my engine. Now this is with a .010 clean up of the deck surface. The pistons will range from 3.43 to 3.50 bore for stock rebuild up to all out race motors. If we use the .990 pins size the will also help keep costs down. The piston face may change for different compression ratio's but be the same over all. Does a VW rod handle 400 plus HP stock? I don't think so but these "new" rods will I belive. I am giving everyone a shot at NEW rods FOR a slant not something that just works. These will drop in no issues and get the same results without milling head/deck .100 and no custom push rods are need. Im trying to give this community something it doesn't get that often off the shelf parts for a slant. Tom if you read this chime in please.....

This is my build plan so if it wont work for any body else oh well I tried .
To tell the truth It kind of sucks that if someone finds the means and the way no one cares but if the path isn't found they day dream and bench race the idea and say "Why cant we have great parts for our typle of engine."

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

We can make just about any length connecting rod and the price will not change much if any at all. Using a stock piston is fine but if it is moved up in the bore to increase the compression ratio, there may also be some valve to piston crash because the stock piston was not made with the kind of valve pockets it takes to run up there. Using an aftermarket piston will also give you a lighter piston. Not only will the lighter piston make the engine rev quicker, it will also gain power. The piston stops twice every stroke. It takes power to stop it and it takes power to start it. Besides, the stock pistons were designed to go back and forth to the grocery store not run at higher compression ratios and RPM.

Are you the rep for the company making the rods? I would disagree for the slant six that moving the piston up somehow up the bore that you could easily run into piston slap. I guess it would depend on how much lift and how far up, just like any engine. But it was a great wake up for my engine!
What do you plan on the design of the pistons? Also what material? I do agree that lighter pistons will help with revs and is one trick to utilize to offest the long stroke.
What do you plan to make the rods out of? Are they billet or forged? I had attempted to get something like this rolling before and many CNC labs wouldn't cut them for "insurance purposes", one even metioned that he couldn't pay for fixing a 100 cars becuase of MY design flaw, I laughed and thanked him for his time.

I have to agree with the masses, If a better (read stronger) rod was to be designed I think that the cheapest way to do it would be to use a piston that is easily avalible. Blocks are cheap and readily available so cutting the block to a set height is much cheaper than offering different rotating assemblies. Then again... this is why I haven't finished my engine build, because I don't have the time or money to package everything

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