I found this add on moparts:

What we have here is a brand new reproduction voltage regulator for a 1962-1969 Dodge Plymouth or Chrysler vehicle. This regulator looks almost exactly like what the originals look like from the outside, it even has the IGN and FLD stamped into the cover, but hidden inside is a small circuit board with diodes, transistors, and other electronic components. This voltage regulator is completely electronic. No more points that cause voltage fluctuations. Now you can have the best of both worlds, a voltage regulator that looks stock but is all electronic inside. This is a bolt on upgrade, no modifications are necessary. Bolt it on and plug in your factory wiring, its that simple. The cost for these are $25.00 each with free shipping anywhere in the continental US.

If you have any questions you can email me at mrrandyj@aol.com

Its on the first page of the a body parts for sale page.I was wondering if this would work in place of me converting to a dual field alt? I want to do my HEI upgrade NOW,im tired of my points sticking at interstate speeds.But I dont have any spare cash for a new alt/regulator/and wiring.Would this work or is it a bad gimmick? Dan any comments?

You can always make your own regulator.......

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... =regulator

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I don't like the no-name electronic regulators - have found them less than perfectly reliable, and I don't need the headache of worrying about it. On the single-wire '60-'69 systems I try to use a NAPA Echlin VR-1001 or Standard-BlueStreak VR-128. But if you need to have the original appearance, then you could get the type you're asking about, and carry a spare. But for the same money you can have a known-reliable quality-made regulator.

Don't forget to run a ground loop (alternator housing to voltage regulator base, voltage regulator base to battery negative).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I dont really care about orignal appearence! I just want a reliable electronic voltage reg so I can run my HEI upgrade.So Dan do you think this is a good alternative to running the dual field system with the newer stylle regulator?

Over 5 years ago I bought a $10 VR from J.C.Whitney for the Tidewater Mopar Club's giveaway 1965 Baracuda - looked almost stock, used surface mount electronics inside, and worked fine with a stock Mopar electronic ignition. I wouldn't be surprised if nearly all replacements are now really electronic inside - it's much cheaper than the relays. You can easily tell from the weight whether it's full of coils or transistors.

It looked like you could swap the old one's cover onto the new one and be virtually indistinguishable from the old one.

You can run a HEI ignition with a points type regulator too.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Yep, my valiant's charging system is all original 1967 Chrysler parts. The HEI has been on the car for a few thousand miles (all original GM components) and no problems.

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Joshua

I was sick of points and in a hurry.

If you want the points gone now and it’s going to be a while before you do HEI anyway, you can get Pertronics for about $80.

It’s not as good because you can’t buy individual parts for it if it breaks. It’s probably not as good on a race engine or something but it works well and the points are gone in about 30 minutes. I’ve put 60-70k miles on one of mine.

Danny

They're not. NAPA Echlin VR-32, VR-34, and VR-35, Standard-BlueStreak VR-101 are all points-type regulators still in current production for the pre-'70 Mopar applications. VR-101X might be electronic.



Look on the back. If there are wirewound resistors, it's a points-type regulator. If not, it's solid-state.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So its not required that I have an electronic voltage regulator with HEI? Thats nice to know.I think Im still going to pick up the one Dan reccomended,just for piece of mind since I am almost sure my stock unit is orignal(1966 production date ) I can convert to HEI for cheaper than the petronix kit,I already have the dizzy,but thank you for the suggestion.Thanks to all that replied,you have been a great help!