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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 3:04 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
this is what i did for mine, hopefully get the sensor mounted up in the next few days.



Image

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(i did do another pass and go a bit deeper on the main balancer snout to give sufficient clearance for timing case/seal etc)

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temp mounting screws, all i could find laying around, will get some countersunk allen head bolts, also the wheel is just interference fit on the hub/spacer i made once the sensor is mounted, i'll clock it to the correct position and mark, remove, and fix it with some countersunk screws on the back side


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 7:03 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Try again on your photos please. I am interested in the pictures.

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 2:17 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
Try this, not sure why they didn't work

http://danspec.net/index.php/58-vf-val-build/402-225-slant-efi-conversion


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 2:58 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Seems to be working now. Thanks for the link. That looks great.
Sam

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 3:17 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 345
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
Thats exactly what I was going to do with a power steering pump pulley but it didnt work out so I cut the teeth in the inside balancer groove. Pick-up is mounted in same place, right off cover. I used smaller than needed machine screws from the inside, RTV'd and cinched tight with a lock nut and then a second nut to set height of sensor, then sensor and last lock nut over a washer. I have about 2mm of play in any direction since the screw is smaller than the sensor holes. I did the original measurement with the cover off and the reluctor wheel sitting in the seal for a baseline center. I then put a .5mm feeler gauge onto the magnetic sensor and let it stick to the wheel on any tooth, centered (iirc it will end up 6 teeth ahead of the missing one) at TDC. So you just get it to TDC, mount sensor centered over ANY handy tooth and grind off the tooth 6 ahead (to the right) of the sensor tooth. It doesnt have to be under the timing tab.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 4:22 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
Did you have to drop the sump to get the timing case off?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 5:26 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 345
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
suprisingly, no. You do need to loosen ALL bolts and get it down about 3mm so as to get the rubber seal thats attached to the cover to wedge under the pan. It takes a few cuss words and some pressure to get the locating lugs to engage, then you bolt it home. I could NOT get it on without dropping the pan a few threads but I was using new gasket, your old one may be compressed enough to slide in without loosening pan.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 5:52 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
That's awesome news, annoying part is taking the balancer back off really!

And feeler gauge is exactly what I had planned for setting the gap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:11 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 345
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
here are a few pics. The clearance between the Ford EDIS sensor and the teeth is supposed to be .5-1.5mm. I think Im close enough. The challenge is getting the correct depth of the sensor as you dont know where the teeth will end up. Mine just kept getting closer to the cover the more I tightened. I finally bottomed out with almost none to spare. I have just one washer under the lower lug and one nut plus a washer on the top. Use threaded mounts! I still have to grind off the missing tooth once I find TDC again. Ill take it off once more to grind and paint. The balancer installer you see is actually the jack screw of a Lisle brand damper puller, a crank bolt washer and a large hex nut. You can hold the jackscrew with the 9/16 hex on the end while turning the nut which presses the damper on, just like a dedicated damper installer.
ImageImage
ImageImage
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 3:07 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
sweet thanks for the pics, reason i did the wheel first was so i could get sensor 100% the first go, the laser cut wheels already have the missing tooth also so i need to just rotate it around to match up with whatever tooth it needed to be before the missing tooth at TDC.

i think i'll end up with a 3mm spacer behind the sensor, i did try that 5mm one just eyeballed it down there and guessed it needed to be about that, but its just a touch too far off center, i might even get away with tack welding it to the timing case and not removing it at all,

will not get anything done tonight on it, but i'll get into it tomorrow and try and get it mounted, and finalized,

how close are you to getting yours running?

next thing i need to sort out is the mounts for the LS2 coils i got, and sort out some leads for it, might use the leads off one of my other cars and make the brackets to suit a standard off the shelf length, do need to check if the LS1 leads plug into LS2 coils still


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 4:58 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16447
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Nice work here, folks. Thanks very much for posting your setups.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 6:30 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
got the sensor tacked on this evening, shorted out the starter relay and wound the motor over with the starter to make sure it was all clear, 0.5mm clearance.

i had never had a timing light on this motor, turns out that TDC isnt TDC as marked, spun the outer of the balancer at some point in its life 2 or 3 inches, got that re-marked, and lined up the wheel with the sensor, and pulled the balancer back off,

tomorrow evening i'll drill/tap and bolt the wheel in place and get it re-installed, i broke the clip on the sensor plug, will have to chase one up, but it will work for testing,

once thats done i'll work on making some brackets up for the coils, might even wire up the sensor to megasquirt and test it too, but once the coil brackets are done, things will have to get serious and i'll need to figure out where to mount the MS, and make up a loom, or at least do the ignition loom, and coil up the spares for when the fuel side of things gets going,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:11 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 8977
Location: IRWIN PA
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Read down the Link a bit, but it's all there.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=930


Diyautotune hall sensor and 6.75" 36-1 Trigger wheel Drilled to mount on a 1" Moroso Mandrel Drive.


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 5:15 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
looks great Greg, still need to finish reading the rest of your thread now, i think i want to go for the clean/hidden coils look, although at a glance it looks like its going to bit a bit of a pain getting a bracket bolted up down there to the side, we will have to see how it goes

Got mine all set up now, bracket has a series of welds around it, wheel was lined up with a tooth at TDC, pulled balancer and clamped it down in the mill in its position and drilled through wheel and spacer all in one go 4x, tapped threads, and got it all bolted on with a drop of loctite on each, and balancer re-installed in the car, the minimal runout i had on the trigger wheel is now gone after fixing the wheel down into its final position

decided to purchase Tunerstudio so i can use the ignition logger viewer on the motor through the RPM range while its still running carb and points, and make sure its all working as it should before i cut into the next phase of the swap, removal of distributor/coil and distributor!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 7:47 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 39
Location: Australia
Car Model:
well its alive and running with no distributor, did some testing last night, managed to get it started, tried during the day but was having some backfiring issues, turns out i got spark B and C mixed up, swapped 2 wires around, and it started straight up, no problems, much more snappy, smoother idle, over all great thus far.

only issue i have is that the usb to serial adapter i got from diyautotune wont function while the car is running with the coils,
works fine with engine off.


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