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Need 1962 Dodge Lancer Push Button Repair Help
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Danarchy
Turbo EFI


Joined: 25 Mar 2009
Posts: 1439
Location: TEXAS

Post subject: (Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:44 pm) Reply with quote

possible, simple, quick fix would be to swap the 1st & 2nd buttons with the "D" and "R" buttons ??? since they are not used nearly as much! Shocked Laughing Shocked Rolling Eyes



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1964 Dart GT
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merrymopar
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''


Joined: 26 Apr 2013
Posts: 46

Post subject: (Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:44 pm) Reply with quote

Danarchy wrote:
possible, simple, quick fix would be to swap the 1st & 2nd buttons with the "D" and "R" buttons ??? since they are not used nearly as much! Shocked Laughing Shocked Rolling Eyes


hmmmmm, well, those have both been acting bad too...but maybe...i don't really need the neutral anyway cause i have it bypassed and i can just go into park to get it to pop into neutral...
it's a concern that the issue is the plastic being old, the heater buttons have started doing it as well and i hardly use those (the heater has been stuck in 'on' since i bought her back from moto), so if anything it would be temporary.
also a concern is whether i would be able to find the button replacements and not have the same prob, unless they have been in cryo for the last 52 years. any help finding 'new' buttons is super appreciated, like parts number, can't find anything online.


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64ragtop
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 467
Location: South Austin, Texas

Post subject: (Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:36 am) Reply with quote

Just wondering if you tried the plastic repair stuff from Eastwood.

http://www.eastwood.com/rigid-plastic-repair-kits.html

Their description reads like it may be your cure. It's probably easier than finding 50+ year old buttons in usable condition.

BC



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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!
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merrymopar
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''


Joined: 26 Apr 2013
Posts: 46

Post subject: (Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:10 am) Reply with quote

64ragtop wrote:
Just wondering if you tried the plastic repair stuff from Eastwood.

http://www.eastwood.com/rigid-plastic-repair-kits.html

Their description reads like it may be your cure. It's probably easier than finding 50+ year old buttons in usable condition.

BC


thanks. $30 is way too steep for my budget though. i'm going to call wildcat back about what matt found for me, i did get a call back but didn't hear the call so i missed it. i assume that means he found ...something? and i will ask his opinion as well. i'm not too keen on finding new used buttons either...plastic deteriorates in about the same time regardless, i would think, and judging by the fact the heater buttons are going too and those don't get nearly the amount of action as the others....also the first to go was reverse, and that one is used way less than drive.

one of my prospective buyers had me take her to his mechanic and put her up on a lifter...there were a couple probs i knew about but forgot, differential seal broken and leaking grease and cv boot needs to be replaced but both those are old news and haven't given any signs of needing immediate attention yet, i've been driving her on and off 3 years now with them like that. he said the rusted floors were the worst prob because she's a unibody, but, it's not really that bad and i am not too worried about it. also he said my front left (facing) motor mount is hitting my fuel pump....now THAT i want to fix ASAP. that fuel pump is a BEAR to replace.

looks like i am holding on to her for a while longer. i am totally fine with that. it was a brutal decision to list her in the first place, i'll just keep her in passive sale mode. seems the biggest deterrent has been the right rear panel rust (exterior), she got dinged up pretty bad at some point on that side as well...looks like she had a half-assed repair job on that somewhere along the line but they didn't straighten her out very well.

honestly if i were to sell her i'd probably start saving for a vintage dodge van, since i'm a road dog and love to travel in something i can camp in.

anyway...buttons...i'm thinking the epoxy will be cheapest and should work just fine. i have to wait till i have the money for it but i should be back on the road by feb 3-5.


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64ragtop
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 467
Location: South Austin, Texas

Post subject: (Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:39 pm) Reply with quote

Well, how about this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-Kwik-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1391026814&sr=8-4&keywords=plast+aid

J-B-Weld is a brand that's been around for a long time. I've used their metal repair product, but did not know they had a plastic repair product. What I like about it (if their claims are true)
is that it sets up hard and can be drilled, etc. I think a "regular" epoxy would not set up hard, and that's what you need to rebuild the channel in the button so the tang will grip like it was designed to.

Heck, I've talked myself into trying the stuff - placing my order now.

BC



_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!
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merrymopar
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''


Joined: 26 Apr 2013
Posts: 46

Post subject: (Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:42 pm) Reply with quote

64ragtop wrote:
Well, how about this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-Kwik-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1391026814&sr=8-4&keywords=plast+aid

J-B-Weld is a brand that's been around for a long time. I've used their metal repair product, but did not know they had a plastic repair product. What I like about it (if their claims are true)
is that it sets up hard and can be drilled, etc. I think a "regular" epoxy would not set up hard, and that's what you need to rebuild the channel in the button so the tang will grip like it was designed to.

Heck, I've talked myself into trying the stuff - placing my order now.

BC


that looks good! and price is right...it says new from $3.80 at the bottom...?

i'm wondering if it is easy to mold after it sets...gotta get the 'bump' just right. if you were doing the job, how would you go about it?


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