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Just a note on my shifting issues with a A904
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killnine
TBI Slant 6


Joined: 03 Nov 2013
Posts: 141
Location: United States

Post subject: Just a note on my shifting issues with a A904 (Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:15 pm) Reply with quote

Just thought I would journal any progress I make on my shifting issues with my A904, in case it helps anyone else. So far I have driven the car a short distance and noticed it was delayed shifting into reverse, somewhat delayed into first and first to second, and sometimes just revved high when instead it should have shifted into second, so it seems to be slipping somewhat.

I made sure it had enough fluid, and the fluid in it seems pretty clean, but I will replace it soon enough.

First I thought I would make sure the kickdown linkage was adjusted properly. This is a 70 Plymouth Duster, with a 2 bbl 318 BBD carb. The kickdown linkage is the single rod V8 type. It seems to be at least properly setup, but there is slack in the linkage slot and it isn't up against the carb throttle rod at idle. So far I noticed that the rod was binding up and sitting way too close to the bracket that holds the two trans fluid lines to the bell housing. There is a corner on the bracket that rubs the rod and the rod can also get caught up on top of it, causing it to hang and not return forward, or causing it to not get full rearward travel. I bent that bracket back enough that the outermost line was no longer in it, and the corner was out of the way. I then zip tied the lines tight to the backside of the bracket and to each other, moving them away from the kickdown rod. Steel wire or something more resistant to heat would be a better long term solution. I removed the cotter pin and looked at the trans throttle lever swivel. It has a lock down screw/bolt and the rod seems to screw into it. It got cold and I quit for the day. Tomorrow I'll see about getting that set to where when the throttle lever is full forward and the kickdown linkage slot is pulled full forward the swivel is then locked down in position.



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1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

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killnine
TBI Slant 6


Joined: 03 Nov 2013
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Post subject: (Tue Jan 21, 2014 7:10 pm) Reply with quote

Fixed my shifting issues. Embarrassing but it just needed fluid. I had shifted it and driven it and checked the fluid level before but it showed pretty full. Today when I let it warm up for a long time, and really shifted it more and more and checked it while in neutral, it started showing its true level, and it needed about 3 quarts. Shifts pretty good now.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


Joined: 03 Nov 2013
Posts: 141
Location: United States

Post subject: kickdown (Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:10 pm) Reply with quote

I wanted to make sure the kickdown/throttle valve adjustment was correct, so I followed the procedure to loosen the lockdown screw and tighten with the throttle lever forward, but in this position the rod doesn't quite go all the swivel, so I pushed it into the spring enough that it just fit through, and locked it down. Hopefully this will be ok.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Location: United States

Post subject: (Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:59 pm) Reply with quote

Well, there was more to it than this, and a problem still exists.

I found that the carb throttle plates were not being allowed to open all the way. The accelerator cable metal shroud at the end was bottoming out on the shroud further down the cable. I made some adjustments and I think it's proper now, but I'm not 100% sure it's correct. One thing I'm worried about though is that the kickdown/throttle valve rod (single super six rod setup) is somehow too short. If the slotted linkage is resting against the carb accelerator stud at idle, it doesn't reach the throttle lever swivel enough to get locked down. It doesn't protrude all the way through the swivel and block. Therefore, I have to push the swivel and block into its spring enough that it is on the rod and the rod at least comes out the other side of the swivel a millimeter or so. When it's in this position and the throttle lever is full forward, the slotted linkage does not rest against the accelerator rod at idle. There's a good bit of space there.

Besides all of this fun, I seem to have some slipping/flareing going into drive at any point, and I still don't seem to notice any kickdown to 2nd if I floor it. Something is all wrong.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Post subject: (Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:12 pm) Reply with quote

Well, I rigged a hose clamp on the slotted linkage so it got the extra 3/4 inch travel it needed or so. Now it goes all the way to the end of the travel of the throttle lever, minus about an 1/8 inch. Since there's a bit of play at the beginning of the travel of the throttle lever I imagine this will be ok. It seems to kickdown at least sometimes. I'm not really used to driving a car like this, more used to a powerful 383/727 which is pretty clear when it is and isn't shifting. I don't even know what kind of seat of the pants feel to expect from this car, but at part throttle just driving normally, it shifts from 1-2 around 15 and 2-3 around 25 or so. When I floor it it sometimes downshifts, sometimes doesn't.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Post subject: throttle cable length (Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:50 pm) Reply with quote

Well now that I have my wife at home to help, she floored the pedal and it doesn't even come close to fully opening the carb's plates. WTF! The cable is too long because it's not the super six cable, but it seems like I'm missing something else here. There's not enough travel in the pedal. At rest it's where it's supposed to be at the carb.



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DusterIdiot
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Joined: 29 Oct 2002
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Post subject: 318 cable... (Sun Jan 26, 2014 4:24 pm) Reply with quote

If using the 1 barrel cable you have to get it clamped properly on the cable bracket and rig up a loop or put a bend in it, but sometimes this doesn't stay put, the more correct length acc. cable is one for a 1970-1974 A-body with a V-8 (318), if a quick and cheap junkyard one isn't available, you can still order one new.

-D.Idiot


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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Location: United States

Post subject: Re: 318 cable... (Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:29 pm) Reply with quote

DusterIdiot wrote:
If using the 1 barrel cable you have to get it clamped properly on the cable bracket and rig up a loop or put a bend in it, but sometimes this doesn't stay put, the more correct length acc. cable is one for a 1970-1974 A-body with a V-8 (318), if a quick and cheap junkyard one isn't available, you can still order one new.

-D.Idiot


Well the thing is there's plenty of room left in the cable movement for it to go full throttle. The pedal just runs out of travel. I tried temporarily rigging the cable closer to the pivot point on the carb, but it didn't make any difference, so it's something to do with the pedal. Maybe if I can get it to start out higher up somehow. I just now took it out to have a look at it.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Post subject: (Sun Jan 26, 2014 6:28 pm) Reply with quote

So I took the pedal out, and there's really nothing to adjust. I put it back in and took a look at where it was hitting. The very end of the pedal rod, where the rod attaches to the pedal hits a metal hump in the floor pan. The hump isn't very big, and it's more like a crease. It's factory, but I'm not sure why it's there, except that it maybe correctly limited the travel of the previous carb setup somehow. It seems like my solution might be to just pound the crap out of this crease/hump to get the proper additional pedal travel. Strange that I'm the only one I've been able to find with this issue though.





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killnine
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Post subject: (Sun Jan 26, 2014 7:32 pm) Reply with quote

Pounded the crease down and it's not enough. Now the bottom of the pedal plastic hits the floor. I'll just have to heat and beat the actual pedal rod so it is at less of an angle. Which means I need to borrow someone's big ass vice.



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DusterIdiot
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Post subject: quick thought... (Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:02 pm) Reply with quote

Quote:
Now the bottom of the pedal plastic hits the floor.


One item that I'm sure the other lurkers are wanting to ask...are you sure the cable isn't old and gotten stretched out?

-D.Idiot


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emsvitil
Supercharged


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Post subject: (Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:46 pm) Reply with quote

Can you make something to length the upper part where the cable attaches so you get more cable pull with a given angle change of the pedal?



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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes


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wjajr
Supercharged


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Post subject: (Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:47 pm) Reply with quote

My 67 gas pedal would not fully open throttle plates of 390 Holley 4V carb with Chrysler adapter. I assumed previous owner's home made floor pan replacement was the problem causing pedal to bottom out on floor that was not correct shape. I shimmed the lower attachment point of pedal bracket out from fire wall about 1/4th inch with a chunk of steel plate. This slight realignment of pedal enabled it to travel that little extra distance to the carpet and throttle plates now fully open.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Post subject: (Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:39 am) Reply with quote

emsvitil wrote:
Can you make something to length the upper part where the cable attaches so you get more cable pull with a given angle change of the pedal?


Unfortunately that would be too much fabrication for me. Totally possible, just not in the realm of my abilities where I'm at. It's hard enough for me to find somewhere to use as a 'vice' to bend the rod.



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killnine
TBI Slant 6


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Location: United States

Post subject: Re: quick thought... (Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:41 am) Reply with quote

DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
Now the bottom of the pedal plastic hits the floor.


One item that I'm sure the other lurkers are wanting to ask...are you sure the cable isn't old and gotten stretched out?

-D.Idiot


The length of the cable doesn't seem to affect this issue, at least not enough to be the cause. Of course if it were rubber banding while it was being pulled that would affect it, but it's not.



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