My turbocharger is probably too big for the engine. This has made it hard to get sufficient boost at stall to leave the starting line hard.

I have heard that some racers use a very short shot of nitrous just before launching the car, which spools the turbo much faster and creates impeller rpm that helps make boost, immediately. I am considering a fifty-horsepower, approximately 1-second shot of nitrous for improving my pitiful 60-foot times with this car. (1.91-sec.)

I don't know what else I need to make this work.

Any ideas? I would intiate the N20 with a pushbutton and include a Hobbs switch which would shut it off when the boost went past fifteen pounds.

Any ideas? Thanks for any information!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Nick Stamm did this on his turbo d150 truck - I think I ran 11's - I forget his handle on here...

I am sure he can get you some sneaky tips!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Bill,

Yes, most spool assist systems use a Hobbs switch to turn them off. Before doing that you might consider a smaller turbine housing.

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Joshua

Nick is Turboram. I tried to get a PM to him months ago and got no replies. I don't think he is on here much.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

He used nitrous to spool the turbo and proceeded to drive over the crankshaft. Be prepared for an expensive learning curve.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

does anyone have a Cell or Email for him?

He was trying to sell a 64ish 4 door drag car a while back.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

I will give Gerry at the G-Pop Shop a call on Monday to get an estimate on a new turbo with a smaller housing, to, hopefully, generate some boost at stall. I am not willing to put this motor at risk with regard to Slantzilla's comment about Turboram's experience. A new converter is a lot of work and is probably more expensive than a new turbocharger... but one way or another, I'll git-r-dun!

I appreciate all the replies!Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Unless you have some strange turbo you should be able to buy just the exhaust turbine housing.

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Joshua

No, it's a 4-bolt 66mm Turbonetics; pretty much generic, I think.

Thanks for your interest!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Greg, I have a cell number for him. I'll pm it to you.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I have an early (1964) crank. I want to increase the counterbore in the back of the crank to the larger (1968-up) size. Is there enough metal there on the flange to do that? And, what are the corrrect diameters for those bores? I have read 1-1/4" (early) and 1- 1/2" (late) for them, but am not certain.

Any info appreciated!


Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

1.57" torque converter recess for the early crank, 1.82" for the later according to the table. http://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm

Doug Dutra has posted a picture showing it done. The locating register gets thin, but that's okay.

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Joshua

I plan to hog one of mine out (machine shop) at some point and think it should be fine. I have a 62 mm Turbonetics and it is still a bit big with 2400 stall converter. I am trying to go to 3000 stall, which should get it on boost pretty fast.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thanks for the good info!

My machinist thinks he can make a cutting tool that can enlarge that hole with the crank in the car, so, O'm going to let him do that. My converter guy says that larger pilot hole will open up a huge variety/array of converters for me, so, it's worth doing.

Thanks a lot for all the good info!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Yeah, I tried to order a small pilot converter recently and Edge would not do it. Probably Midwest Converters would still do it. Best to use a late crank or open up an earlier one.

Lou

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