Is there a block such as the one in the link (only for Maxi fuses), that would be suitable for eliminating the 4 main fusible links in my truck. I am redoing 2 trucks and figure that there has to be some fairly easy way to do this. Both trucks are 85's with 60 Amp alternator systems on them. The 4 fusible links are 2 orange and 2 blues. If there is some easier way to do this I would appreciate the info. I just want rid of the links completely. The one truck has the main plug where the links come off of, with 2 of them cut off already. (butchered, yes)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5023/S ... Fuse_Block

Thanks for the help.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

See here

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I saw that thread, but I guess I am looking for a nice, compact way to eliminate all 4 of the fusible links without installing 4 separate inline maxi fuse holders. The link in the thread with all the fuse blocks looks to be the standard size fuses.

I think half of my problem with electrical stuff is there are 47 designations on 25 styles of fuses, and I don't know what they mean. that is why I ask dumb questions sometimes!

I do know if I go to the fuses I should use a slow blow type.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54176-9 ... in=keyword


Would that work for you? Fill it with breakers or slow-blow fuses?

I don't know Reed? It may? But I need someone with some smarts to guide me here. It uses the standard size fuse correct? Not the Maxi fuse, which is what I read that I should use.

Again, I don't understand needing the Maxi fuse if the Amp rating is the same on the standard fuse? Wouldn't it work as well?

Thanks

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stinger-SPD5 ... 3=&veh=sem

Here is what I was looking for. Do you think this would work?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You don't really need the maxifuses unless you're going above 35 amps.

The advantage of the regular blade fuses are that they're cheaper and more available.


I've used a dorman 85668. Holds 4, and you can stack them. (and they're cheap........)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

And if I am looking at it right the main feed for the Alternator comes back through one of the fusible links to the 4 into one connector. So that circuit has a 60 Amp alternator on it.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

There is a good reason why fusible links are picked for certain jobs rather than fuses. If you just replace a fuselink with a fuse, you're asking for problems, hassles, and trouble (not just one, but all three).

Er...why do you even want to do this, anyhow?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a truck with 2 of them cut off at the 4 way plug now, and figured I need to replace them anyway, and the fuses sure seem to be the easiest way to go, but maybe not. I went to 3 auto parts stores before I could even find any fuse link wire last time. I will just have order on line I suppose

If I retain the fuse links can they be put inside of the split wire loom. I didn't know if they needed to be out in the air since the coating melts when they blow.

Thanks

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

They need to be in the air to dissipate heat, and not cause melted insulation when sacrificed to ruin part of the wire loom. Copper conductor used in fusable link is a special alloy as is its insulation formulated to melt, not burn with a flame.

I would figure out why PO disconnected or cut factory fusable link, repair circuit as necessary and replace with correctly sized fusable link. Like Dan said, fuses can cause a lot of heartburn when retrofitted to a harness not designed for them.

To correctly select proper fuse size and type is complicated by type of device or circuit being protected. Then one has to redesign harness to make servicing fuses easily assessable and logical.


Sizing of link is four gages smaller than conductor being protected. Example: 10 gage conductor requires 14 gage link, or 16g conductor requires 20g link.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I've used these for small accessories... I would not use them for anything more than say a combined full load of 20-30 amps... they definitely will not hold up to the heat created by 50... been there redid that....

Fusible Links work better than do fuses when there are high in-rush currents. You can buy such a thing as a "slow-blow" fuse, but a fusible is easier to source.

Our Cummins-Dodge had aged the fusible links to the point that the one for the fuel cut hold-open solenoid pulled apart in BFE when I pulled over to take a leak. Literally, about here!
What I did to fix it when we got home as to use a terminal strip with enough positions for all of the fusible wires plus a couple extra. Power wire comes in to one position, fusible link in a 'U' from the position to one next to it, wire for that circuit exits from the other side and opposite of the Fusible Link. Then I made several extra of each size fusible link and screwed them down on the extra positions. Now if one fails it is a simple job to replace it, and the spares are right there. I thought that I had a picture of this, but I do not. If my words aren't enough ping me and I'll take a pic of the assembly.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

FWD Mopars were notorious for poorly maintained batteries &/or neglected
draws or charging issues causing hydrogen gas permeating the fusible
link bundle & corroding them. I used an old block of bakelite & some
copper strip to make a plug on fuse link block utilizing the type Mopar
started using on early '90's minivans etc. for My '86 Horizon.

Found the pic:

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite