I would go with the getting it captive, pulling it with a come-a-long, and whacking it with a hammer until it moves.

The hard part will be getting it anchored well enough to pull it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks guys. I have spent all day chainging the lower intake manifold gasket on my sister's 03 Bick Rendezvous. I haven't even gotten the lower intake manifold off yet. Working on new cars REALLY makes me miss working on a slant.

I have several ideas about how to beat/stretch this K frame. Riging it between my truck and van from the trailer hitches; chaining it to the legs of my cherry picker and hooking the bent hole through the hook, etc... If I can find a good deal on a used oxy/acetalene setup I would consider picking one up to add some heat to the situation. The last thing I want to do is fatigue the K frame metal.

I will be back into my sister's car tomorrow, probably all day, and this weekend is more work on my brother's 97 Neon. Gotta cange the torque converter solenoid switch and do a trans fluid change and band adjustment.

Once all THAT is done I can think about this K frame again.

Positive. The 74 Duster is all original with no front end damage and the 68 Dart I pulled this K frame from was totalled when it drove into a cement barrier. It is definitely the K frame and not the frame rails.

When using cables and chains, don't forget to throw some old blankets over them so if something lets lose, you won't have a uncontrolled whip.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Definitely.

The frame locates the lower control arm... Seems it's critical for alignment specs in the end.

I think you are wasting your time (And I have wasted a lot of time myself) unless you find someone with a good Oxy Acetylene torch with a large rose bud tip on it. Then you can get the thing red hot in a large area and then pull or press or beat to your hearts content. Like Dennis said if you have it anchored to the car and can get enough heat on it you may get it close to where it needs to be. Do you know any pipeliners? They would have a good torch and rosebud tip.

Good luck!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

True but no critical points in the part of the K member that is bent according to the pictures.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

Thanks for all the input! Unfortunately I don't know anybody in the trades (at least anyone who lives close enough to be of assistance) so any torching will be up to me.

I am aware of the alignment issues and I have been concerned wth that. However, as has been mentioned, I am fairly certain the lower control arm and torsion bar mounting areas were not damaged and all of the damage and banding was done at the base of the front right "leg" of the K frame.

We'll see how and if this gets done. I just had a bunch of work dumped on me (plus the emergency car repair work I am doing on my sister's Buick) so the time I had set aside for thi K frame is getting eaten up by other things.

Anyway, I do appreciate all suggestions! Thanks.

It's not like things were bent a foot out of place to see them by eye from a picture without any measuring reference.

Check the chassis manual. You know, that skinny one that accompanies the bigger body manual we all pour over. I know it has frame measurements... may have k-frame stuff in it too.

Hey, good idea Pierre! I will see if I have one for a late A body. I also have the good original K frame from the Duster to measure off of.

What's wrong with the original spool mount K member? Is it a V-8 K?

The bent K frame has been reinforced by Firm Feel. What I am trying to do is put the bent but reinforced K frame into my brother's Duster and save the Duster original K frame for another board member whose K frame has cracked.

But if that isn't possible then I will just use the original Duster K frame in the Duster and keep looking for another K frame for the board member.

I wonder if your frame rails or superstructure of the car is tweaked and that is why the modded K will not fit? I assume Firm Feel welds theirs on a jig with factory dimensions, or on an undamaged A-body car. You could take the car to a frame/body shop and they could measure the hole alighnment/positions on a frame rack? Otherwise, backyard way is to just oval out the holes until the K fits in there and hope the wheel alignment can be made to work OK.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Use the original K and let someone else have the headache of trying to straighten the bent one.

Obviously the bracing didn't keep it from bending.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.