Hi guys. I've been quiet for a bit I've been busy getting the pair of B Bodies together. I've got the new wheels on the Belvedere but in order to get it low enough I'm going to half to upgrade the front end as well as tighten up the suspension. I have to put a set of dropped spindles on the car to get it to sit where I want it to with the new wheels. Since I'm pulling the spindles I want to do everything that's involved in that area. I'm putting on the Wilwood 12.19 disc brake set up on the front along with tubular upper control arms, urethane bushings, sway bars and 1" torsion bars. I'm also going to lower the rear by at least 3". I had to slice the inside part of the wheel well where it rolls in about 5"above the lip
I'm considering some composite leaf springs that also lower the rear and some lowering blocks as needed but I will wait until I see if I need to do a rear first. For now I'm just throwing in lowering blocks on the stock springs. Pictures to follow. Any advice or input is, as always, appreciated

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan
1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp
Both slant 6 cars

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

What spindles did you use to lower the front? I'm curious to know if I can use a Dakota 97-90 spindle on my 63 Dart. If this is possible, I'll be able to upgrade to the LBP, and add disc brakes on the cheap (I'm a Dakota guy and have all of the parts). Does anyone out there know if this is possible, or has anyone tried to use the early Dakota suspension on Early A-bodies?

First part of your question: Early Dakota is front steer. I believe early A bodies are rear steer so you can't use the Dakota spindle.

Second part of your question: No, yes but with an F-body.

As of yet I haven't done anything but lower the car onto the bump stops. I'm trying to decide between drop spindles or an coil over front end.

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

I advise not driving around on the bump stops. Dangerous reaction to bumps, and more wear on bushings, etc. You can cut the bump stops down by about 3/4" and then leave that much as open play an that should be reasonable for the short term. I vote for drop spindles. Mopar stock susp is awesome. Coilovers will work but more expensive/complex, most likely and with varying results depending on the system.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I'm not driving on it right now. I'm playing with the stance to get the "tucked" look I'm after on the cheap while I figure out what will give me the best bang for my buck. I'm leaning heavily toward dropped spindles, tubular uca, boxed lowers, real stiff torsion bars (1.03 - 1.12) so I can run a half inch of the bump stops (with new 1/2"bump stops), sway bars and a firm feel level 3 steering box (mine is leaking) and some fast ratio idler and pitman arms (if I understand it correctly).

In the rear I'm thinking Hotchkiss leaf springs which are 1" lower to start with and lowering blocks.

This in itself is big money. The complete from t and rear suspensions are just out of my league price wis but I'm after a look. I want it low and tight and I want it to handle.

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

Low and tight and handling are not necessarily the easiest things to accomplish.

To handle you need controlled suspension travel.

Stiff bars and sway bars with limited travel will make it skate on rough roads.

On the bump stops will kill your ball joints fast.

I have the same suspension in my Desoto . There are no easy ways to go very much lower than stock. ....and still be able to go to A+W.

The rear is easier. I used sliders and reverse front hangers on my B Body springs . I use air shocks to control ride height with loads.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

If your going for handling (hard cornering), I found on my E-body 'Cuda that my biggest improvement came from installing EFI. The ability to power through and out of turns without uncovering the jets due to fuel slosh netted the biggest gains believe it or not. Just my 2 cents.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

With drop spindles, you will not need to be near the bump stops at all, esp if you cut them down a little. I agree that too low will be tough to get and have excellent handling properties. Low is mostly a "look and style" thing to me, on a streetable car, or car with modified stock suspension.

I have not tried drop spindles yet, but may do this on my 68 Dart. Some guys on Mopax (the Mopar handling/autoX/roadrace group) say that drop spindles may not give the best geometry for handling. Certainly they should be fine for spirited street driving.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thanks guys. Sandy, what do the sliders and reversing the hangers do for you?

Lou, I haven't heard about the geometry being worse. That's not good. I have heard that the complete front end are incredible. Unfortunately, it's not in the budget so I have to make the dropped spindles work with my wheels and give me a low enough stance if possible.

I've heard that the dropped spindles also drop some of the tie rod/front end pieces also and they may interfere with certain wheel sizes and offsets. I have to call the manufacturer to double check.

I'm looking to drop 2.5 more inches from where the car is currently sitting in the pictures. The dropped spindles and the 1/2" bump stops should provide that.

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

The sliders and reversed front hangers lower the rear a couple of inches without changing springs or geometry.