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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 11:24 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
DusterIdiot wrote:
I bet the tailpipe that serves that manifold half could use a front hanger at the fire wall to keep it isolated.... (like the 1974 A-body has....)


Go for it. I have seen and wrenched around many slant six vehicles that had a factory exhaust pipe support bracket between the pipe and the bellhousing on the trans.

That is an interesting development with the remflex gasket. I like them for the manifold to head pipe union, but I have always been leery of using them for the manifolds to head seal. I hope that fixes it for you!


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 Post subject: Back together... again.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:28 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Monday afternoon I pulled the stack and cleaned all the mating surfaces.. the remflex gasket was intact but showed signs that the rear homemade dutra/stock manifold had indeed leaked out the bottom and caused a leak at the intake manifold runners... which is not an easy spot to spray when checking for a vacuum leak...

Defying the 105 temperature outside this afternoon... I cleaned off all the manifold surfaces and in no time I got it all put back together and torqued down correctly (double and rechecked...and will be paranoid and do it again after I run it and heat cycle everything).

I also put a couple of improvised hangers in place to better secure the exhaust pipes at the block end... I did not really see a good way to make a kickstand for a shorty manifold and have it attach properly to the block (unlike the long ram manifolds that have better geometry for it).


I ran out of time this evening... tomorrow when I get home I will check all the hoses to the carb, and see if it will run (gonna be another warm day so that may shoot the calibration all the heck...)

I'm going to jack up the rear on stands and run it in gear for about 15 minutes... check the fasteners, let it cool then do another check...

Then another on the stands test run and dial the in gear rpm in better...

If all that works out... I have the rest of the week and next to shake it down and see if it stays reliable... I need to get the splice pieces welded so the exhaust isn't clamped in 3 places under the car...

if so then intent will be to participate at Woodburn.

Fingers crossed, we are over the major teething issues...

:roll:


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 Post subject: Next up...
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:57 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Everything bolted together correctly, fires up and runs OK....but wants to die when the choke pulls off after a proper warm up (and it's warm outside)...

I have no vacuum leaks... but noticed that I have a erratic miss in the front bank (1-2-3- easy to tell when they have their own pipe...LOL).. pulled the plugs and they all show slightly rich on the read... and uniform so I don't think it's ignition related.

Getting a little late, but I think tomorrow I will recheck the valve lash since this has been run a bit and they probably need to be looked at to make sure they aren't really loose or tight....which is what I suspect might be the case that 1-2 or 3 might have a tight one... if not... will have to go to tier 2...


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 Post subject: Wow!!!
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 12:52 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Got it fired up and found loose manifold bolts after heat cycle... tightened...

After choke pulled off it died again, and was hard to start....was warmed up so I static lashed the valves... once it fired up again it ran smoother (yeah, half the I's or E's were a bit out....)

This time around I found that one of the idle screws could be screwed in tight and no change to idle.... 1/2 the idle circuit is plugged or dead.

Pulled the carb... looked on the shelf and rebuilt the hyperpak Holley 8007 I used back when I had a 10:1 street Hpak and wanted mileage...

I wasn't quite calibrated for short ram use, but worked... idle screws work fine, but can't get it to idle in neutral or park below 1600 rpm.... but it does stay about 900-1100 rpm in gear (and pulls pretty hard, and it does make it through the factory shift points when run in D from 0 to 70 mph).

That should be good enough to drive and race with, but mileage and tune will not be where it should be....

Debating on what to do tomorrow...

Pull the Hpak 390 and I have 2 more 390's I can "Frankenstein" into one that might work right....


I still have a fairly new Holley 1848... which had been used for an upgrade for the street hyperpak to see if there was enough there to to say that 450 cfm was better than 390 , but you won't need 600 cfm for racing/performance.... I had it modded to have annular downleg boosters in the primaries and left standards in the secondary bores... the problem is this is a F**d model carb with bowl vent, no kick down lever on the throttle shaft, and no nipple for PCV....

...that being said...

:roll:


Holley's are modular and certain "families" of Holley's have similar bores that can swap parts .... in this case, the 450 shares the same bore as the 600 cfm not the 390.... so I will see if I can swap a PCV baseplate from a 600 cfm 1850, swap the primary bowl for a standard one with no vent... and see if that will run correctly and consistently....

Either way... I'm going to drive the crap out of it next week and go racing Saturday... after that, I can fine tune for the street...

:twisted:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7401
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Step 1. Install Edelbrock 500.AFB
Step 2 Drive car.

:D

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13008
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Ceej wrote:
Step 1. Install Edelbrock 500.AFB
Step 2 Drive car.

:D

CJ


:D

Good job DI!


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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:38 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Step 1. Install Edelbrock 500.AFB
Step 2 Drive car.


If I went that direction, I'd be more temped at the AVS instead for the daily driver... that being said I do have a couple of TQ's on the shelf... LOL

At the moment the Holley suffices for tuning purposes, and since the car really will go to Spencer and I can have parental controls on it and lock
out the secondaries....

:lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:01 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I agree on the AVS vs. AFB. The tuneability of the secondaries is much easier on the AVS. Someday I will get one for my truck.


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 Post subject: Bench test complete.
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:57 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Left the 8007 on it and decided to see how it would do on a 15+ minute jackstand test, before foolin' with the other carb.

It was cold blooded and took a few more pedal pumps to get it to light...
First stage fast idle started at 1600 initially and in a few seconds went to 1800rpm

2 minute fast idle warmup in P.
Shifted to N and left it for a few more seconds. 20" vacc.
Kept foot on brake pulled it into D. Drop to 10-1100 rpm, 15" vacc.
Since it's a no load test foot went off brake and it accelerated
Itself 1-2 at 15-18 mph, 2-3 about 30-33ish and stayed at 35...20" vacc.
'Drove' for 5 mins at 30-40mph, 20"vacc.
Moderate accel up to 55 mph and maintained 50-65 mph for 8 minutes 20" vacc. Have to redo the exhaust pipes, they are contacting somewhere and leave a regular harmonic vibration through the body...
Hard Brake to 30 mph, no stall, 18" on hard brake back to 20" vacc when let to roll.
HARD stop, dip to 13" vacc then settled in seconds back to 15" when rpm hit 0.

Drag/Resist test 1: Foot hard on brake bring RPM's up for 'launch', engine has enough torque at 1600 rpm that the rear wheels started to slip. Foot off Brake and Hard Stab of 'Go "pedal" and ran it to 80 mph on the clock...go there pretty fast without load or rolling resistance, let of pedal and let it coast uniformly deccelerated back to 30 mph in a few seconds and brake applied. No stall, Vacc when from 22" to 15" with brake fully applied in gear, downshifts function correctly.

Race test 2: Simulate Roll, foot off brake let accel itself, then 3/4 pedal... reached end of speedo (100mph), at 3800 rpm on clock, 20" vacc reading when speed is constant... backed off to 90 and let it wail for 2 minutes...let off pedal let coast, applied brake, put in Park...went back to 1600 rpm out of gear idle, 20' vacc.


Am going to go get a 37-119 for the 1848 and see how it does, typically if the carb is bit out of it's box (i.e. too small), then the throttle plates have to open more to get the proper idle characteristics...

Would ideally like to see the idle in P or N closer to 12-1400 rpm, and would like to see the in gear idle about 900 (I'd be OK with 1000 max).

Will be back to report after carb rebuild, mod and swap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:35 pm 
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Posts: 7401
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Actually, the AVS is Wasted on a slant. Your going to end up on the factory spring setting. Mild to Wild, the slant won't use more than the Out of the Box adjustment. Just put the AFB on there and save your money. A slant won't breath enough up top to use a change in spring.

Someday you'll give an AFB a try. You'll wonder why your were beating yourself up.

2¢

CJ

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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:20 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Someday you'll give an AFB a try. You'll wonder why your were beating yourself up.


Probably when Spencer takes over the car...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:56 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Pulled the carb, pulled the base plate and unhyperpak calibrated the secondaries... reset the Jetting to 53 primary, 54 secondary... left the plain spring in....

Fires up now, runs 1400 rpm P or N idle, drop to 950-1000 in gear idle, warm idle in gear now reads 16"...

15 minute Stand Test warranted:

2 minute warm up to full choke pull off, fast idle at 1600 rpm.

3 minute "drive" within the 25-40 mph range variably... vacc readings vary between 20-18" vacc

8 minute no load drive between 55 and 65 mph, with one 70 mph "pass".
Vacc reading was 20" typical, 22" when light coast form 65 to 55 occurred.

Coasted from 65 to 30 mph... no issue during draw down, registered 26" vacc...went back to 20 when doddling at 30 mph for 2 mins.

Let idle for a minute to see if any issues occurred...temp fine, oil fine, trans fluid hot in neutral = OK....

Got back in, ran Drag test 1, stabbed the go pedal and let it ride up the clock to 100 mph. Pulled strong from idle to 100, did not hit redline... let it coast to 30, then applied brake to 0. No issues.

Race Test 2, Stabbed the Go pedal and ran the engine to 4000 rpm redline...trans shifted firm but fine, quick run of the clock to 100 rpm, then pegged the speedo meter, stopped at 4000 rpm let run at that rpm for 1 minute... let it coast back down. Turned the key off at low idle and it dieselled once and died... so I might need to lower the idle a bit, just a tad bit more air than it needs.

Opened the hood and noticed I had an oily "line" under the front edge of the K-member... thought I had an oil leak... looked a bit closer and looks like the power steering pump didn't like the 100 mph/ redline run and puked... wiped it all off, and fire it back up and checked the level hot... it was a little high pulled some out via turkey baster and should be fine now. No other leaks I can find, yet... will see after shake down, will test drive tomorrow, and drive to work all week...

Currently has a full tank of gas, and washed it since it had a nice layer of dust from the farms next to me, and the smoke from the forest fires else where...

Tomorrow morning it will be show time... would like to get it by one of the weigh stations and see what it roughly weighs for reference.

More tomorrow.

Vrrrm....Vrrrmm...



:D


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 Post subject: Road Test
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 11:12 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Conducted a 3 leg staged road test... It didn't stall at the Mystery Spot... made the whole original test loop... was running fine, so I ran into town and no issues in varied traffic. Took a 20mile round trip to the closest weigh station...

Aspen with 3/4 tank of gas, spare, minimal tool box and pump jack... and a 280 lb driver... weighs 3750.... so about 350 lbs more than my 1976 Feather Duster with the same load out.

Made a sharp turn downtown and got a cyclical noise and getting off the line was a smidge more work... during the drive home I determined that it was the passenger side brakes must be sticking... so I am on out to pull the tire and drum and see what's going on....


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 Post subject: Round 2...
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:01 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Completed driving around town for a total of 120 miles since last fill up, 90 of the miles done today.
.
Runs great, no issues... found the sound is not brakes, I think it's the sure grip unit... seems to intermittently complain when turning corners and if turning while backing up... given it's a high mileage station wagon unit, over the winter I'll have my local diff shop do the bearings and check the shims/clutches... Changed frm the plain spring in the secondaries to the purple spring, so we'll see if that has better pickup.

Ran by my mom's and gave her a ride... she currently drives a newer chrysler that belonged to my uncle, and previously had a '68 valiant, she
wasn't sure what to say about this build and dual exhaust...but she said it sure does beat the chrysler in acceleration... LOL...

She also said that she still have a pile of my uncle's stuff laying around, and thought there was a carburator somewhere in the stash... after some digging, I now have a FREE, Edelbrock 1406 AFB, new in the box (never been opened)... so now I need to figure out what parts I need to retrofit it to be a 500 (since I got a $350 carb for $0, even $100 in parts and some elbow grease is a bargain), and I can plug and play after that...


:D


Last edited by DusterIdiot on Sun Aug 06, 2017 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 3:02 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13008
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Score! Sounds like a good day.

Your comment about the brakes reminded me of something- on by my old 78 Volare wagon and my old 76 Volare sedan the bolts holding passenger side brake caliper had a tendency to work themselves loose. One time on the wagon the bottom caliper bolt actually back itself all the way out and the caliper pivoted on the loosened top bolt, swung out, and lodged against the wheel and locked up the tire when I drove forwards. It would roll fine in reverse, but would lock up whenever I went forward. Keep an eye on those caliper bolts.


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