Can a missing lower starter ear be welded or brazed ?

Probably brazed, but that ear has to be parallel with its mate's corresponding ear where it is threaded so when bolted together and torqued down there are no torsional stress applied to joint lessening chance of future braze/local casting failure.

After rereading your post I'm now confused. Is the ear in question on starter, or part of block. I assumed it was broken from block otherwise one would just pick up a new starter and be done with it.

My old 1953 Ferguson tractor has one of its cast ears repaired with braze where block and transmission meet forming the structural spine of the machine. So far it has held up with front bucket forces applied. That repair was made long before I got the old girl.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I thought the starter bolted to the transmission/bell housing.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

The lower starter ear on the **block** is broken. There is no starter attached to this motor. Its a Craigs List '70s steel crank motor. The starter bolts to the bell housing, the 904 on this one.

I don't think aluminum can be brazed, however it can be welded.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Is there enough meat to drill some holes so you can drill and tap to bolt it on?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Tim,

I would not call that part of the block a starter ear. The starter doesn't bolt to the block so your chosen terminology confuses the issue. Yes, that lower portion of the block can be brazed, but you'll want to talk to someone who's experienced in repairing cast iron. If I were in your situation I'd probably leave the piece off and make sure the block-to-bellhousing brace is in place.

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Joshua

Yes block material can be welded/brazed but not completely unified like TIG or MIG would, it will have to be brazed with NiRod to have any real lasting effects... but to do so the base material will have to be brought up to temperature for it to work right... (aka the welding shop puts it and your broke part into an oven)...

Even at that, that ear below the starter takes the direct load and flex from the block and tranny assembly... a little is taken off because of the "wing" piece that attaches to the lower part of the bell and 2 bolts at the block... the joint can get stressed and break again over time.

The price for the repair is going to probably come to more than the engine is worth unless you can't find another donor.... (labor, time, and ni-rod isn't cheap like arc welding rod...)

Usually you only see this kind of repair happen on something that is hard to come by or really valuable (426 block, 1948 Lincoln Block, etc....)

x2

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I recently got three Valiants: a '65 Signet with 225, a '66 Signet convertible with 273 and a '66 Valiant 4 door. These cars were under water from a storm up to the top of the motors and have sat since then, I think since 2008 or so. The motors can turn over freely but I don't want to attempt to start them. These cars are in decent shape as far as the bodies. There is mud in the interiors, but I think they're pretty good cars for the price I paid ( not much). Two of these cars have 904s, the 4 door is a 3 speed on the column. The 4 door was sold as a parts car, but that was because the seller had no title to it, its in good shape as far as the body.

I thought a used motor might get the '65 going again. Right now I'm not expecting much from the used 225. I know that I will need to clean the 904, but I suspect that the 225 in the '65 is pretty worn and would want to rebuild it eventually.

If the engine spins why not try to start it? Change the oil, put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, crank it over with the plugs out to get oil through the system and see if she'll run. It's likely to use oil, but running is better than not in my book.

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Joshua