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 Post subject: Vapor lock
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 9:01 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:30 pm
Posts: 2
Car Model*: 64 dart gt convertable
I have a 64 Dart with 225. It seems to vapor lock once shut off, hard to restart or have to wait a long time. Car has had complete tune-up with new parts, new coil, carb has been rebuilt, and I even re-routed the fuel line in hopes to help alleviate vapor locking.


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 Post subject: Re: Vapor lock
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:21 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:10 am
Posts: 12
Location: Saylorsburg PA
Car Model*: 1964 Dodge Dart 170
Scottie,

The fuel line mod you have already done is a highly recommended solution to part of the problem you are having. Glad to hear you've already done it.

I would look at two things. Do you have the approx 3/8" insulator in between your carb and your intake manifold? Looks just like the gasket, but is much thicker of course. This helps insulate the carb from the heat retained in the intake manifold and helps prevent the percolation.

Second, I would verify that your exhaust manifold heat valve is not stuck closed. This is the valve in the base of the exhaust manifold that is controlled by a heat sensitive spring. It closes at low engine temp to heat the base of the intake manifold. This is designed to keep the raw fuel in the air mixture. When the base of the intake is hot, the fuel being sucked down and into the manifold can't condense there. Anyway, if that valve fails to open and close properly, you may experience problems. One of them being too much heat in the intake manifold causing the carb to boil. If that valve is stuck, lube it up good with Mopar rust penetrant. Search through the threads here and you will see where SSD and others recommend using it, and only it, to keep the shaft of that exhaust valve lubricated and free of carbon.
https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Genuine-Accessories-4318039AC-Penetrant/dp/B00BV4DBAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534025886&sr=8-1&keywords=mopar+rust+penetrant

Doug


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 Post subject: Re: Vapor lock
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 8:02 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:30 pm
Posts: 2
Car Model*: 64 dart gt convertable
Thank you for the input. I did check the heat valve and it is open. What I am thinking of doing now is replacing the Holley Carb with a carter - the fuel input line is not over the manifold. Also the temperature where I live has been above 100 and I know that has helped. I have also been suggested to go to a split manifold of which I do have a Dutra split manifold. Again thanks for your input.
I'll also try the riser for the carb
Thanks
Scottie


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 Post subject: Re: Vapor lock
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:20 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:50 am
Posts: 636
Location: Stevensville, ON
Car Model*:
If your car does not start with extended cranking after a hot soak, there is likely no fuel in the carburetor. Heat from the intake manifold would have boiled away the fuel in the fuel bowl. The fuel pump may not be able to supply fuel to the carburetor because heat from the block has vaporized the fuel in pump chamber. See Vapor Lock.

Rather than changing carburetors, I would add more insulation between the carburetor and the intake manifold. See Intake Manifold Heat.

Bring a couple of gallon jugs of water in your car. The next time your car vapor locks, try pouring water slowly over the fuel pump.

_________________
1965 Plymouth Barracuda,
225 engine, Quadrajet, HEI, Dutra Duals, 904 Torqueflite, 2.76:1 axle, Addco front bar
Rods & Relics - Fort Erie, ON / Collector Car Tech


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