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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:56 pm 
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Car Model*: 75 Duster
I just picked up a 1975 Plymouth Duster with a /6. On the way to pick it up the guy told me he ran the heater this morning and now believes there may be an issue with the Neutral Safety Switch because when you make right turns the car shuts off. He also thought it could be a bagel issue because the car had less than a 1/4 tank in it. I picked up the car and took it to a gas stations and had no problem in the turning at first. As we got further along the car stalled more and more frequently. We pulled off and the carb was smoking as soon as fuel was added like it was way too hot. We replaced the thermostat and limped it home but still stalled out 3 more times. I parked it turned the wheel left and right and it stayed running. Put the car in drive and turn right and the engine dies. Could the guy be correct and I need a new neutral safety switch? My buddy suggested changing out the water pump because it looks like the radiator isn’t cycling either (no pull in the hose and no pressure in it either). Also the radiator never gets hot we can pull the cap even while the car is/has been running. I was also thinking it may be electrical and there is too much pull with the power steering. Anyone have any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:16 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Is it just the engine dying or does all electric shut off. Could be a loose connection on the neutral safety switch/wire, but I wonder if it could also be a loose ammeter wire under the dash. I had that 'dies while turning' once and it was a loose ammeter wire. Not sure if this applies to a '75, but worth checking. You might check float level too? Does the car shut off and then come back on when you turn back the other way or re-center the steering while driving?

Best,
Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Don't see how it could be related to the neutral safety switch. That only will have effect on whether the starter engages.
Once the engine is running, the neutral safety switch does nothing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model*: '23 T-bucket
Charrlie_S wrote:
Don't see how it could be related to the neutral safety switch. That only will have effect on whether the starter engages.
Once the engine is running, the neutral safety switch does nothing.

*****************************************************************************************

Charrlie's right, to a point. Buuuttt....there's a conductor that still carries +12vdc down that way, in order to power the reverse lights. If the shift linkage or steering linkage is rubbing against that particular wire while in a drive position, it might be shorting to ground momentarily causing an excessive voltage drop that kills the ignition. I would think it would be blowing fuses or burning fusible links, though, so maybe I'm reaching a bit.

The cooling issue; Radiators don't "cycle"... the thermostat does that job. Just because you don't see active flow in the radiator doesn't mean there isn't any. Many times, it's hard to see it. It might be wise to get an infrared temp gun and measure the temp at the thermostat housing, or head surface, to see if it's actually getting too hot. Could there be a problem with the water pump? Sure, it's been known to happen that the impeller rots off of the pump shaft, but it's not too likely.
As far as the carb "smoking", that's actually somewhat common right after shutting off the car. A slight amount of gas will still be in the intake or plenum, and will evaporate quickly due to remaining heat. This will cause a fog of fuel vapors to drift up and out. The fact that you saw it suggests there's no air cleaner assembly on top of the carb. You should really remedy that.

Roger


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:39 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
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Location: Texas
Car Model*: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Not that it's your problem, but when I got my '64 Valiant it would stall nearly every time I turned left while driving. Sitting at idle, it never did, no matter how much I turned it. A carb rebuild fixed the problem and I didn't question the physics.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:38 pm 
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Location: IRWIN PA
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I had a bad coil one time that would cut out only on turns.

Replaced it then things were great.

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:29 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model*: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Take the air cleaner assembly off. Very firmly grasp the upper body of the carburetor, then TWIST it (horizontally) clockwise & counterclockwise. Look closely to see if the top of the carb is twisting with your hand, but the bottom part of the carb is staying stationary on the intake. In other words, the carb sections have come loose from each other. If loose, then you have a massive air leak through the loose body gaskets, causing the carb to "lean out" and die when going around turns. This is because the weight of that steel air cleaner assembly is too much for the 3 little screws that hold the bottom 1/3 of the carb body to the rest of the carb. The 3 screws are installed from the bottom into the pot-metal carb, and tend to loosen or even strip out the pot metal threads in the body. If that is your problem, you can TRY to Gently tighten those screws. If the carb body threads are stripped out, or nearly stripped out, I don't recommend going to the next size SAE screw, nor do I like Helicoiling the hole. BUT I do find cheating by jamming the next larger diameter METRIC screw in there works really well. :wink: I hope that is your problem, cuz it's a farily easy fix. Replace the carb-to- intake gasket (Felpro 60274) always, as it squishes (technical term) down and is usually not reliable to re-use. Let me know, because I'm curious. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 12:37 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
460fan5 wrote:
I just picked up a 1975 Plymouth Duster with a /6. On the way to pick it up the guy told me he ran the heater this morning and now believes there may be an issue with the Neutral Safety Switch because when you make right turns the car shuts off. He also thought it could be a bagel issue because the car had less than a 1/4 tank in it. I picked up the car and took it to a gas stations and had no problem in the turning at first. As we got further along the car stalled more and more frequently.


This is typical of a heat related electrical failure. (Ignition module, distributor pickup, coil, ballast resistor, etc.)

460fan5 wrote:
We pulled off and the carb was smoking as soon as fuel was added like it was way too hot.


As mentioned before, heat vaporizes fuel, and unless it is literally billowing vapor, all is normal here it seems.

460fan5 wrote:
We replaced the thermostat and limped it home but still stalled out 3 more times. I parked it turned the wheel left and right and it stayed running. Put the car in drive and turn right and the engine dies. Could the guy be correct and I need a new neutral safety switch?


Possible, though I find it highly unlikely.

460fan5 wrote:
My buddy suggested changing out the water pump because it looks like the radiator isn’t cycling either (no pull in the hose and no pressure in it either). Also the radiator never gets hot we can pull the cap even while the car is/has been running.


As mentioned earlier, the radiator has no part in the control of coolant cycling. What temperature thermostat did you put in? Did you make sure to "burp" the air out of the system to eliminate air pockets in the head?

460fan5 wrote:
I was also thinking it may be electrical and there is too much pull with the power steering. Anyone have any suggestions?


I think you are on the right track thinking it's electrical. Can you describe what you mean by "too much pull" with the power steering? Do you mean that the engine dies in gear at idle when you turn the wheel to full lock?

The only times I've had this issue has been when battery cables were shorting against something or a connection was being broken. One version happened in my 65 Dart: positive cable melted to the exhaust manifold and shorted out only on left turns until the terminal on the battery got so hot it melted off :shock:

On my 58 Plaza, poor connections and wires at the battery, solenoid, starter and a loose battery hold down all caused symptoms as you describe. Cleaned all that up, and haven't had an issue since.

I would verify that all connections are tight, including the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Make sure to double check what Lou stated earlier about the ammeter as well. I don't recall what year Chrysler went to shunt style ammeters, but it can't hurt to add it to the list.

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 3:43 pm 
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Location: SW Washington
Car Model*: 1954 Dodge C1-B8
I think your problem has a lot less to do with turning than it does returning to idle. How does the engine idle when fully warmed up? What's the RPM and vacuum?

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