I have run into a small roadblock with my intake installation.

I have the dual weber setup from Proline fuel. I also have an automatic transmission car. So needless to say I need some sort of kickdown linkage or what not.

What I currently have is the all rod version. When my gas pedal is depressed it pivots a bracket downwards, about 90 degrees of movement on the bracket. that in trun is connected to a rod that runs into the engine compartment and is connected to the throttle mechanism on the now single carburetor. Between the firewall and the carb is a bracket in the shape of a "V" with about 90 degrees on the inside of the "V". When the rod is turned (from depression of the accelerator pedal) turns this bracket downward and pushes a rod down that is attached to the bracket. The rod is attached to yet another bracket which connects to the tranny through a serious of more brackets and springs and rods.

Here is my problem. The throttle on the carbs needs about 2.5" inches of linear travel to reach full throttle, but the kickdown only moves about 1.5" inches at the most. I was thinking of attaching my new throttle cable to the bracket associated with the kickdown, but I would get half-throttle at best, the movement wouldnt be proportional.

Here are some of the potential solutions I have brainstormed:

1). Weld on an extension on the kickdown linkage at the bottom of the firewall so that the throttle cable can be attached and have 2.5" of travel so that it can move along the same ratio as the kickdown linkage.

2). Get a pedal assembly from a car that had a cable-actuated carburetor on a slant six, with automatic transmission and associated hardware for everything needed to convert.

I am leaning towards welding on an extension on the bracket and running it like that. It would be easier for me to fabricate something like that, than track down a ton of pieces. ALso since I will be changing to a manual transmission in the future the kickdown is not all that important to me.

ANy other ideas out there?
My car is a 1966 Dodge Dart, with 904 tranny. ANything would be helpful at this point. Thanks.

Caesar

manule valve body

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Another thing you can do is cross-drill the kickdown rod for a roll pin, then put a washer, spring, and sliding stud over the rod. Hold it in place with another roll pin. What this will do is allow the sliding stud (attached to your carb linkage) to slide over the rod against the spring when the limit of the kickdown lever is reached, so the rod won't bend. You can adjust the position of the rollpins and the length of the spring to alter when the kickdown rod begins to move, to optimise your shift points.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Caesar, youve got mail. If you can host that picture and post it here, I would be grateful. Good luck

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

maybe you can get a lokar cable linkage... I paid about $50 on ebay. is the same that works with the 727

you can avoid all the fab

I took the rod linkage adapter off a holley 1bbl and bolted it to the end of
a new threaded rod. Used spherical bearings mounted to a plate to
support the rod. Bolted a lever (length adjusted to give full throttle) on
the other end of the rod. Bolted a second threaded rod with spherical
bearings on each end to the lever and to the carb linkage. I plan to
get it all adjusted then braze the bolts to the lever and Holley adapter.
Do not want any sudden throttle disconnects!

Maybe this will give you some fab ideas.

<IMG SRC="http://members.cox.net/relic-lover/hpak_kick1.jpg" ALT="Hpak Kickdown">

thanks for the ideas. I have a few ideas, my cabrs definitely call for a cable, so I am going to convert me whole system to cables, I might be able to figure something out by this weekend, and then fab it next monday and wednesday.


I will take some pictures of the finished prodcut (close-ups for sure) and post them when I am done.


I dont think I can hose that picture that was sent to me, I think it has to be on the internet first. Thanks for that though.

Take care fellas and keep the ideas and and pictures coming, and by the way I am going to install everything before I solve the kickdown problem. Just going to wire it about half-way back to keep pressure in the lines at a good rate, but not permanently. I will figure this thing out, as many of you have before.

Thanks

Caesar

Keep us posted on what you come up with on this.
If you forward Chuck or myself some photos, we can get them hosted.

I think you are on the right track with getting a cable linkage set-up, that is the best way to go.
I am also working on a lay-out that will allow use of most of the rod type kick-down linkage but it will require welding a short lever off the rear carb link and also making-up a special kick-down rod leading from the carb lever to the "turn buckel" on the fire wall.
DD

Mr. Dutra (as I assume that last post was by you) thanks for the info. I am going to start off with having the kickdown wired half-open as per the recommendations on Chris's website, but I think where you are going with the weld-on piece on the rear carb linkage is heading in a good direction.

The thing I noticed is that the rod coming from the firewall can't be used unless it is braced somewhere. I was thinking of mounting a bracket that is used with cable systems on some V-8's with kickdown cables. Then just inverting the action on the bottom of the firewall where kickdown actually is. I am starting to think this is sort of like "more than one way to skin a cat" so there will be no right answer, a wrong one will just mean it wont work and try something else. But I will forward pictures to Mr. Dutra , but I am afraid I dont know who Chuck is. Is he the moderator of this forum?

either way I will figure it out somehow.

thanks.

Caesar

You are right about there being more then one way to make the kickdown work.
I told Chris at Pro-line that I would try to do a simple kickdown system that used as many of the exsisting part as possible, so far I have had to lengthen the adjustable top rod and make a short lever "addition" to come off the rear carb. (Much like the one shown on the front carb in the picture, just shorter and at a different position)

I will also try to get some pictures of this set-up over the weekend.
One other way is to just use a cable and make the needed brackets or spend the $$ for the Locker cable set-up / kit.
Take some pics of what you come up with and forward them to me for hosting. (I can stick them on my site, dutra.org)
BTW, Chuck is the webmaster of this site, he can also host any images people send him. (Chuck will host them on slantsix.org)
DD