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 Post subject: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:35 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:29 am
Posts: 3
Location: Pori, Finland
Car Model:
Is there a regulator in gauge of 65 Dart? Or is it possible that it´s working without it? By the way what is that silver round thing back of the gauge in Early A-body Instrument Gauge Problems article of Slantsix.org? I dont have it in my gauges? I mean this picture : Image[/b]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:47 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2945
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
The gauge just left of center, above the pin connector, has 3 terminals... that gauge has a 5v regulator built into it. If the regulator is bad you will have to find a way to bypass it and put on an external regulator or replace the gauge.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:49 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2478
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I believe that can is a radio suppression capacitor. The instrument voltage regulator (IVR) is rectangular, and I don't see it in your photo.
Sorry, I don't have the photos of my '64 Valiant gauge cluster handy. I did take a few when I switched to the solid-state regulator.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 9:22 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:29 am
Posts: 3
Location: Pori, Finland
Car Model:
im not sure is the regulator bad because wires weren´t even connected to fuel gauge when i bought this car. And the fuel tank sensor was broken. Now i have a working fueltank sensor and i just have to try to connect it to fuelgauge. Do i have to connect the cable from the fueltank sensor straight in to the connector of fuel gauge? And where does the sensor take ground?

Sorry about my bad english. Im from Finland.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:48 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2945
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
The can is a capacitor that takes noise out of the 12 v feed. The regulator is internal to the gauge with 3 terminals. On a 62 that is the Temp gauge but I understand that it is the fuel gauge on some models. 12v comes from the pin connector into the left (in the picture) terminal of the gauge , 5v comes out of the center terminal of the gauge... the one with the clip looking retainer on it. If you'll follow the trace from that terminal it goes over to the other gauge to feed 5v to that gauge as well. Ground is through the sending units. Early A-bodies had no external cluster regulator, it was built in to one of the gauges. I believe that changed somewhere around 1967.

I wouldn't worry too much about your English; I wouldn't do nearly as well in your country. I guess it's fortunate that my native language has become somewhat of a universal trade language but I still admire anyone who can intelligently converse in more than one language.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject: 5V regulator
PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:12 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
Car Model:
The regulator inside the gas gauge is difficult to fix, but easy to disable - then you can use an external regulator like the later models. I've used a LM7805 electronic regulator with good results - the gauges warm up slower than the stock point-type, but it has built in short protection.


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 Post subject: Re: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 9:27 am 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 8:38 am
Posts: 1
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda Valiant x 4 + 1 65 Val Custom 200
Hi Hoping someone can help.

I took my dash out to work on the fuel gauge. On the circuit board there was no wire connected to the "S" post. I've looked at the electrical diagrams, but can't figure out what wire connects to right side of the fuel gauge marked "S"

I've attached a picture.


Attachments:
File comment: What wire connects to the nut on the right side of the fuel gauge?
65-Barracuda-Valiant-Circuit-Board.jpg
65-Barracuda-Valiant-Circuit-Board.jpg [ 175.52 KiB | Viewed 3493 times ]

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2 x '65 Barracuda Valiants ((Slant 225), 1 x '65 Valiant Custom 200 - (Slant 170)
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 Post subject: Re: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 10:46 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23748
Location: North America
Car Model:
The 7805-based hack works, sort of, but is not wise. Get this IVR3 instead, and install it per these and these instructions.

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 Post subject: Re: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 5:52 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7721
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
I have the Part Dan Recommends in my 64 dart. I opened the VR contacts in the Fuel Gauge so they never touch.. Has been in there 3 years no problems so far.


Greg

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 Post subject: Re: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2020 10:25 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1343
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
SlantSixDan wrote:
The 7805-based hack works, sort of, but is not wise. Get this IVR3 instead, and install it per these and these instructions.

Why is it not wise? As an electrical engineer I see no problems and have run with the 7805 for probably 10 years or more. The IVR3 you referenced costs $50 vs. less than $5 for the 7805, which will probably out-last the car if it has a proper heat sink.

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 Post subject: Re: Dart -65 gauge
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 6:42 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23748
Location: North America
Car Model:
Unwise for the same reason driving around with a single-pot master cylinder is unwise, or without a seatbelt: you can get away with it for a long time until you suddenly don't, then you might have time to wish you had chosen otherwise before very bad things happen. If a homemade 7805-based setup loses its ground, the gauges will quick-fry to a crackling, crunchy crisp. And even if it manages to keep its ground, that setup draws a lot of power and puts off a lot of heat.

I have no affiliation with the R/T Engineering people and it's no skin off my knuckle (nor any of my business or concern) what anyone chooses to do with their own instrument cluster, but there's a reason why the thoughtfully-designed, failsafe part costs more than the electronic hackquivalent of baling wire and chewing gum.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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