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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2019 10:07 pm
Posts: 6
Car Model: VALIANT SIGNET
Hello everyone/anyone? As this thread seems dormant, I'm new to slantsix.org and grateful for the useful knowledge i find here. Here's my dilemma, (forgive me if I missed the answer elsewhere in this thread) I will soon be replacing the exhaust manifold with an aftermarket(73..style choke mount) on my 68 w/1920 holley. Which choke kit is my best option 1231 or 1234?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 10:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Match the choke kit to the carburetor—you'll need a № 1231.

See here for manifold selection info.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2019 10:07 pm
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Car Model: VALIANT SIGNET
Thanks for the clarification. I've already ordered & received the manifold from rollingautomotive, it looks good so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it works out okay.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 2:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:50 am
Posts: 5
Location: Central, FL
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Signet Convertible
After fooling with a manual choke cable for a year, I decided to use the 1232 choke on my hard starting Valiant. Unfortunately for me, the vacuum pull-off is mounted on the side of my 9447 Carter, blocking the rod from the choke assembly when mounted on manifold location. :(
I made a plate to move it slightly back and toward the head, and bent the mounting bracket to lean slightly forward. This gave me a straight shot to attach the rod, but the angle didn't allow full rotation of the butterfly.
I reversed the plate I made, moving the choke assembly in front of the vacuum pull-off.
Next I bent the actuator rod to attach to the carb, making sure it moved freely. I also placed a stainless washer on the rod where it goes into the actuator body to keep it moving in a straight axis, using new speed/push nuts to keep the rod in line with the actuator body.
Works great, car starts immediately! :D


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Last edited by BitsaValiant on Tue Dec 14, 2021 4:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2021 2:37 pm 
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Good work getting it working. That № 1239 is intended for 383-440 motors; you might have had less work on your hands with a № 1232, which has a bracket configuration intended for use on the Slant-6 with a 2-barrel carb.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 4:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:50 am
Posts: 5
Location: Central, FL
Car Model: 1964 Valiant Signet Convertible
SlantSixDan wrote:
Good work getting it working. That № 1239 is intended for 383-440 motors; you might have had less work on your hands with a № 1232, which has a bracket configuration intended for use on the Slant-6 with a 2-barrel carb.

Checked my receipt, I did use the 1232, it wouldn't clear the side mounted vac pull off on my carb.
I did see the pics posted earlier, but didn't notice that carb has a rear mounted vac pull off.
at any rate, it works great!
After posting this on FABO I got this from 67Dart273, it's just simple & brilliant!:
"Well I used to have to "make" (and use) shall we say, "intelligent" manual choke

Example was a QJ I had on the SB (TQ manifold) swapped in the old Landcruiser. I used two "cable stops" you know the set screw devices. Rigged one so the cable slid through it with a short length of wire out the other end, and with a small spring on the end. You put your foot down some as if you were "setting" the choke, and pulled the cable. This closed the choke, but the spring on the cable sort of mimicked the spring in the choke stat--if it had been there. This left some movement for the pull-off to work while the spring kept some tension on. This mess worked VERY well down to ?? 15F or so. Below that required a little more throttle pumps etc, but I don't remember a time that I flooded it, or LOL, had to shovell the snow off the hood to get the old girl running. I had two heaters in that thing, and sometimes THAT was not enough.

In my San Diego/ Navy/ NAS Miramar days, I never ran a choke at all."

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