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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
Car Model:
Not good.


Did you try to order direct from Randy Rymal restorations?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:44 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
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I e-mailed Randy Rymal last night.
He responded today and said he has them for $55 shipped.
See SSD's original post for the link.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: Seattle,WA
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yeah, i e-mailed randy and i have one on the way!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:42 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:37 am
Posts: 405
Location: Long Beach, CA
Car Model:
In case anyone's wondering, BFIC (For Carbs Only) has them in stock now, plenty of the different /6 ones.

I went down there on Friday and talked to them, a very nice and knowledgeable guy named Carlos mans the front desk.

He also rebuilds our carbs, although he says that he has not seen a good Carter BBS core in many years - he has a small stash of various cores that can be used. I talked to him about rebushing the throttle shaft on mine, and he took a look at it to see if it could be salvaged. The top was very badly warped, and he said that it's a very common problem with them, with no fix.

Rebuild carb is $149 with a good core or add $50 for a core. He knows them backwards and forwards, so I'd think you would get a good solid carb from them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:27 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7629
Location: SW Washington
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, 1954 Dodge C1-B8
I e-mailed 8/3/08 the following to Randy asking about the thermostatic modulator included in his electric choke kits:

I saw on the SlantSix.org message board that you sell electric choke kits that have a heat sensor on the ground side of the choke electrical circuit. Do you sell that sensor by itself? I have an electric choke Holley 4-bbl and have never been happy with the choke. It seems to open too fast in cold weather and come on when not needed in warm weather. I think temperature modulating the choke would help.

Sincerely,

Joshua Skinner

He replied: Sorry, the sensors are specific to our electric chokes.

So I then wrote on 8/4/08: So you won't sell me one to experiment with?

Joshua

I haven't yet received a reply.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23548
Location: North America
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That's odd. But perhaps it might've been better to say "I have a #1232 choke kit on my '78 Plymouth Volaré with 225 and 2bbl carb. My thermal sensor burned out (I overheated the engine; it got cooked); will you please sell me a replacement?".

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:04 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:01 pm
Posts: 506
Location: Taneytown, MD
Car Model:
I bought the EXACT same thing from NAPA 1 1/2 years ago! I remember it costing $65 for a '79 bbd.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:33 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:35 am
Posts: 30
Location: West Michigan
Car Model:
SlantSixDan wrote:
Heat sensor works well for me when bolted to the rearmost of the two threaded bosses atop the cylinder head...right where the factory choke modulator used to be. Power comes from ignition-on +12v (make sure to take it from the upstream side of the ballast resistor, not the downstream side).


Dan, I puchased a #1231 kit for my 1 bbl and had my mechanic install it with a different exhaust manifold, as mine was cracked. The mechanic states it is wired backwards as the choke is wide open when starting the engine when it is cold and slowly closes as the engine warms up. Did the mechanic wire it to the wrong side of the ballast resistor? OR, maybe the choke was put on backwards? I called CarbsOnly and he said they had never had that problem on their chokes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:08 pm 
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It's not wired backwards. Sounds like the choke coil spring is either installed backwards (remove the choke cover, remove the coil spring, flip it over, reassemble, reinstall, and readjust) or the choke coil spring is installed the right way round but it is way out of adjustment (engine cold, loosen the choke cover retainer, rotate the cover in the "Rich" direction until the choke plate closes, then a little further to provide some preload, try about 3 hash marks towards the "Rich" direction, then tighten the retainer and adjust from there).

I'd check the initial adjustment first; if your mechanic could look at this situation and make a clueless evaluation like "the choke is wired backwards", he probably didn't catch on to the need to set the initial spring tension.

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 Post subject: Backward choke spring
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:10 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 6:38 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Seattle
Car Model:
This happened to me! And yes, the choke spring was installed backward. Easy to remedy and now works great.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:40 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:37 am
Posts: 405
Location: Long Beach, CA
Car Model:
Good thing I found this thread again - I finally got around to installing my electric choke (had to replace a leaking exhaust gasket first) and of course the spring was backwards. It was driving me crazy until I found others' comments.

I bought the correct one for the early engines, though I have no idea which exhaust manifold I currently have - it has ribs and the 'half-cut-away' choke pocket. I don't think that matters, since I do have the correct early Carter carb and non-egr intake manifold.

Anyway, I flipped the spring though it's not as easy as it appears - the center is pinched by the disk and I had to open the slot slightly to remove it.

When the engine cools down I'll check it for function but it should work now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:46 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:37 am
Posts: 405
Location: Long Beach, CA
Car Model:
Oh yeah, I had to slot the screw holes in to match my manifold. Again a minor thing, but something to be aware of.

Previously the car had one of those electric-assist chokes that someone added. It sucked.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:29 am 
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robertob wrote:
I bought the correct one for the early engines, though I have no idea which exhaust manifold I currently have - it has ribs and the 'half-cut-away' choke pocket. I don't think that matters


But it does. Your exhaust manifold is a '73+ type, which explains why you had to redrill/slot the mounting holes for the early choke to fit.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:37 am
Posts: 405
Location: Long Beach, CA
Car Model:
i know that - I was referring to the 'reverse' action of the electric choke. No 1bbl manifold that I am aware of will place the choke in a position where it would work backwards. I'm not sure why they shipped it that way, unless there is a linkage issue. Looking at the choke, I suppose it might work correctly if the linkage were shortened so that it uses the upper half of the spring arc, but i doubt it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23548
Location: North America
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Oh, yeah, you're right on that - backwards is backwards, and they installed the coils backwards for some reason.

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