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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2020 5:11 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Completed another item on the D150 do list. I had installed automatic door locks back in 2012, they are handy, beats having to reach across the cab to lock or unlock the passenger side door. Problem is that this was the third time that the clamps that were supplied with the door lock kit worked loose. Making the door auto door locks non functional. Every time the door would be closed the clamps would get a jar and I think that is what would knock them loose, the up an down motion of the clamp when the door lock is operated is not severe.

I considered changing the philips head set screws to allen heads to be able to apply more tightening force and also putting a drop of loctite on the threads. Also I believe I needed to put a larger access hole in to able to get to the clamp and really tighten the fastners

Then I had an idea, how about instead of a static friction clamp like a set screw clamp, perhaps an elastic compression clamp would stay in place better. I tested a piece of heat shrink tubing. The same heat shrink tubing normally used to insulate electrical joints. I used it to hold two wire sections in a parallel clamp. It had really strong hold in an up and down motion. The heat shrink tubing that I used is the Marine grade variety, it lets out an epoxy sealant internally when heated.

So that is how I attached the auto door lock actuator rod to the OE door lock push button rod. The two actuator wires over lap by a little over an inch and the heat shrink tubing is another inch on each end.

I believe this is a good fix


Attachments:
door lock clamps.jpg
door lock clamps.jpg [ 61.44 KiB | Viewed 2586 times ]
door lock rods.jpg
door lock rods.jpg [ 55.08 KiB | Viewed 2586 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 10:33 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Pulled the motor from the 83 D150 yesterday. I had changed out the clutch - pressure plate and TOB in the summer of 2017 due to the plastic TOB housing breaking apart.
As time and use went on I had to adjust the clutch several times to get the the transmission to shift properly. It would shift fine the first couple of miles, then as things warmed up it would be more and more difficult to shift with out some gear crashing, So I would run the TOB in some more and it would be ok for a while. Finally got to the point where the TOB was running on the clutch plate fingers.
I know that is not right.
With the clutch plate mounted on the flywheel I measured and found, from high to low a .260 difference among the clutch plate fingers, measuring from the shinny point of the clutch finger where the TOB runs to the OD of the splined center section of the disk.
I can see a visual difference in the heights of the adjusting nuts - studs that are used to set the finger height. They are certainly not finger loose, but it appears that they are not locked in place and are changing while in use.

So I am clutch package shopping again.


Attachments:
D150 engine pull.jpg
D150 engine pull.jpg [ 125.64 KiB | Viewed 2368 times ]
File comment: measuring finger height
D150 clutch finger height.jpg
D150 clutch finger height.jpg [ 81.54 KiB | Viewed 2368 times ]
File comment: difference in finger height adjusting studs
D150 clutch finger height adjusting.jpg
D150 clutch finger height adjusting.jpg [ 79.39 KiB | Viewed 2369 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 10:41 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: SW Washington
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I've had the clutch fingers go out of adjustment myself. We're at a point in time where 3-finger Borg and Beck clutches are severely dated. There used to be clutch and brake rebuilders all over who understood this stuff, but not so any more. A good friend was given a clutch cover fixture for adjusting clutch covers like the B&B. If I had the fixture I'd be tempted to fix something like this myself, but it's less labor to buy a new kit with cover, check the finger height and spot weld the adjusters so they stay put.

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Joshua


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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2368
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
well brand wise "Perfection" is far far from it. Don't buy theirs. and yeah the plastic throwout is ridiculous, Somebody had their head up You know where when they decided to change that to plastic.....I went thru 2 "perfection" clutches in my 93 Dakota in 5k miles....

the 3rd time I went with a LuK, and didn't have a bit of issue for the next 67k miles til the truck was wrecked.... (wreck had nothing to do with the clutch) and both times the issue with the "perfection" setup was the throw out bearing..... the parts store wouldn't just swap that out, had to remove and take all 3 pieces back, change all 3 each time. after the 2nd time (and I pleaded them to get me a different brand, that was "all" they had access to, supposedly) This was from a Federated auto parts store. The LuK came from Rock Auto. and was even a lil cheaper too, from Rock than the other brand was from Federated.
The Perfection brand clutches had in big ol' letters "made in China" on the box..... I asked for something else before I ever left the parts counter the 1st time. After strike 2, I got a refund.....


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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:07 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
working to make everything as good as it can be, among other things went through the bell housing bore alignment.
I have a magnetic base, but I always bump or move it when removing the bell housing for a recheck. Made the fixture shown in the photos below,
rigid enough to be repeatable, does not get in the way of removing - reinstalling the bell housing.

I put in a set of the robbmc dowels, these are nice pieces easy to work with.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

I have the bell housing bore 0 to 0 East to West and .005 to .005 North and South.


Attachments:
File comment: Bell Housing Bore
Bell Housing.jpg
Bell Housing.jpg [ 66.74 KiB | Viewed 2309 times ]
File comment: TIR gauge
TIR gauge.jpg
TIR gauge.jpg [ 61.86 KiB | Viewed 2309 times ]
File comment: Fixture
TIR fixture.jpg
TIR fixture.jpg [ 99.32 KiB | Viewed 2309 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 5:53 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 15359
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
I like your fixture, John. Thanks for sharing.

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 7:26 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7714
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Good Stuff. Magnets are fussy, Never hold enough when needed.. pick up too much welding and grinding trash when not needed.

:D

Greg

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:45 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
thanks, and the best part is, the fixture was made from junk that was laying around the garage.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8


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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:45 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7714
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
DadTruck wrote:
thanks, and the best part is, the fixture was made from junk that was laying around the garage.



I do that all of the time... Like ruster is mostly junk from the garage.. and the Oil Pan I just built... Recycled roofs.


Greg

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 4:58 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
I had pulled the motor to address a clutch issue, but since it was out,,,
I am going to install the NOS Mopar Purple Shaft P4529340 Hydraulic cam that I had picked up at the ICH swap meet a few years ago.
The current cam is a 256 / 250 advertized duration the cam to be installed is a 240 / 240 advertized duration so I know that I am going smaller.
The smaller cam gives up some HP and TQ at higher RPM levels, but since I have the 68 Barracuda available, I don't plan to have the 83 D150 racing on a track.
The additional torque off idle and up to highway speeds looks promising to me.

I have the motor down and cleaned up, the plan is to do the cam swap tomorrow.


Attachments:
cam chart D150.jpg
cam chart D150.jpg [ 57.84 KiB | Viewed 2200 times ]
D150 SS 41421.jpg
D150 SS 41421.jpg [ 78.74 KiB | Viewed 2202 times ]

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8
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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:50 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
The cam swap is complete, finished up the degree wheel business today.
The ICL is set on 102

I am not doing any other engine work so the static compression stays at 8.49

However going to a smaller cam did increase the dynamic compression about half a point.
Using the UEM dynamic compression ratio calculator with the previous cam the dynamic compression ration was 7.537
With the new cam the dynamic compression ratio is 7.979


Attachments:
83 D150 degree wheel.jpg
83 D150 degree wheel.jpg [ 103.2 KiB | Viewed 2148 times ]

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8
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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 5:44 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
The big project today was cleaning up the intake and exhaust valves. I should have got a before photo, the intake valves had a lot of coking on the back side. I had positive valve seals on the intakes, but it appears that those seals were leaking. I had umbrellas on the exhaust valves and they had some carbon on them but were fairly clean.

I soaked the valves in Berryman carb cleaner over night to soften the carbon build up, then the valves made a quick trip through the blast cabinet.
After that I ran the valves for a bout an hour in the vibratory mill with the abrasive hard plastic pyramid media.
Then ran the valves in the vibratory mill with crushed walnut shells for about 4 hours to polish them.

they look like new


Attachments:
D150 Valves.jpg
D150 Valves.jpg [ 110.97 KiB | Viewed 1980 times ]

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8
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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2021 11:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7714
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Looks Good.

I just wire wheeled my Junkyard 318 Valves on the LA engine I did over the winter, Then Lapped them on seats before installing.

You are much more thorough!

Greg

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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:19 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2368
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
I have my valve grinder apart, both motors are in the electric motor shop. The cords are beyond shot, the grind stone spinning one needs bearings, the valve stem spinning motor started letting a little smoke out. We (the motor shop guy and me,) think it's just years of oil and grinding/shavings accumulated, plus dust from storage/// and a good teardown and clean up will take care of that.
It's an old Black and Decker from the 50's / maybe even 40s. But for the price I got it for, plus the seat grinding motor, stones, and pilots that came with it makes it worth putting some into it.
Once it's done and back together, I'll play around with it.
I've used one sporadically over the years, always "someone else's". But this one found me, got a phone call one day, asking if I wanted/"could use" one, a couple of hours later it was dropped off. I wish a tire machine would find me, the same way


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 Post subject: Re: 83 D-150 Project
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2021 5:43 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3561
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
the replacement positive valve seals arrived today, so I will re assemble the cylinder head tomorrow.
The plan is to get the engine back into the D150 mid next week.

Shown below is the oil pump drive gear from the 83 D150 and setting next to it is a new never ran oil pump drive gear.
The pump is a D Dutra ported pump and the gear that came installed on it is one of Doug's hardened gears.
This pump has a few miles short of 50K miles on it and it was running against the helical drive in the OE 83 D150 cam shaft.

When I had that cam shaft re ground it already had 100K miles on it prior to the regrind so the cam shaft drive has around 150 K miles on it.

The oil pump gear has obvious shinny spots where the two gears meshed together but from my visual observation and visual comparison to a new un used gear the oil pump drive gears shows minimal wear. Hopefully it stays that way running against the NOS Mopar Performance cam shaft


Attachments:
D150 oil pump drive gear 1.jpg
D150 oil pump drive gear 1.jpg [ 66.44 KiB | Viewed 1839 times ]
D150 oil pump drive gear 2.jpg
D150 oil pump drive gear 2.jpg [ 66.96 KiB | Viewed 1839 times ]

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8
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