Factory Chrysler truck apps used 10" PP, but they are not good for performance and have cutouts around the bolt holes that reduce strength. clutchnet.com in LA has sourced HD clutches and PPs for the Slant to Ron Heath in Maine and others. Give them a shot if you want a high torque rated clutch. The Ford pattern should be the same for some years, but I can't recall which.

I have a 9" McLeod B&B with 11 yrs of abuse and ~300ft-lbs and still works great. Apparently I bought the last one, about 10 yrs ago...

Best,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Thanks Lou, guess I'm going to have to call them as there's no listing for slants that I can find.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Yes, telephone is usually the best way with suppliers, I find.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Took several tries but I finally got thru to someone at clutchnet early last week. Made my plea and was told that he'd have to look into it. Have not heard anything back.

Engine is in the shop now and they're waiting on the PP to check balance. Made the decision to move to the GM 2.2L's clutch assembly & ordered a CF DF II kit. I'll have to drill, tap, and counter-bore the flywheel for the slightly different PP bolt pattern, but at least then it's all one application for the disc & PP.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

I had to relocate a B&B 9 1/4 pressure plate on a flywheel due to metal transfer issues. It is very difficult to get the new pattern centered perfectly so you need to balance the pressure plate and flywheel together. You need to mark the pressure plate and flywheel so it always goes back the same way.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

I have thought about that. First thought was to turn a disc that would locate the ID of the PP's shoe (if it is a machined surface) and then have a spud on it to pick up some ID surface on the flywheel. Then it's a simple transfer punch operation. I'd likely drill one and then its opposing before doing any more to restrict rotation.

A friend offered up his mill with a DRO, could just dial off the locations after finding center.

Final thought was realizing that I have a rotary table for my non-DRO equipped mill. Could find center, dial off the BC's radius, set the table to zero, and then radially dial off the locations.

Not sure which method I'll use yet, but one of those options is the likely route forward.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Flywheel now has the BC for a '94 2.2L S-10 pressure plate and is neutral balanced, then the PP was balanced while bolted on the FW. They are marked for orientation relative to each other.

Bigger news is that the rebuilt engine is here! Working on cleaning up & painting engine mount bits. Hope to stab it in this weekend. We'll see what life does to those plans......

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

New engine is in, working on attaching stuff. Think I missed on the annular t/o bearing adjustment. Measured it 3 times and then adjusted it according to the Novak tech page. I think I got it with too little free-play.

Thought that I had an issue with the dist., but that turned out to be just me too tired. I'm gonna blame it on that anyway!

Had to knock more off the bottom of the intake manifold to clear my mod to the heat riser block-off plate that the car came with. The span between bolts was too great for the 1/4" plate and after a enough heat cycles it would bow and then leak. I added four M4's (because they fit & I had them), two to each long side. Drilled & tapped the manifold. Hopefully that will last long enough for me to get off my arse and build a tubular exhaust manifold.....

The special manifold stud that I made to stop the coolant leak is, of course, the only one that is missing. Stuffed a McMaster sourced ARP stud in there for now, but even with sealant it is weeping very slightly with no system pressure on it. I doubt that the engine builder knows where it is or even knows of it. Probably have to make another one.

Got the wiring tidied up some. With the GM HEI & related E-core coil the ballast resistor is no longer needed so it got removed and replaced with an isolated stud for all of the ign connections.

Dip-stick has disappeared. I have the one for the other core (thanks again pista!), but it is a different length. Measured, made a cut, welded and it's still to long. Have to think this thru a bit more.

Hoping to start it tomorrow!

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Once I got it to prime, had remove the oil filter and squirt a bunch of oil down the oil pump ports, it got oil pressure. 60 cold psi at cranking! Plugs back in, dist reconnected and it lit right off. Halfway thru a 1500-2500 varying RPM 30 mins break-in cycle.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

It runs! Got it broken-in and then set the idle mixture & speed settings on the carb. Has that slight raspyness to the exhaust note that straight 6's can have. Old engine never did that.

Now for the bad news, today I get to take the trans out. It appears that the annular t/o assembly had extended itself while sitting there with no clutch to limit it's extension. The result is that when I measured to set up it's correct position the annual piston was too extended to have enough remaining travel to disengage the clutch. Goes into gear slick with the engine off, can NOT get it to go in with the engine running. Was able to reach up in there and gently push the annular piston back far enough to create a .300"+ air gap between the bearing and the clutch fingers. As there isn't enough adjustment in their design I'll have to make another spacer to sit on the t/o bearing collar (?, thing that the t/o bearing rides on - part of the trans front bearing retainer) behind the t/o bearing assembly.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

It occasionally spits back thru the carb at low speed, high(er) load i.e. bordering on lugging. Been too long, having to teach myself engine tuning all over again. Up to 12° initial, which has made it better but not cured it. Engine does seem to like it through hesitant to try more. Have yet to hear it rattle on 87. Going to try a bigger accel squirter, see how that changes things.

Driving impressions:
I asked for 135-150 HP that was pump gas and MAP sensor friendly. I suspect that we're near the low end of that. Other than that, it does have a slight lope at idle, which I like. The mildly lightened flywheel is just about perfect. Not so light that traffic driving is a chore, but light enough that the engine is notably more responsive than it was.

Now that the t/o bearing is sorted out the Center-Force Dual Friction II clutch works great. Low pedal effort and it can be feathered easily. Definitely not an "oil-can" clutch. The interaction between the metallic pucks and the previous coarse flywheel surfacing job does cause it to 'whistle' when being feathered, but I expect that as it beds-in that will go away. Recommended for those with T-5's.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Bringing this back from the dead.

Car had been parked for quite a while. Decided to either sell it or get it going again. I chose the latter. I noted in my first post here that those cop car wheels are heavy. Got tired of the look, but I needed 15X7 wheels with a 4.5" Back-Space because of the Ford rear axle's extra width. Finally found some, on Summit of all places. So "Scooter" has been re-wheeled. The cop car wheels & poverty caps are FS. In the pic below the steelies are still in the trunk, so it is sitting a little nose high.

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Thom



Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

As much as I like the Exner cars, a clean 65 like yours is pretty hard to beat. Nice job with the wheels.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Nice work! I love minilites on an old car. Enjoy the drive...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

That's a really good-lookin' car. I love the wheels!

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson