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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 2:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
PROGRESS!

I switched from the slant BBD that leaked badly to a 318 BBD I found in a junkyard a few years back. The 318 BBD hung on my garage wall for a few years and amazingly doesn't leak and seems to be working OK.

I made my own timing mark and got the timing set at about 10 BTDC. It idles OK, but there is a nasty RPM drop when I put it in gear and the engine runs rough in gear. Next steps are finishing the kick down linkage installation, doing a thorough tune up, adjusting the valves, and power flushing the cooling system.

Also, I will need to pull the dash apart and check all the wiring. Somebody added a fuse coming off the starter relay that blows if the engine cranks too much. When the fuse blows the engine won't crank, so I think this is the main power feed for the truck. The ignition switch has been replaced and the dash lights don't work, so the whole dash wiring is suspect and needs to be inspected and repaired.

Anyway, it at least starts now and idles OK. Onwards and upwards!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 7:06 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 5:49 am
Posts: 65
Car Model:
Love watching the progress, Reed! :D


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 Post subject: Keep It Up !!!
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 8:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 273
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
Looks pretty clean under there, and SWEET Super 6! I love the action photo... "Fan blades in motion".


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 9:31 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks guys! Neil- Good eye catching the fan blades in motion! Yes, the engine was running when this photo was taken. What you can't see is the kick down linkage you gave me. The bottom of the long rod rubs on a bracket on the shift linkage, so I need to do some massaging. Otherwise it fits pretty dang good! I also need to fabricate the linkage piece that goes between the stud on the carb to the top of the "U" on the kick down rod. I have a piece of aluminum ready to go for that, though.

I, too, am happy about the Super Six air cleaner. Thanks a million Wes! I need to get the cold air intake tubes I got from DusterIdiot sorted and installed.

That is the clean side of the motor. The bottom is PLENTY greasy and dirty. That picture also is proof that Ford light blue is nowhere near a match to the correct Chrysler turquoise. I painted the intake with the only "light" blue engine paint I could find stocked at the parts store. I will be getting the right Chrysler color and repainting it eventually.

The more I get into this truck, the more it seems like it was parked and sat for a very long time before the lady I bought it from got it. Fading of the dash and plastics, crud in the water jacket, etc... all indicate that the truck sat for a long period of time. But the engine seems to be a strong runner. I am anxious to do the valve lash and get the kick down sorted so I can take it for a test drive. The motor is running much better now that I know where the timing mark is and now that the timing is not set to a large number after TDC.

Now that I 95% fixed the exhaust leak between the manifolds and I was able to look at the exhaust as the engine warmed up, I discovered that the muffler is very rotted out. The exhaust leak under the hood was so loud that I couldn't tell the muffler was bad before, but now it is obvious. I think I have an old Walker quiet-flow muffler in my storage unit that I can swap onto the truck.

I also installed the phenolic heat shield that a board member made up a while back. I want to see how it performs. I need to do the fuel line mod and replace that horrid plastic fuel filter.

Somebody was in this truck before me, for sure. The head is a red peanut plug head, the manifold nuts werent installed right and has extra washers, it has no charcoal canister or EGR valve, but there are the remnants of the wiring for the EGR timer, the CCEGR valve in the head, and the bracket for a charcoal canister. And the wiring mess. However, it turns out the 318 BBD I am using has no canister purge port or bowl vent port. Which is odd since I grabbed it off of a 79 Dodge van. I wonder if the heavy-duty 318 package didn't have a charcoal canister?

I also need to get a hose for the PCV valve. The fitting on the carb is capped.

Anyway, the more I tinker with this truck, the more little things I find that need replacing or repair. But that's why I got it!

P.S. - I forgot to mention that it pulls a steady 18.5 inches of mercury in park idling. Probably not that good idling in drive, but I will get that taken care of.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 6:41 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 9:07 am
Posts: 1116
Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
Car Model:
De nada bro!

_________________
"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 3:58 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Spent a little time on the truck today. I got the kick down sorted. I ended up using the factory one barrel long rod with the two barrel exhaust manifold bracket and "U" piece. I found an original Super Six throttle return spring bracket in my parts pile, so that went on too. I tuned the carb a bit more and adjusted the valves. This little motor is actually running pretty good now!

On the down side, I discovered that the original power brake boost has begun to fail. The idle is smooth until I put my foot on the brakes. The nasty idle drop and rough running in gear is caused by the brake booster making a vacuum leak. If I put the trans in gear with the emergency brake on and the service brakes not touched, the truck idles nice and smooth and quiet. As soon as I step on the brakes the idle gets rough and drops lower.

I still need to do some fine tuning on the choke and fast idle systems. I am using a CarbsOnly electric choke kit and those are a bit picky until they get set up right. But once they are set up they WORK and can be put out of your mind.

The last two things I need to do before this truck is daily-driver ready is mount some mirrors (the originals both broke) and suss out the wiring. getting closer!

I made some interesting discoveries while I had the valve cover off. There was only a bit of surface rust on the #1 cylinder rocker arms. Everything else was very clean and shiny. Smooch so that I think this is a rebuilt head. There are copper looking shims under the valve springs and the spacers on the rocker arm shaft have "FM" stamped in them in fancy script. The head is rusty on the surface like it was hot tanked but never repainted. While the manifolds were off I stuck my finger down a few ports and determined that the head has not been ported, or at least that the valve stem protrusion was not ground down much. The motor runs very well, so I am not going to complain.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 4:44 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3214
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
and that is how PROGRESS is spelled, stay at it, you will have a fine truck for Spring Time Fun


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 5:14 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks! It is almost roadworthy again.

I found out today that the aftermarket mirrors I had bought replace the broken factory mirrors won't work on my truck. I have enough pieces to put together a factory mirror for the driver's door, so at least I can drive t, but I need to get a passenger side mirror head.

I also go the stuff I need to flush the cooling system today. Hopefully by the end of the week I will get the cooling system flushed, the mirror mounted, and the wiring sorted out. Then I can start making dump runs!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:31 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Snuck out and tinkered for a bit. Got the passenger side mirror remounted and replaced the missing door panel clips on the passenger door panel.

I will try and get the driver's mirror mounted tomorrow and then it will be legal to drive.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:08 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
All right! Lots of ittle things done since the last update. I got both mirrors mounted, AND I HATE THEM! Those tiny factory mirrors may look cool, but they suck for actually being able to see anything. Plus they won't stay adjusted. I got a NOS set of breakaway twom point mount aerodynamic mirrors that I am going to install.

I also switched the hurricane rims for the original factory chromed steel slot rims. The chrome slots need some love, but I like them better.

I hope to be able to spend some time working on the truck this week. A Remflex gasket should fix the exhaust leak between the manifolds. I need to fix the non-operating dash lights, dash turn signal indicators, the Kraco radio needs rewiring, the cab light doesn't work, the driver's inside door handle stopped working the latch, I need to install the Lokar cable kickdown, I need to wire up a switched (+) lead to the carbsonly choke thermostat, I need to figure out why my ammeter twitches at all RPM ranges, I need to replace the power brake booster, I need to flush the cooling system, I need to do an oil change, fix a leaky valve cover, and I need to replace the cap, rotor, and plugs! WHEW!

I had a nice visit with Dan last weekend and he was amazingly kind and gave me a 100 amp altrnator off of an 88 or 89 Diplomat and he also returned to me the factory slant six 117 amp altenrator, bracket, and wiring I had given to him a few years ago. THANK YOU Dan! I am hoping that I can install the old-style 117 amp alternator on the truck and cure the twitching ammeter. While I am in there I will swap out the coil and coil mount just to make more room by the #1 plug.

Lots to do, and only so much time to do it! Onwards!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 3:59 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
It turns out a previous owner "polished" the chrome rims with either steel wool or sandpaper. Little bits of chrome here and there are unscratched, but overall the chrome is pretty much destroyed. That's OK. Gives me one less thing to wory about.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:02 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Got more done.

(1) eliminated the exhaust leak under the hood. I thought it was coming from between the manifolds but it turns out it was three exhaust ports leaking at the head. A new head to manifold gasket and Remflex manifold to manifold gasket sealed it right up. Now the rusted out muffler is really obvious.

(2) replaced the blown power brake booster. No more rough idle when the brakes are depressed. Hopefully this cures the problem of the brakes locking up if I barely touch the pedal.

(3) dug into the dash to fix the inoperative instrument panel lights and burnt out bulbs. What a mess. The instrument panel circuit board was in quite a state. All the pins for the connector had been broken off and resoldered, except for one that was rattling around inside the housing. Fortunately Zorg had given me an old early 70s D series truck cluster that had a good condition circuit board. Thanks! I swapped the circuit boards and replaced all the burnt out and missing bulbs. I also determined that the lack of dash lights is due to a rusted up hadlight switch. The feed for the temp gauge had been hacked into to bypass the missing pin on the circuit board. I now have turn signal lights, a working brake light, all working gauges, and instrument lights that turn on when I jump the terminals in the headlight switch plug.

(4) I fixed the driver's door inside handle so now it opens the door again. Beats rolling the window down to get out.

(5) set the timing back to the factory TDC setting and fine tuned the carb a bit. Added a second throttle return spring, fussed with the idle and mixture, getting closer.

(6) replaced the stock steering wheel with my deep-dish mini-wheel. I had to replace the wheel because the ground wire for the horn was broken on the original wheel. The horn still doesn't work and I discovered that someone has replaced the original turn signal switch with an aftermarket replacement. In replacing the switch they messed with the wiring under the dash. I need to verify all connections, but I know there is a ground for the switch that isn't connected.


Still need to add a power feed for the carbsonly choke thermostat, fix the horn, clean up the trailer wiring, mount the aftermarket mirrors, and now fix the stereo that died today. Still lots to do tomorrow, but getting better.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Got the power supply for the choke thermostat done, fixed the stereo, and cleaned up the trialer wiring. It still needs some help and the trailer lights are dim, but they work.

Been spending some time digging around in the garage and trying to clean up a bit. Came across a few treasures. Full HEI swap (wiring done, module mounted on heatsink), Blaster 2 coil, Mallory coil, a full set of used but serviceable NGK ZFR5N plugs, a NOS rebuild kit for a BBD, and several NOS caps and rotors. When I get some time I am going to upgrade the ignition system to HEI and upgrade the alternator to a factory 120 amp unit. I may or may not rebuild the carb.

I also poked around under the hood of my truck a bit and discovered that the reasons why the horn doesn't work is a previous owner appears to have ripped out the horn relay and most of the factory horn wiring and, instead, permanently grounded the horns and treated the horn wire like a switched (+) lead. Ugh. I will need to redo the whole horn wiring, but then it should work OK. I also discovered that the fusible link blew at some point and was replaced with a spade fuse. I replaced the 30 amp fuse with a circuit breaker.

I also pulled a plug to see how the plugs were doing. When I first got the truck home, the plugs were wet and totally soot covered. I regapped them, switched carbs, and tuned the carb a bit. After some nice highway drives the plugs now are nice and tan. Yay.

Back to work for now, though. Gotta pay those bills.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:06 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Swapped the carb out today. I had been using a BBD off of a 318, but it wasn't running well and the throttle shaft was leaking pretty bad. I found a true slant BBD hanging in my garage. I took it apart and discovered that it was in pretty good shape. I squirted carb cleaner through all the passages, verified all the settings, and put it on. I spent some time fine tuning the timing, mixture and idle speed, and the old truck runs better than ever now.

I also installed a set of cargo racks on the bed. I have no room for freeloaders in my driveway, and I got this truck for working! It is coming together pretty well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:38 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12865
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Image

8)


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