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 Post subject: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:16 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2020 3:07 pm
Posts: 19
Car Model: 1966 Plymouth Valiant
have had this 66 Valiant Convt about 3 weeks. my dumb dirtyword handbrake is TIGHT, cannot pull on the handbrake, and the cables underneath are TIGHT. car drives good and stops good. don't really know what to do except pull the rear drums off to check. suggestions? cannot upload photo, says too BIG. stay safe. thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 3:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 14808
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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If there is rust in the cables/housings that go into the rear backing plates, they can "self adjust" and lock themselves on over time. I suppose this could happen with the housing coming through the firewall too. This means you'll be driving around with your back brakes on all the time. Even if they are just on a little, it will burn them up over time.

There should be adjuster nuts on long threaded rods that are bonded to the cables, somewhere under the midsection of the car, and you can loosen those to let some of the tension off. This is likely your problem and hopefully your cables/housings are not freezing up as I described above.

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:54 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 6797
Location: IRWIN PA
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Back the tension off on the adjuster under the drivers seat floor pan.

Try 2-3 turns.

Also verify that the rear cables are moving by removing drums and pulling handle.

You could have up to 3 possible frozen cables..
One on each drum, then one from the dash / cowl area to the underneath where I mentioned the adjusting point earlier.


Greg

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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 6:20 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2020 3:07 pm
Posts: 19
Car Model: 1966 Plymouth Valiant
Thanks. all 3 are dirtyword frozen. but my car rolls, etc., with no stopping effect from the rears. wanted to find out IF there were some things going on that i should be alert for on this dumb problem. will ease underneath today and find out if i can loosen that NUT (not mine!). being as i have owned this car for some 3 weeks or so, i do not know what the PO may have done. i know Cables do rust/freeze, but the Cables i have all witnessed were loose and not tight. oh well, being as i am retarded (well, i qualify!! married the same woman twice, and almost did it a third time!), i now have something to do today (in between these freaking RAINS). stay safe. thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 1:30 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 6797
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
They can get frozen/ locked in the loose position.

Probably just need to replace the 3 sections of sleeved / sheathed cables.

Greg

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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2020 1:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5488
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Stuck parking/e brakes were a staple of car maintenance problems in Maine before such cables became sheathed in plastic. Back in the mid seventies and earlier Maine required a state safety inspection every six months. And every six months I had to do the penetrating oil dance due to all the salt used to melt ice on the roads. Probably if I had used the E brake more than two times a year it would have stayed operational.

Soak the outer sheathing of all cables with penetrating oil then grab a hold of the outer sheath and try to move it around to brake some of the rust to aid oil to penetrate. Try to shoot some oil down into the cable where it enter the outer sheath. Keep spraying every few days and try moving things. If you are lucky the cables will begin to let go, in a week or so at which time pull rear drums, disconnect cable from shoe spreader arm, and try to pull in both directions. Separate the three lengths of cable will make the job easier. Progress will be slow at first, than at some point cable will come free. Also wire brush the adjuster bolt and oil both nuts in hopes that assembly will come free.

There is a good chance that both rear cables are one rock solid chunk of rust, and no amount of oiling and tugging will free them up at which point just install new cables, and be done with it. Also wire brush the adjuster bolt and oil both nuts.

Tech tip:
A 10mm box end wrench can be slid over shoe end of rear cable to compress the multi fingered cable trap where it passes through the backing plate. All fingers will compress and allow its easy removal.

I have found a Sea Foam product called Deep Creep works real well on rusted stuff.

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82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2020 3:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 6797
Location: IRWIN PA
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Good tips there..

Especially on the 10mm and the sea foam product.


Greg

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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 6:34 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5488
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Maine, it's where new cars go to return to mother Earth one molecule at a time.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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 Post subject: Re: Tight Handbrake
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2020 5:29 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2020 3:07 pm
Posts: 19
Car Model: 1966 Plymouth Valiant
thanks. done BUSTED my dumb dirtyword snot-grabbing nose-picking FINGER with that rusted mess. the whole line is totally rusted and i will have to replace it all one day. at least i live in Florida where we have FLATLANDS (i never realized what OUR flatlands were really, until i visited West Virginia) and i do not have to use the handbrake. still, like a fire extinguisher, WHEN i need it...i need it now!! thanks. stay safe


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