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| Tight Handbrake https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=65094 |
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| Author: | grouchyandugly [ Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Tight Handbrake |
have had this 66 Valiant Convt about 3 weeks. my dumb dirtyword handbrake is TIGHT, cannot pull on the handbrake, and the cables underneath are TIGHT. car drives good and stops good. don't really know what to do except pull the rear drums off to check. suggestions? cannot upload photo, says too BIG. stay safe. thanks |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jul 10, 2020 3:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
If there is rust in the cables/housings that go into the rear backing plates, they can "self adjust" and lock themselves on over time. I suppose this could happen with the housing coming through the firewall too. This means you'll be driving around with your back brakes on all the time. Even if they are just on a little, it will burn them up over time. There should be adjuster nuts on long threaded rods that are bonded to the cables, somewhere under the midsection of the car, and you can loosen those to let some of the tension off. This is likely your problem and hopefully your cables/housings are not freezing up as I described above. Lou |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
Back the tension off on the adjuster under the drivers seat floor pan. Try 2-3 turns. Also verify that the rear cables are moving by removing drums and pulling handle. You could have up to 3 possible frozen cables.. One on each drum, then one from the dash / cowl area to the underneath where I mentioned the adjusting point earlier. Greg |
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| Author: | grouchyandugly [ Fri Jul 10, 2020 6:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
Thanks. all 3 are dirtyword frozen. but my car rolls, etc., with no stopping effect from the rears. wanted to find out IF there were some things going on that i should be alert for on this dumb problem. will ease underneath today and find out if i can loosen that NUT (not mine!). being as i have owned this car for some 3 weeks or so, i do not know what the PO may have done. i know Cables do rust/freeze, but the Cables i have all witnessed were loose and not tight. oh well, being as i am retarded (well, i qualify!! married the same woman twice, and almost did it a third time!), i now have something to do today (in between these freaking RAINS). stay safe. thanks |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Jul 10, 2020 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
They can get frozen/ locked in the loose position. Probably just need to replace the 3 sections of sleeved / sheathed cables. Greg |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jul 12, 2020 1:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
Stuck parking/e brakes were a staple of car maintenance problems in Maine before such cables became sheathed in plastic. Back in the mid seventies and earlier Maine required a state safety inspection every six months. And every six months I had to do the penetrating oil dance due to all the salt used to melt ice on the roads. Probably if I had used the E brake more than two times a year it would have stayed operational. Soak the outer sheathing of all cables with penetrating oil then grab a hold of the outer sheath and try to move it around to brake some of the rust to aid oil to penetrate. Try to shoot some oil down into the cable where it enter the outer sheath. Keep spraying every few days and try moving things. If you are lucky the cables will begin to let go, in a week or so at which time pull rear drums, disconnect cable from shoe spreader arm, and try to pull in both directions. Separate the three lengths of cable will make the job easier. Progress will be slow at first, than at some point cable will come free. Also wire brush the adjuster bolt and oil both nuts in hopes that assembly will come free. There is a good chance that both rear cables are one rock solid chunk of rust, and no amount of oiling and tugging will free them up at which point just install new cables, and be done with it. Also wire brush the adjuster bolt and oil both nuts. Tech tip: A 10mm box end wrench can be slid over shoe end of rear cable to compress the multi fingered cable trap where it passes through the backing plate. All fingers will compress and allow its easy removal. I have found a Sea Foam product called Deep Creep works real well on rusted stuff. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Jul 12, 2020 3:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
Good tips there.. Especially on the 10mm and the sea foam product. Greg |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jul 13, 2020 6:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
Maine, it's where new cars go to return to mother Earth one molecule at a time. |
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| Author: | grouchyandugly [ Tue Jul 21, 2020 5:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight Handbrake |
thanks. done BUSTED my dumb dirtyword snot-grabbing nose-picking FINGER with that rusted mess. the whole line is totally rusted and i will have to replace it all one day. at least i live in Florida where we have FLATLANDS (i never realized what OUR flatlands were really, until i visited West Virginia) and i do not have to use the handbrake. still, like a fire extinguisher, WHEN i need it...i need it now!! thanks. stay safe |
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