Found this thread over at FABO, seems to have been posted by a Ford guy that jumped into a MOPAR forum just to share what he knew about the subject.
Looks to be good clear documentation so I thought I would copy a link over here at .org

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... es.363066/

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Give me a week or so, and I may have first hand opinions and pics that I can share.

Greg

I have been looking at this. I would like to put a 16:1 steering box in my '62 and it looks like there just might be enough room under the dash to mount it. My thought is to cut the original column and splice the EPS unit into it but I haven't taken any measurements or really thought it through yet. I was hoping someone else would have already done it.

I watched some youtube videos on the subject and several have mount the unit in the engine bay but I don't think there's enough room in the '62.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I imagine there's enough room. This is the Kia Soul unit which is bigger than most others.

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Cool!

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That's one interesting project and could be helpful for the slant six projects.

THat is an interesting idea, but I can't help but wonder why all the effort would bo worth it to convert either a manual steering or power steering vehicle to electric assist. Power steering parts can be so hard to come by that it is easier to splice one of the electric assist units in, can they? What about amp draw and current load on the wiring? I could very well be uninformed and mistaken, but this seems like an answer looking for a problem.

Elec is much lighter than factory PS. No fluid/leaks or pump to deal with, and the often slow response or bad road feel of the factory stuff (unless substantially modified). You can change the amount of elec assist and even turn it off completely. No clutter on the front of the motor as long as you can deal with the install under the dash. If I ever do PS again, it will be electric.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Everything that Lou mentioned above, plus, like an electric radiator fan, an electric power steering unit only consumes power when it is needed.
A hydraulic power steering pump is consuming power all the time the vehicle engine is running.
Weather racing or just interested in street performance an electric power steering unit is a more efficient method to do the work.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Electric water pumps are practical too, but too spendy to justify on our cars. On new cars that use them these pumps can be relatively easy to replace compared to belt driven pumps, and can support variable flow rates. Although they might cost $175 to $300 they can often be replaced in 30 minutes, which is a big labor savings on many late model cars. Some OEM electric water pumps might be adaptable to slant sixes.

I'd like to use an electric power steering pump, but the only ones I can find are the Volvo-Ford units and it looks to be a passing technology. With the electric pump I could mount the A/C compressor where the power steering pump would have been.

I'm tentatively planning on a Davies Craig electric water pump for my Slant powered S10. With the right controls an electric water pump system does not need a thermostat. Electronic control of water flow can give faster warm up, more stable engine temperature and potentially more cooling capacity.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Hope to hear the performance of Davies Craig electric water pump.

I have also been contemplating an electric water pump for some time, but have not gotten into it. I would require something that has OEM durability for daily driving and long trips. Many race parts cannot do that. It sounds like OEM WPs are common enough now, thanks!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

The dirty secret about EVs, and especially Tesla is "Right to Repair". If an insurance claim is made on a Tesla, the company will disable the car, even for minor damage. You have to pay Tesla or an authorized service center to repair it - if Tesla will even approve that, then pay thousands of dollars to have it recertified that its safe. Now, Tesla won't recertify so you will be limited to mostly charging the repaired EV at your home. Likely Tesla will just tell you to buy a new one. That's why EV hacking is not widely done in 2020. Most Tesla owners are not "car guys". They enjoy the performance but a consistent thread is they bought the $50,000 EV because of the drudgery of getting an oil change. Right to repair is not an issue with probably 95 percent of Tesla owners, so don't expect it to change soon. Tesla may sue aftermarket companies that attempt to reverse engineer and supply parts for its EVs. Search sites like Rock Auto for Tesla parts. Ha! You could buy a broken BMW that cost $100,000 when new and probably repair it for $2,500 in parts. Older Teslas get parted out for their valuable parts that you might not be able to get otherwise. There are adventuresome third parties who ignore Tesla and rob Teslas for their parts and use them in project cars, but EVs like Nissan Leaf might be a cheaper source for these kind of parts. A new 62 kwh battery pack for a Leaf is $14,000, so there aren't many people upgrading Leafs with worn out batteries. Some Tesla models have nearly 100 kwh batteries. This stuff is way to expensive in 2020. A nice thing about Leafs is they depreciate like a falling rock, when there is minor collision damage they are very cheap at salvage auctions.

This Tesla video by Rich Benoit is frustrating, humorous and why we like our old cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PWlkAZCojg

As long as EV batteries are so costly it makes little sense for the aftermarket to support EVs. If a new Tesla battery was $4,500 instead of $19,000 then there would be incentive to keep older EVs on the road with parts sold on Amazon. Otherwise, older Teslas with issues will get picked clean for parts to keep other Teslas roadworthy. Chemical batteries might never become practical for the mainstream. An extended range Tesla Model 3 weighs 4,100 pounds, its a small car that weighs more than my trucks. The weight wears the tires and brakes and makes them ride wrong for a small car. In 2020, the economics of Teslas are worse than Porsches, Mercedes, Alfa Romeo and the like - which are fully repairable. Anyone who buys a new Tesla in 2020 isn't thinking of long term ownership. EV battery prices might be reasonable in 2025, but Tesla buyers really don't think of these details in 2020. Its a fun toy. They have disposable income and you buy the EV, and trade it for a new one within 3 years.

A gallon of gasoline is a beautiful thing, tremendous energy in there. If EV batteries become cheaper, maybe an electric supercharger will be practical.