Oregon Cam Grinding has masters for all the cams grinds shown and can grind most any of them on your core for $70. They also have a pretty good core bank and last time I checked even had some new slant cores. I had the #819 grind in my road race 225 and it worked very well even with a stock exhaust manifold and 2 1/4" exhaust. The cam for the engine I'm now building is the #791 which is highlighted on my list. This list is not all they can grind. If you want more intake duration than exhaust just ask and they will do it. They also grind hydraulic profiles, but I don't have that sheet.

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Joshua

These guys are great! Helpful and patient for a kid who barely knew what he was doing. I got the grind right above your highlighted one and it has been awesome. I told them that I wanted 270dur with .44 lift. They said they had one on the shelf that was close enough... ha! I'm probably better off.

Thanks Josh! The one you picked should be a good medium street strip grind. You might consider putting 4-6 deg more on the intake.
Also, I would not go over 108 LSA. For big cams, 104-106 has given best results from the big boys.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Lou,

I did put some thought into my cam choice. This cam is my compromise normally aspirated/nitrous cam. The slant wants more intake duration, but nitrous engines want more exhaust duration. Also, most of the extra exhaust duration in nitrous cams is accomplished through an earlier exhaust opening point which spreads the LDA. So if I were to add 4° exhaust duration to a cam previously optimized with 4° more intake duration I end up with a single pattern. And if all the exhaust duration is added to the opening side of the lobe then the LDA of would change from say 106° to 108°. The cam is ground on 104° intake centerline and will be advanced a bit more. If this were strictly a nitrous fed engine there would be still more exhaust duration and wider LDA.

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Joshua

The Cam I have in my Dodge Coronado is very similar to that 791...

I am very happy with that cam... mine is 270-270... 109 centerlobe... same lift...

I´m using 7.3¨ rods and very small and light pistons. 9.7 CR

It idles at 500RPM... and reaches 5500RPM so far with no issues..

I think it's time to bump this so more people know about the cam choices available to them.

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Joshua

Great idea. Im not far from the OR/WA border. Will they give opinions or do you need to know before hand what you want. Thanks Josh

Any chance of getting the hydraulic cam profiles?

Dizzy,

It's really best if you tell us your goals and what equipment you have so we can help with the total engine package. Then you can get exactly what you need to optimize your engine in your car. You don't have to settle for something that's "close enough". The guys at Oregon Cam Grinding do know cams, but folks here know slants.

Reed,

Yes, Oregon does hydraulic profiles. I just don't have a sheet of their common hydraulic grinds. They even do rollers if you have a core. I've bought hydraulic, mechanical and even one roller from Oregon.

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Joshua

Thanks. i am looking far ahead into the future when i hope to build a hydraulic street motor maximized for torque and gas mileage. I will probably work with Oregon cams since they are close and seem to be knowledgeable with good customer service.

I'd give Oregon a call and see if they will fax you a sheet of hydraulic profiles. Don't forget that you can mix and match intake and exhaust lobes to get what you want even if it's not on the sheet.

I wonder if anyone made it into Oregon Cam Grinding today? I just made it into work in the wife's chained-up Intrepid. I plowed the access road and parking lot for about an hour.

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Joshua

Is there a contact name / number at Oregon Cam Grinding?
and
am I thinking correctly that a re-ground cam is directionally correct in the process necessary to achieve the correct lifter pre-load in a hydraulic valve train motor, where the head / block combustion decks have been milled.
Or is the base circle reduction on a reground cam not significant?

thanks

The address and phone are on the image of the spec sheet. The guy that answers the phone can help. It might be Ken or the guy with a unique voice who's name escapes me.

The base circle will be smaller, but not enough to compensate for anything other than a light skim off the block or head.

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Joshua

Thanks Joshie,i havent gotten that far yet just curious. im still on the head section.i will be doing the porting with the info from the site as well when the weather eases up a bit. so heres what i would like to do with the engine:ported head with the oversize valves,340 (or equal) springs,split cilfford short headers(have),long runner dual intake from frannie,2 carter/webers from stovebolt,60 over block,cam ???,67 dart gt w/8/34 (have). thats about all i have for the list appreciate all the help. the car will be a mild street car to go to one of my kids when there ready to drive so nothing very radical

Dean,

The parts you (will) have allow for a good degree of flexibility. What gears do you have in the rear end? Automatic? Willing to buy a high stall torque converter?

If you're willing to buy pump premium, get the engine up to about a 10:1 compression ratio, buy a high stall converter and run 3.23 or numerically higher gears I'd go for the #346. If you want to use a stock converter and regular gas then you're looking at something like the #819 lobe on the intake and #818 on the exhaust with a 9:1 CR.

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Joshua