That makes sense since 98% of time I'll be driving without the spray so it's logical that it should be geared toward good NA performance first and foremost while still responding well to spray.

How do I find out what those cam specs are from the Clifford 300 cam? Is that their Ford spec cam numbers? What is that? I only thought they had the 264, 268 and 272 (or 276?).

How does spray factor into to buying a converter? Do I have to concern myself with that or, because it's so infrequently used, so I spec it out without spray so it's accurately geared for the motor with or without spray?

Or, if I spray on launch then I probably do need to spec that into th converter specs especially since converters are set up at a range only, i.e. 3200-3500 (higher number with spray and lower number without)

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan
1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp
Both slant 6 cars

I got the unit with the "power adder" option so it built in logic for, nitrous, turbo or supercharged.

From what I understand, only a "wet" nitrous system should be used unlike years ago when my first juice kit was just the dry plate under the carb. Not sure how critical that is with the smaller systems though.

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

I'll do a search for those articles about cam effects. That is exactly what I'm looking for so I don't have to ask for quite so much guidance regarding cam selection.

I hope the self learn feature is smart enough to leave on. That's what I thought the beauty if the system was. It also the ability to manually enter some specific detailed info about the car. We shall see.

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

The 300 I have is probably 30 years old. I bought it used from Mike J. I believe I have the cam card out in the garage. I'll dig it out and post the specs.

The 300 was duration, lift was .558" off the top of my head.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thank you. That would be awesome

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

Well, I went out to the garage this morning to retrieve the cam card that has been in my toolbox for 10+ years and it is gone. My brain is telling me I put it somewhere for safe keeping, now I have to figure out where.

In the meantime I did a Google search for the 300M cam and came up with this: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41613

This getting old crap ain't for kids.....

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

That's great. Getting closer for sure. Lou said that the cam you're referring to was even more aggressive than the ones he recommended. Does the 300 cam require any piston notching or is lift not high enough for that?

I'm still very unsure about how to go about ordering a cam. There seen to be so many different ways of stating the numbers given the location of the cam in terms of degrees.



What exactly would I tell Oregon cam grinders if I were to order this exact cam?

Was this cam in an auto or stick car? If it was an auto wad a stall speed required? If it was a stick where in the rpms did your power tien on and run out at?

Is the hyperpak a good match for this cam?

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

No... that's a lot of cam.. you will be running a clifford shorty... and I doubt the Fitech self learn will function well that far outside the box.



You will have to provide a cam for them to pattern to get a copy...

The closest pattern they have is the 309 lobe but the 102 LSA at this duration may not be conducive to any kind of mpg or street driving....

Besides having the offenhauser 4 bbl manifold I'm now also in possession of a brand new hyperpak and a FITech TBI unit with the power adder option. I'd like to use the offenhauser on my other car (66 Belvedere) along with turbocharging it. I'll talk about that car when I get to it. Right now it's just a nice running 1 bbl.

I'd like to run the HP & TBI with headers and nitrous on my 66 Coronet so that is the combination I want to pick a cam for. I'm still not sure what to ge

On a side note before you tear me a new butt,

I'm also having an electric heating pad made in a 5x7 size to mount under the HP carb floor. I took temp readings where the exhaust and intake manifolds meet at the stove pot junction and the exhaust manifold temp is roughly 270 degrees. The intake manifold is roughly 17 degrees. That is right at the dividing line where they meet an eighth of an inch below and an eighth of an inch above. I'm hoping that I can keep constant warmth in the manifold to avoid to cold weather issues. I also want to see if the TBI unit helps smooth out the HP and make it more streetable.

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

Is the clifford shorty manifold better suited to an aggressive cam? I thought the hyperpak came from the factory with an aggressive cam

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

"My brain is telling me I put it somewhere for safe keeping, now I have to figure out where"[color=#ff00f5]
[/color]
After years of each of us putting things in a safe place and then not being able to remember where that safe place was, my wife and I realized it was a lost cause. We now have a dedicated safe place drawer where we put things so we know where they are. We started out with a shelf but quickly outgrew that. Sounds dumb but it works. If you are going to do this, make sure you pick someplace large enough to hold the many myriad sized and shaped things which end up there. Even though I organize items into categories like plumbing, electrical, hardware and so on, there was always, and I mean always, the odd thing I ended up putting in a safe place because it was special, going to be used soon, or some other reason that made sense at the time. Like I said, sounds dumb but it works for us. Good luck.

It was also on a small ci motor with a stick in a very light car. Also, contrary to legend, the NASCAR 170 motors redlined at 5800, not 7000+ like people try to make others believe.

My opinion only, but unless it is used on a car that fits the aforementioned parameters, a Hyper Pak intake is best used as a wall ornament.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

It is the choice for all the racers, as it has bigger runner cross sections for breathing, and will allow the engine to rev to it's limit... it's also short so it won't have reversion problems with radical wide overlap events on a really big cam. It's the best all around manifold for performance....it also has bung locations to help with nitrous installation... that was Dennis's weapon of choice as well.

The hyperpak will narrow down the field quite a bit on your options...Like Lou said you are most likely going to have to settle on a cam, see if it works and then swap it out and see if that one works....(or like me, you take notes, then build another engine with the improvements)...



When I streeted one and worked out the manifold heating issue, the plenum needed to be about 100-125 degrees min to keep things happy but not hot enough to lower air density...



The kit came with a cam based on 1960's technology for use in a NASCAR race in a 170, the field has moved on from there and enthusiasts have done more work where the factory left off.


Race version was something like 286/286/108 .520 lift

Public Kit version was around 276/276/108 .430 lift (this is very similar to the cam the Chrysler 300 used at the time, and similar to Pete McNichol's stick)... I have one ground like this with a 106 LSA in a 225 test block... and I won't street it... it make's 8" of vacc at 1200 rpm idle, and comes on at 3000 rpm...that's at 10:1 static compression with a shorty manifold....

Dennis's cam is much more aggressive than the race cam, which if he used a Clifford HP on a manifold swap with that build, would explain why it eel'd over at 5K... the manifold just couldn't breathe enough for the build....

So you have to decide what compromise you make... street/strip or strip only...

Ok so let's just say I didn't absolutely love the mechanical architecture of the hyperpak.

Would I be better off using the hyperpak in the turbo application on the other car to overcome any air flow deficiencies of the manifold and using the offenhauser for the NA type with 150 shot and the FITECH unit?

It's way too pretty to hide on a wall even if it's not the very best manifold got the street. For the same reason this group pays homage to the slant I want to run one successfully on the street disguised as a race car. Greg's under hood shot on his car is killer.

I'd like a street/strip car. What cams will work with the HP on the street? Anything worthwhile? I'm willing convert it to a dual plane type manifold. I guess there are more cam choices for the offenhauser. Am I better off using the offenhauser or holding out for an older clifford 4bbl without the hot water plenum? What about the newer clifford manifold with the built in hot water plenum?

_________________
1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp

Both slant 6 cars

When I got home from work Saturday night at midnight my brain decided to tell me that I had put the cam card in the race car down at the shop. Looked yesterday, and sure enough, it was in the shifter box.

here are the high points:

Clifford 300M
Advertised specs:

.558" lift
300* duration
intake lash-.028" cold
exhaust lash-.030" cold
C/L 108*
.372" lobe lift
Duration @ .050"-262* I&E
46* overlap @ .050"
Ex opens 59* BBDC
In opens 23* BTDC
Ex closes 23 ATDC
In closes 59* ABDC

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.