well still waiting on the machine shop.... 3 weeks later. I guess I might as well start cleaning the casting fuzz out of the head casting as I still have that here.
the head might well end up there if only for the shave to up the CR... I have a valve grinder and seat tools (haven't done that stuff in years) so I might try and do all that here myself.... I have a couple of /6 heads on hand to experiment with, haha..... if I go with the OS valves, I will hand a head off to someone else to do up for me...….
also have an NOS BBD on the way, for it.... I have a hodge podge of BBDs here already collecting dust..... not sure if I want to "temporarily" swap to the 2bbl super 6 setup now or wait til I swap engines..... decisions, decisions.
I do know I will have to hit the boneyard for the goodies I will need for the kickdown linkage once I do get the 2 bbl on there.... guess I could mock everything up now with the orig engine in place, one less headache to deal with upon swapping in the new one...

oh yeah 1 more drivetrain question that will pertain to this build, I have wanted to ask. just remembered it again.
Related to the comments on how much engine power the rest of the powertrain will eat up....
It has been said earlier in this topic, that powertrain eats 15-18% of engine power. Is that figure dependent on how much HP the engine makes? If my stock engine makes 100hp that's "only" 20-ish HP/ (now, I know, I cant bolt this particular trans to anything besides a slant, but suppose for a minute that you could) If I put a 400hp engine in there, (small block, big block, don't matter) will the same trans and rear end, now absorb 80hp of the overall output?
I'm using kind of an extreme example there, I know.
cuz I would think that it would take the same # of HP to run the hyd pump, stall out the converter, overcome frictional losses, etc in the same given trans, rear end no matter how many HP may be available. cuz to increase HP or torque, at the end of the day for a given road speed, road load etc the whole works will be turning the same RPM under equal conditions, the higher HP/tq might get up to the desired cruise a bit quicker is all...… the 400 hp engine wont have to turn any higher RPM to get there, itll just spin up to that desired RPM faster than the lower HP engine...… make sense?

Agree, as engine hp increases, drive train drag becomes a smaller loss on a pecentage basis of available engine HP. The 15 to 20 percent are round numbers. However every vehicle will have its own tale of the tape. I suppose one could argue that to support more power a transmission / differential would have wider gears, more bearings to support the addition power and be a larger power drag. And then you can get into super finished gears, ceramic bearings, low friction coatings,,, that make sense to use at higher HP levels. So again, every vehicle will have its own signature. The estimates of power train losses are just that, estimates.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
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update

not much to add, block is still in machine shop jail. I have 4 of the 6 cylinders roughed out on the head, almost done with head porting, really hoping I havent wrecked the head to this point. I will definitely have to go with OS valves, without a doubt as I have "oops'd" several of the original seats or else stock valves and inserts. maybe OS valves and inserts still? I will be handing this head off for finish work soon. Probably going with the N/A build with the 819 cam. but still thinking possible turbo, in the back of my head.
Part of the holdup was because I pointed out a spot where on a past /6 build, I discovered a crack below (might have been in between?) 2 freeze plugs AFTER I had it assembled and installed in the car. Not at all saying THIS one was cracked. but just remembering a "past job" on which I'd had a problem and mentioned it to the machine shop guy. Like the cracked block on the '63 engine back in the late 80s, , I never had a chance to hear this engine run upon getting it. In fact this one was already in pieces. I'm just trying to make lemonade from lemons so to speak as I bought a Super 6 stack and got "all these extra parts" that were "almost" a complete engine but not quite. Definitely the proverbial "basketcase" when I got it.

This guy that I am using for this build, doesn't quite do full complete work. he can bore, machine something flat, hone, disassemble, reassemble, polish cranks, etc but his ad even says he don't do "heavy" cleaning or machine cranks or a couple of other machine operations. He called me early on, and said he discovered a possible crack in the same area as the '63 engine, that I only discovered the same thing after I'd spent the dough at the machine shop and put it all together and in the car... so he sent my block out and had it "baked, magg'd and shot blasted". (he has a small mag setup/ or maybe he uses dye penetrant for spot checks? Not sure. He was able to tell me that all 3 sets of 318 magnum heads I have taken him were cracked and was quick about those)
He has done other work for me in the past, and so far I have been happy with the results....he and 3 buddies just bought out their boss like 2 years ago now when boss-man wanted to retire.... I think that they do more extensive machine shop service now, than the former owner used to.

I haven't heard from him in about 6 weeks (I had been stopping by there periodically to that point to see how things were going but road const between my work and his shop has had me not wanting to head that way lately) so I called today, something I have been wanting to do for a couple weeks now....
All I need to know at this point/ is what size pistons, rings, bearings, and such to buy.... I didn't know he was sending my block out.
but he thought he saw something and wanted to be sure, so he sent it out. It came back "all good" no cracks, nothing to spoil the build. so now he can get back on it. At this point, once I get my pistons bought and in his hands, I don't care if it takes all winter...... but I have been anxious to get to that point at least. this truck project isn't a priority right now, and with winter coming, I certainly wont be driving it in the salt anyway.

oh yeah couple of questions.....
I've talked cam choice elsewhere for this engine, and I am pretty much decided on sending my original cam off to be turned into an 819 grind... but what's the difference between that, and DD's RV10 and RV15 (RDP) that I see talked about here? Where would I get an RV10 or RV15? would Oregon be able to turn my original cam core ('74 engine) into one of these? which would be better for what I am wanting to do? 1/2 ton long bed truck with 727 and (for now anyway) 3.2 gears, will start off with a Super 6 with an NOS BBD (bought from a still current "for sale" ad here at the forum) see how that works out, and go from there. so far exhaust will be a stock but opened up to flange gasket size, exhaust manifold.... this wont be a "race" theme but a "truck, used as one" theme.
mostly daily driven in non salt seasons, occasionally pull a small popup/ or flatbed utility trailer with a garden tractor or 2 on it.... don't anticipate towed load with this rig being much over 4000 lb (for very far anyways, my popup is only rated at 2200# max, utility trailer rated for 3500) but in daily driver mode, work is a 70 mile round trip.

also anyone have an extra (maybe 2 for safe keeping) main cap bolt laying around? I'm missing 1.

I'm not in a hurry to get this done but I want it as "right" as can be on the 1st go round. part of the problem with not being in a hurry, is all the "new" ideas I see floating around for parts selection, and gets me wondering "should I?" as I wait for the block to come outta jail.....

You want torque more then high RPM so I would use the RV10/244 RDP cam... on a 108 or 110 L/C.

Oregon can grind you something but who knows what lobes they will use and what those lobe designs are from. (ramps, velocity, lash settings etc.)
DD

Pm sent, Doc

ok, update time.
and sorry if I've said this before.... sorry if this is a "dry" thread.... but if I can look back once done and "remember what I did" to this engine it works for me,
I appreciate the suggestions I have gotten so far. It's also been a while since I started this thread. and I did not reread it all so hopefully not too much repeat of past info.

Got a call from the machine shop, finally off the back burner. they were hoping to have it back to me by yesterday but I called them in between and reminded them of something I wanted done at the beginning, to see if they had figured that in, and they did--- sort of. It's gotta go back into the mill. so that will delay it but hopefully not for very long.
In the beginning I had asked them to shave the deck for me, I was originally thinking ~0.020-0.030-ish. I reminded them once during the time that has passed, and they did machine it- just enough to clean it up. Initially they had taken a whole 0.006 off of it. that was all the cleanup cut it needed. so that is good news. proves block wasn't "beat on"/overheated too terribly in its past life.
It only took a +0.020" overbore to clean and square up the bores. Strangely pistons were no problem to find, (went with stock type "Silvolite" ones there)
Surprisingly the rings that go with +0.020 were the slightly more difficult thing to find.

But, some recent developments may dictate I use an Aussie head gasket, or junk the head that I have put the most work into.... it looks like I may have accidentally over done it in combustion chamber work, I put an old Fel Pro head gasket up to the head, to eyeball things.....(before Print o seal came out) I have 7-8 older Fel pro 7918 SB HG's on hand and 1, NOS steel shim HG on hand. (I forgot about that NOS one.... I never measured the ID of the cylinder on that one) I got a "pile" of /6 parts from a guy on FABO, and all these gaskets, were a small part of the pile he sent to me.

looks like I might have gone just wee bit too far, on a shave of the edge of a chamber to unshroud the bigger valves I have coming. Other chambers are kinda jagged around the valves in that head anyway (but not all) just wanted to smooth out the jaggedness a bit.
I have been looking into fire ring diameters of different available head gaskets/ and though I don't have a print o seal version on hand, from conversations over at FABO and asking for measurements of fire rings on various gaskets, the print o seal might be smaller than the old Fel Pro version. It was suggested to go to the Aussie one, as it has a bigger fire ring. But it is also among the thickest, meaning that I'd have to do more decking/head shaving, to have even the same CR as whatever tolerances of the day, put this particular engine at.... in looking on Ebay, though pix can be decieving, and ROL is no longer around, the pix I saw there of a ROL HG looked like less "space" between fire rings meaning only 1 thing.... bigger ID of the fire ring. and the specs I can find put that HG at the same thickness of teh Fel Pro Print o seal.... which is still double the thickness, of the OEM steel shim. the Aussie is triple that thickness.
Hey, I never claimed to be an expert at porting, the 2 slant heads I have here are my 1st serious attempts at it. Ive played with a couple of known cracked/junk heads from other engines before, but didn't really care since I knew those heads were junk anyway.

Looking at the porting I did (I stopped working in the chambers, once I saw what I may have done) it looks like I didn't get the burr square to the deck/chamber, I was acxtually wanting to do a bit more clearancing/unshrouding than what I had done at that point I had stopped.... looks like maybe if I take around 1/16" off the head, it "might" be enough to close up the chamber to where a regular standard issue (and readily available) Print o seal type might be OK....

besides that//// Damper Dudes called, my damper is rebuilt and on its way back.
Oregon Cams has my cam done, I did decide on their #819. They have my new lifters pulled for me. They are just waiting on the O/S SI valves to get there that I had requested and then they can send me my cam and the other parts back....

was hoping to have at least those valves here by next weekend, as I wanted to take those heads that I "butchered" to who I wanted to have look at and hopefully help me finish the work onto them.

Every little bit moves ya along... Just get the Endurotec aussie gasket and you should be fine with your combustion chamber issue. 3.66" bore.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

yeah/ id like to clean up the jaggedness around the chamber wall and even them out, at least.... I might leave that to the machine shop to do so I don't ruin it (if I havent already)
That guy that came on here with the closed chamber head? there's a 76 or 77 Aspen in a local yard (one that has alot of 60s and 70s cars still out there) I might have to go see if I can get lucky and find one like that? I do know that this car was a 1 bbl engine, I got the exhaust manifold from it when I 1st got this truck, as the one that came with it was destroyed.... and I needed a manifold to even see if the original engine would run.
what choices do I have on that Aussie head gasket? Anyone here in the US deal with their stuff? do they only make 1 version? I mean, fire ring diameter, compressed thickness, etc?

They were on Ebay a month or so ago.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I know, I could have put a different engine in this truck (meaning a V8) but I've done that before, in the past., on other trucks that I have had..... but is it a "bad reason" to build a vehicle in a certain way, because I'm actually missing the telltale distinct sound of an inline 6..... and a /6 particularly.... that I don't see or hear around here, any more?????

Don, you got that stream of conciencess thing going on in your posts.

Yes We have dealt with them.

One thickness - One size

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=61020&start=20


Greg

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Don,
Smalltownspeed has them on E-Bay right now. $59 + shipping. Not bad for a single gasket.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

ok gonna look into that/