I have a really cool 85 D100 SWB 2wd with a slant six and auto trans. It runs pretty good overall but suffers from difficult cold starts and occasional stalling when the weather is hot.

Here's what I know:

Electric ignition conversion on distributor - running on manifold vacuum advances even at curb idle
Rebuilt and functioning 1945 carb - I'm not sure where the mixture screw is set currently
still has all smog equipment hooked up.
Might be the original EGR valve in it? - I have a new one ordered
new mechanical fuel pump and filter - new PCV valve
Heat riser system seems to work correctly and meters hot air from manifold for a while until it's warmed up.
suffers from lack of power at higher speeds
Transmission checked out and shifting good.
Good compression all cylinders.
Considering ordering a electronic choke conversion 1234 from carbsonly

Where do I start and end on getting this thing tuned up and correct carb/timing settings? I had a slant six years ago in high school and it was pretty powerful compared to this truck.

I'm really not interested in a 2 barrel conversion type thing

Thanks In Advance

let the engine cool down over night, a cold start in other words, and before trying to start the truck remove the air cleaner. Next take note of where the choke butterfly's position, fully open, half closed, all most closed, and by hand open the throttle and watch what happens to the butterfly.

If the choke wont fully close snugly, this is a reason for a cold start problem. You have to figure out why the choke is hanging up, and not fully closing. Is because the linkage between the choke stove is worn and catching, is the bi-metal spring that exerts force on the rod connected to the choke butterfly weak r broken, or is the length of the rod in need of an adjustment.

The choke can be reset for repeating the above test by oping the throttle by hand and moving the choke butterfly back in the position and letting the throttle close as it was when the air cleaner was removed. This can be repeated as needed to see just how the choke and related rods and springs interact.

Another problem could be the fuel bowel is loosing fuel from a leak, or evaporation. So when you first move the throttle as outlined above look down into the carb and observe if there is a good strong squirt of fuel being ejected into the carb. That squirting is the accelerator pump adding fuel to make up for a temporary lean condition when ever the throttle is opened until the carburetor can deliver an enriched mixture. If the accelerator pump is not working (no squirt) or producing a small dribble, the carb need to be rebuilt. A poorly operating accelerator pump causes poor drivability ( hesitation or a stumble when throttle is slightly opened while under way, lazy acceleration etc.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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Take the EGR out of the loop for testing or block off completely. What timing are you running at? Initial? And total mechanical?

Does it have hydraulic lifters? If not, did you do a valve adjustment ?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

To add to Rick's questions... you said "electronic ignition conversion on distributor." Is it running a Lean Burn distributor (which should be connected to full manifold vacuum), or an earlier mechanical-advance EI distributor (which should be seeing ported vacuum)?

Should be a hydraulic-lifter engine in 1985, but it's always possible someone swapped in an earlier engine which would need its valve lash set correctly as Step 1 in tuning. If you give us the casting numbers someone here can probably help you rule that out.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

"electronic ignition conversion on distributor" can means also a Pertronix ignition (it installs inside the distributor). If a Pertronix was installed in a Lean Burn distributor, then there is no vacuum advance, and the performance is worse than it has to be...

To the OP: Yes, please make this clearer (answering the questions made above) so we can provide you with better ideas and solutions.

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
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