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 Post subject: Head install
PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 12:17 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 171
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
What are some do’s and don’t’s when installing a rebuilt head? I’ve got mine back from the machine shop and have checked everything over. All looks good but a few things that I’m not sure about?
The studs that hold the intake/exhaust manifold. I have taken them out and cleaned and re-threaded all the studs and holes. Do I need some type of loctite or sealant on these as they go into the ports (I think?) Do I put sealant around the infamous leak spot where the push rods come though? Anything I should change from bolts to studs and vice versa? Thanks for everyone’s help so far in this project. Next will be pulling my spare engine and have it sent off as well.


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 Post subject: Re: Head install
PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 7:58 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3805
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Many, maybe all of the exhaust studs are through holes into the water jacket. I use red RTV on the threads of the studs going into the head and have not had any leak issues. With the RTV on clean threads I run the studs in by hand then give the studs a little twist with a plier.
Don’t forget there is a water pump mounting bolt that is also a through hole into the water jacket. I put RTV on that one also.
Fel Pro head gaskets have a little extra bead on the front section of the lifter chamber. I have never had a leak there but I also put a thin bead of RTV along the out side rim of the lifter chamber.
Just make sure the gasket is in good shape, no wrinkles or bends, the mounting surfaces are super clean and dry. Have clean threads in the block and on the bolts. And use a known good torque wrench and you will be fine. I use ARP thread lube although motor oil has been used for years on the threads. Enough lube to very lightly coat each bolt thread and a light coat under the bolt head is where to apply the lube. Last but not least, follow the torquing sequence shown in the FSM. I typically bring all the bolts to about 60% of final torque, then 80% then the final 20% all in sequence.

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 Post subject: Re: Head install
PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 9:50 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 171
Location: NC
Car Model: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Thanks Dadtruck! That’s some really good info that I wasn’t aware of. The FSM says nothing about those studs which is why I asked here and I’m very glad I did now! Appreciate the tips.


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 Post subject: Re: Head install
PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2021 7:15 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8420
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
one trick I learned over the years on any head install. I put shaving cream in all the water passage holes on the deck side. That way if ant grit/scale is still in the head water jacket, it stays there, and doesn't fall onto the block deck, or into the cylinders. As soon as water is in the motor the shaving cream desolves.

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