I searched the board, but did not find any discussion of spray welding a chamber to create a "squish area". Has anyone tried that or brazing a chamber?

Edit: I should have mentioned I'm building a long rod engine with 2.2 pistons that I plan on having cut to the deck and then appropriately dished to achieve 9:1.

Not sure if I would "spray" weld. Might have a tendency to separate. I spoke to a company, at the PRI show, several years ago, about welding up a chamber, and reshaping it similar to the small block high swerl chambers, but lost their contact info. In any case, welding up the chamber will not give you quench, unless you also get the piston up to the top of the bore. Look at this
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/at ... 715687364/
This is the complete thread. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... ol.484492/

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

If you wanted to get squish in the combustion chamber do a heavy angle mill on the head.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Mark Goodman showed me a head with a "heart" shaped chamber that had been welded up. I can not remember who did it.

Doesn't the infamous Argentine head have heart shaped chamber?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

that guy was on here talking about that head, his username here is StrokerScamp

Some have milled 0.200" on the sparkplug side along with 0.100" on the manifold side. ( correct me if i mixed up the sides Lou and other sages)

It is possible that the head bolt holes need angled if doing this and then using ARP fasteners.. possibly need to spotface the flats where the head bolts clamp down as well.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I think Mark bought the welded, unfinished head from me on Ebay 15+ years ago. There's a shop (Rick's Cylinder Heads) not too far from here that was willing to weld up the chambers. They have a furnace to bring the head up to temp. Then they stick weld it and put it back in the furnace to let it cool. One problem is this bows the head quite a bit as it shrinks the chamber side. Another problem is that with the 225's bore/stroke ratio is that the compression ratio gets really high if you actually achieve quench with a flat top piston.

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Joshua

IIRC, it would have been 2000 when I was at Mark's. They run alcohol, too much compression would be just right.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Could be done with the piston?

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp- ... h-pistons/

The problem with doing this with pistons on an open chamber head is the variation in the castings. So then you machine the chambers to equalize the depths and everything is cool until you have to mill the head and suddenly you're looking for a custom head gasket to keep the pistons from hitting the head.

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Joshua

I should have mentioned I'm building a long rod engine with 2.2 pistons that I plan on having cut to the deck and then appropriately dished to achieve 9:1. My goal is smooth and economical with a little higher rpm.

The head strokerscamp has is a rare '70's head run of by Mopar with a chamber similar to an AMC 6 head, but a fairly pointless one by then w/o a complimentery piston. There was a welded heart-shaped head that had acasting "Tahuile"(?) on it, & was not a std. head, I found it hosted on photobucket & posted the link on FABO, I usedthe img for My desktop but was unable to view in the folder at some point. It compressed to a horisontal line, & that PC took a poop a while back. I believe I connected that head to member polara1974 thru the txt on the 'bucket account. Never got info on any results/execution/set-up, or ??? I've stick, MIG, & sprayed cast, it will work done right, as for is it worth it,.......can't tell swirl-wise, squish-wise sure.

You need to pull the current block apart and start taking measurements, last time I calc'd out a long rod motor with the proper squish clearance, the final static compression
was in the 11.5:1+ range with pitons dished. You also have to be careful as the pistons won't take a lot of tooling before the face is too thin to take any detonation.To get the
9:1 long rod build you won't need to deck the motor much....FYI

The slant in the 68 Barracuda is an 87 block / crank that was line bored, K1 long rods, KB 2.2 one mm over size flat top pistons with 5 cc valve reliefs. Both the block and head decks had a very light clean up cut.
The pistons have a zero deck height. With a Fel Pro head gasket the static compression is 10.5

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Nolands Machine in downtown Kansas City welded the heads for us. The first one in around 1998 and the second one around 2001. Broke the first head when the 198 rod came apart at Clay City and broke out the combustion chamber. Nolands attempted to repair it and it never did hold water so it's on the new dragster engine which won't run coolant. Nolands heat the head in an oven before and after welding so the head is warped from one end to the other. We had to mill the rocker shaft stands flat as it was so crooked.

Mark