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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2022 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:25 pm
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Car Model: 1983 Dodge W150 Power Ram
I’m having an issue with my 1983 W-150, and I’m really hoping that someone here has experienced this who can lend me their knowledge.
The other day, I started the truck from cold, following the routine that has been in that truck for a while: 3-4 cranks, during which the oil pressure (aftermarket Oil pressure gauge) comes up (50psi). Then one pump of the gas, the truck fires up and purrs like a large angry kitten. If the truck sits overnight or longer, the lifters tick and make noise until the oil gets to the top end, and then quiets down completely. The truck has done this all its life. Drive it around, starts and runs silent, oil pressure immediate. Let it sit a few days, and you have to go through the before mentioned process.

However, the other day, I had started the truck, let it warm up, and then turned it off, returning about 30 mins later. Cranked and fired up, but the top end sounded dry, and after idling a few moments, did not quiet down like before. I shut the truck off immediately.
Changed the oil: No glitter or metal
Cut open the filter: Nothing there
Filled with oil, unplugged the coil, and cranked to prime and build oil pressure: No pressure. Repeated several times. No pressure
Hooked the coil up, started truck, and as soon as ignition occurred and the engine fired, oil pressure came up: Top end noise did not go away. Turned truck off.

Now, Would this be a failing/failed oil pump? This engine itself is a remanufactured engine that I put in the truck in 2007: It has run fantastic prior to this. Drove that truck MT to OK and back again in 2009. All in all, probably 20-25k miles on it in the last 15 years. I dont hotrod the truck either, because for money reasons breaking stuff is an expensive hobby.

So, Im reaching out to pick brains. Has anyone seen or dealt with this? If it is the oil pump, that seems easy enough to replace. It might be an messy and anger inducing job, but that and dropping the pan seems like it can be done without pulling the engine, though, I have to ask, has anyone actually done it?


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 4:53 am 
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Top end noises can be alarming and worrisome... but don't condemn the oil pump quite yet..

You said oil pressure came up after the filter change. Does it still have 50 PSI of oil pressure on a cold start and top end noises? Guessing your changed the oil at the same time?

I'm more inclined to think that there is a sticking lifter.. iF you have "normal" oil pressure.

Also an oil filter with a stand pipe will help build oil pressure more quickly than one without on a cold start. Wix 51806/Napa 1806 is one example.


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 5:10 am 
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Sounds like it might be a collapsed/busted lifter(s) or bent/broken pushrod(s). You will lose some oil pressure if those pressurized parts are not present or collapsed/busted. You should be able to pull the valve cover and watch it run and see where the culprit is. You can hopefully fish out the lifter with a magnetic pickup tool and replace it from the top. You'll have to pull the rocker shaft to replace lifters and/or pushrods.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 8:16 am 
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I sometimes experience this with my "LA" Engines - The MoPar 318's That I have.

I never worry about it... and sometimes a ticky lifter takes a while to bleed all of the air out. It could be what Lou or others have mentioned where a lifter collapsed or is busted... or it is what I have happening on my LA engines.

I Put up with the annoying and slightly disconcerting sound of the tick, but I drive normally and lightly; eventually it bleeds the air out.
I would say if after driving ~20 miles it still ticky - time to pull the rocker cover off and find what's going on.


Greg

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 3:44 pm 
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Car Model: 1983 Dodge W150 Power Ram
Jase wrote:
Top end noises can be alarming and worrisome... but don't condemn the oil pump quite yet..

You said oil pressure came up after the filter change. Does it still have 50 PSI of oil pressure on a cold start and top end noises? Guessing your changed the oil at the same time?

I'm more inclined to think that there is a sticking lifter.. iF you have "normal" oil pressure.

Also an oil filter with a stand pipe will help build oil pressure more quickly than one without on a cold start. Wix 51806/Napa 1806 is one example.




Hey Jase
Yes, it has 50psi. I changed the oil after the top end noise started. When I started the truck after the oil change, it still made the top end noise, and it still had 50psi. I will pull the cover and look.


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 5:12 pm 
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Quote:
I have to ask, has anyone actually done it?

The oil pump is easy enough to change in the truck. I have done a few. I think that removing the oil pan in any vehicle is anger inducing. Plus it is extremely hard to get gaskets cleaned off and oil cleaned off ....etc. and the pan back on without leaking. I would have to have a really good reason not to just pull the engine and save the anger management classes! :D But your problem doesn't sound like an oil pump issue anyway.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2022 4:21 pm 
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Car Model: 1983 Dodge W150 Power Ram
Dart270 wrote:
Sounds like it might be a collapsed/busted lifter(s) or bent/broken pushrod(s). You will lose some oil pressure if those pressurized parts are not present or collapsed/busted. You should be able to pull the valve cover and watch it run and see where the culprit is. You can hopefully fish out the lifter with a magnetic pickup tool and replace it from the top. You'll have to pull the rocker shaft to replace lifters and/or pushrods.

Lou



Hey Lou,
Would you recommend I change all the lifters and push rods? I did buy all new lifters AND pushrods (Because better safe than sorry). I will admit that this is the first and most extensive inner engine work ive ever embarked on, so I want to make sure when I do this, I want to cover all the bases.
Any tips or old wise tricks you'd recommend?


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2022 4:00 am 
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Personally, on an old engine and with sometimes unknown quality of new parts, I would not replace them all, just the ones that are loose and making noise. Keep a couple of spares. I would go ahead and replace the pushrod associated with any collapsed lifter. You could replace all pushrods, esp if gunked up with oil because clogs will likely cause further failures. It may be finicky to get each lifter out because of oil buildup on the bottom side keeping it from sliding up and out of the lifter hole. I try to use the strongest mag tool I can, make sure it is down on the bottom of the lifter cup, and then work the lifter up and down until it slides out. I may take many push/pulls to get it out. On that head, you cannot get a long needlenose pliers down there, which is a more forceful way to get the lifter out. You could try soaking the lifter you want to remove with some penetrating oil to loosen up the deposits. If you and earlier owners have been diligent about oil changes, then these deposits should not be bad, but that is a crapshoot.

Before you start, please look at a cutaway engine diagram at the lifter area to see what you will be doing.

Worst case is you have to pull the cylinder head to get the bad lifter(s) out, and we can cross that bridge later if needed.

Hope this helps,

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2022 6:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:25 pm
Posts: 4
Car Model: 1983 Dodge W150 Power Ram
Dart270 wrote:
Personally, on an old engine and with sometimes unknown quality of new parts, I would not replace them all, just the ones that are loose and making noise. Keep a couple of spares. I would go ahead and replace the pushrod associated with any collapsed lifter. You could replace all pushrods, esp if gunked up with oil because clogs will likely cause further failures. It may be finicky to get each lifter out because of oil buildup on the bottom side keeping it from sliding up and out of the lifter hole. I try to use the strongest mag tool I can, make sure it is down on the bottom of the lifter cup, and then work the lifter up and down until it slides out. I may take many push/pulls to get it out. On that head, you cannot get a long needlenose pliers down there, which is a more forceful way to get the lifter out. You could try soaking the lifter you want to remove with some penetrating oil to loosen up the deposits. If you and earlier owners have been diligent about oil changes, then these deposits should not be bad, but that is a crapshoot.

Before you start, please look at a cutaway engine diagram at the lifter area to see what you will be doing.

Worst case is you have to pull the cylinder head to get the bad lifter(s) out, and we can cross that bridge later if needed.

Hope this helps,

Lou



I have been very diligent about changing the oil in this truck: I had a complete reman engine put in it in 2007. I know I said at the beginning of this thread that the truck has maybe 20 to 25,000 miles on the new engine since 2007, but now that I think about it it’s probably less than 20,000 considering I only drove it locally here until 2012 when I bought my Toyota , and regulated this truck to weekends and such. And I usually change the oil Every six months, whether or not I have driven a lot.
I do have a cutaway diagram: I will admit, the lifters are far deeper into the engine than I ever realized.
Recall somewhere in my studying or some thing that hydraulic lifters should be soaked in oil before they are installed? Is that true?

Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2022 7:48 am 
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The few times I have dealt with hydro lifters, I recall soaking them in oil for a few hours before installing. Others may have other recommendations.

You should not have trouble getting them out given your oil program. A good mag pickup tool (or 2 or 3) will be your best tool, and light shined down and adjacent lifter hole.

Lou

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