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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 7:35 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:50 pm
Posts: 11
Car Model: 1982 Dodge B150 Shorty
Morning Gents. I’ve worked through my measurements and was wondering how it looks to you. The rod side clearance is my only concern thus far.
I’m just starting out so let me know if I missed anything.
The pistons I have and need to replace due to major pitting, are stamped 60.
That seems to jive with the bore measurements.

As far as playing with the block I’ve drilled the fuel pump oil hole, and ran the suggested 5/16 and 11/32 long shank drill bit through the mains and the vertical head feed hole.
My question for the next step is chamfering the “downhill outer edge” of the lifter bores. That would be the top side I’m assuming. I’m also wondering what is used to cut the trench, how wide and how deep?

As for the stand off pipes, I’m having trouble finding the right threaded adapter. Where can I get the correct piece? Included with that, does anyone have a diagram where to drill the extra holes possibly needed if the stand off pipe method is used?

I know. Lots of questions. I would appreciate any and all help!

I’ve also included a picture of the distributor mount stamping. Very confused. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 10:22 am 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
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Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
I think Doug will chime in with some comments.
I would say the dist markings are build stampings as they went down the crank?
Just a guess, I have seen similar on the pan rails.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:10 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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I believe that you tap the preexisting drain holes in the lifter gallery. You camphor the oil tubes to the mains by using a long extension and a round ball grinding stone and reaching down the oil gallery. Not easy to do. And i wonder how many have actually done so.

I found it beneficial to port and smooth the inlet from the oil pump to the oil gallery. I was able to get 60 psi with a standard replacement pump.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:42 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:50 pm
Posts: 11
Car Model: 1982 Dodge B150 Shorty
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I have done the stand offs and the chamfer method on my first Big Bore"race" engine. And on my last one I did neither. I think it is a good bit of work for an unknown amount of benefit. I did drill an extra hole over the fuel pump, and I ran a wheel cylinder hone through the lifter bores to give them a little extra clearance.

I believe the standoffs I used were 3/8" pipe nipples(brass) that I cut in half and then threaded down into the block. I made my own tool to thread them in. I'll see if I can locate a picture for you. There is not much room to work down in there. But you can put your 3/8" NPT tap on a long extension with a socket and tap the existing holes. Obviously any additional holes you drill will need stand offs put in also. There is also a hole in the front off the block where the oil will run out onto the timing chain once you put stand off in. I tapped and plugged that hole with a flush aluminum plug with an allen head in it. Then I drilled a small hole(guessing 1/8"or so) to allow some oil to get through there.Not sure if that was the right thing to do but that is what I did.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:39 pm 
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Here is the picture of my stand offs. They were @ 1" length. Tool fit down inside of them and threaded them in.
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Attachment:
IMG_2507.JPG
IMG_2507.JPG [ 45.51 KiB | Viewed 867 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 3:23 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:50 pm
Posts: 11
Car Model: 1982 Dodge B150 Shorty
Rick Covalt wrote:
I have done the stand offs and the chamfer method on my first Big Bore"race" engine. And on my last one I did neither. I think it is a good bit of work for an unknown amount of benefit. I did drill an extra hole over the fuel pump, and I ran a wheel cylinder hone through the lifter bores to give them a little extra clearance.

I believe the standoffs I used were 3/8" pipe nipples(brass) that I cut in half and then threaded down into the block. I made my own tool to thread them in. I'll see if I can locate a picture for you. There is not much room to work down in there. But you can put your 3/8" NPT tap on a long extension with a socket and tap the existing holes. Obviously any additional holes you drill will need stand offs put in also. There is also a hole in the front off the block where the oil will run out onto the timing chain once you put stand off in. I tapped and plugged that hole with a flush aluminum plug with an allen head in it. Then I drilled a small hole(guessing 1/8"or so) to allow some oil to get through there.Not sure if that was the right thing to do but that is what I did.



Thanks for the insight Rick. Added to my notes!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 11:04 am 
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I always run a brake cylinder hone through the lifter bores. I have never done chamfer or standpipes and have never had a cam or lifter problem even doing many types of racing and a few 100k miles of (often hard) street driving.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 12:27 pm 
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A little late to this game, but. Those letters on the dist boss, are for use on the assembly line. for select fitting the pistons. The pistons are in bins with corresponding letters, and are some small amount different then the "nominal" bore size. I don't know for sure, but I think we are talking tenths of a thousand.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 4:13 pm 
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Supercharged
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I had a machinist that would press in Valve guides to serve as my standoffs.

Greg

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