Most if not all issues with water are from improper installation and failing to follow the manufacturer's instructions thoroughly.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

If that is true someone should call them and verify that it is correct. That would be a good thing to know.

Scott, are you saying that a copper gasket can be successfully run long term and not have leaks/ or get water into the oil? I just always heard the opposite. Does it have to do with surface prep on the head and block?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

$200.00 for a modern technology head gasket is not a bad deal. At least it is a viable option.
The question on the reuse on MLS head gaskets is open ended though. You may get by with reuse in a limited use track operation, but I doubt if the gasket manufacturer says that it warrants the head gasket when re used.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

$200.00 for a modern technology head gasket is not a bad deal. At least it is a viable option.
The question on the reuse on MLS head gaskets is open ended though. You may get by with reuse in a limited use track operation, but I doubt if the gasket manufacturer says that it warrants the head gasket when re used.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Yes, they have been used successfully on the street long term. Many industrial engines, both gas and diesel and even light aircraft have used them from the factory to seal wet liners and other components reliably. The only block prep required is o-ringing. I would suggest a fresh resurface on the block and head for a new install. Make sure both the head and block surfaces are clean and only use a solvent that doesn't leave a film behind that could affect the sealer from doing its job efficiently. If reusing stock head bolts, wire brush the threads to remove all the old goo and chase the threads in the block with a chaser tap. Apply adequate sealer to head bolt threads. Allow sealer to fully reach its maximum cure before adding water and starting engine for the first time.Then retorque the head bolts after several heat and cooling cycles. May require more than one retorque session until the bolts or studs stabilize and stop relaxing.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

What do you do about the transfer holes. O ring?

Your probably right but Ryan's car had 13.5 to 1 and 300+ HP, and turned 6700 rpm too. So it got tested pretty well over 3 seasons of racing.

I'm sure the manufacturer would say not to reuse it.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Your machine shop would need to o-ring the block. What do you mean by transfer holes...?

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

The smaller holes here water comes up though the block.



What is this sealer for? And if it has to set up, how do you re-torque the head gasket. Thanks for the education.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The sealer is for the head gasket around the water passages, and is applied to both sides of the gasket at each water passage. They need a high quality silicone sealer, usually the clear style, but its soft and doesn't affect the ability to retorque the head. In the event the head bolt holes in the block are machined through into the water jacket, then they to should have the silicone sealer applied to the threads on the head bolts. Some engines do, Slants maybe not, I haven't looked at one in a while to verify.

The water passages in the head gasket are put in them when the gaskets are made, along with the head dowel holes and all the others.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!