Afternoon Folks,

First post, hurrah, I have lurked a fair deal and this forum looks to be the be-all end-all with regards to finding solid hands-on guidance with Chrysler's /6 platform. So with that said and out of the way, I pose the following question(s) to those that are familiar with the iron 225; with an estimated vintage of 1966 (more on this shortly).

House keeping. This is my first rebuild of an engine so if I say something terrifically stupid, that is par for the course. That said, examining the block I have a casting number of 1971, not certain if this changed for Canadian blocks, however assuming this refers to Chrysler's 10K day calendar that would put this block at a production date of 1966. Aside from this I have no other information to date the block; I believe it was taken from a Valiant of the same year; it came without a transmission.

With that said upon disassembly I found that the cam has a awesome chunk removed from one of the lobes (Pictures uploaded below including the lifter faces for reference). I have no information from the previous owner as to why this engine was garaged.

For reference my intent with this engine is to mate it to a A833 (Was this config offered stock?) and then place it into a Dodge W-100 or W-150 that will mainly see highway use, 80KPH - 100KPH top gear cruising, and occasionally be thrown into the woods for a thrash and laugh.

SO, with all of that said here are my questions:

1. Assuming I wish to use the slant as a platform that can be interchanged with a 318, or the like upon my discretion with the A833, is this particular example worth throwing new parts at?

2. If so, my understanding is that these engines are of a hydraulic lifter by design? If so, assuming I wish to keep the engine close to a stock config would the following offered by Comp Cams be a OE equivalent replacement for this block? (Minus the increased low-end torque I don't plan to build a screamer) https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-21 ... inder.html

3. Finally, if this cam and spring choice is not ideal to get the block to an OE state; what would the users of this forum suggest? I am not looking to make power or have it scream; more so to have an engine that will happily keep turning for years to come.

Photos can be found in the file section. I appreciate the input; should there be any other questions feel free to post them and I will keep monitoring this thread.

Yes.

If you'll post all the numbers you find cast and stamped into the block, including the number stamped on the block deck just outboard of the frontmost cylinder on the distributor side, you'll be able to get good info on this engine's provenance.

In '64-'65 (USA) '64-'66 (Canada) Valiants, Darts, and Barracudas…and, with the overdrive A833, in '75-'80 Valiants, Darts, Aspens, and Volares, as well as lighter-duty Dodge trucks and vans through '87.

"Platform" means a specific thing in the automotive world—not this. You're talking here about engines, not platforms. The Slant-6 uses a different bellhousing than the 318, and different engine mounts.

Solid lifters through '80 (except a small number of engines built with hydro lifters in '78), then hydro lifters from '81-'87. Engines can be converted in either direction, but it requires more than just a different cam and lifters. Solid-lifter cam selection is much better, and periodic valve adjustment is easy.

Keep far away from Comp's junk. For a torquer application like you want to build, get a grind № 2106R from Oregon Cam; that is Doug Dutra's RV10-RDP and is quite a bit better than pretty much anything else available for what you're building.

Sorry, what file section, where?

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The 833 did not come in any 4WD trucks that I know of.

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12.70 @ 104.6

Good point—the proposed powertrain would work fine in a D-series (2WD) truck, but not a W-series (4WD). There were Slant-6/4-speed 4WD trucks, but not with an 833.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Welcome to the site! Thanks for posting questions, and thanks to Dan and Rick for covering most of your key points.

If your W truck has an A833, you will need the bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch parts that will fit the Slant 6 engine. The "non-OD" A833 takes a different bellhousing (smaller centering hole) than the later OD A833.

I would also go for an Oregon Cam custom grind. The one Dan lists is good, but it quite mild too. I am happy to discuss cam designs if you give more info on what else you think you want out of the truck, and what other pieces you are willing to put into the engine. The biggest one is compression ratio. That can easily be raised (with stock pistons) by milling the head and/or block deck surface.

All the best,

Lou

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Good Evening Guys,



I gave the deck of the block a look earlier today and could not find anything; would you happen to have an example photo as to the location of the stamping?



Perfect, thank you for that info and the A833 offerings.



Out of curiosity; do the Comp offerings have a history? Wipe easy?



The in-forum file attachment must not have worked. I have included the photos below by link.

Block (Casted) Numbering: https://www.dropbox.com/s/51juex4x49sbhi2/IMG_5805.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0x8sxylikj397l/IMG_5807.HEIC?dl=0

Cam Damage & Lifter faces: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z62df5tv2bwhgx0/Cyl%202%3F%20Cam%20Lobe%20Chunk%201.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1dw6u5dvybyb36f/IMG_7172.HEIC?dl=0



Good catch on the two of you. Would you guys happen to know what trans I am after with the intent the truck remains four wheel drive capable? That is a hard requirement with regards to this build.



Thank you for the welcome! Thanks to everyone not directly quoted. I am largely talking in high-level desires to ensure I do not put everyone to sleep with what I am looking for out of the engine. So with that said to further elaborate upon what I am looking for with this build:

General mantra with this build: keep the bottom-line low. There is money for spending where it is well spent; but by no means do I desire to be into this engine for decking, re-sleeving, or other large machine-shop bills.

I do not know what compression ratio this engine is operating at. The heads are matching but outside of the estimated date of casting the rest is unknown. Is this something that can be determined through the deck stamping Dan had mentioned earlier?

Outside of what has been said; The hard requirements I have for this engine:

Maximum RPM Range: 5000 - 5500 Redline is plenty.
Carburation: Intent is to use the standard 1BBL unit provided with the unit. Model unknown but if felt relevant I can make further investigation.
Intake & Exhaust: Stock units that came with the engine.
Cam & Spring: To elaborate upon what I had originally posted; I don't know the exact gearing ratios I can expect from the desired four speed manual, nor do I presently know what final gearing was offered in the W-100's and W-150's. With that said I would prefer the engine make its torque closer to 1500 - 2500. Would a duration of around 300 be what I am looking for to achieve this alongside reasonable fuel consumption when I am puttering around at 1200 - 1800?

Bit of a vomit of text there; but if there is anything I did not elaborate upon let me know as I am keeping an eye on this thread.
Hope everyone had a great weekend.

Lazy-assed non-engineering: Chevrolet lobe profiles that forfeit the advantages of the larger-diameter Chrysler lifter. Also, personally, too many instances of engines that just won't run all the way right after install of a Comp cam.



That "1971" you found is not a casting-year identifier. It does not mean anything outside the factory. 2463430 indicates a '63-'67 RG (225) engine block.



I think it's an NP435, but double-check that. There were two different first-gear ratios available, 4.56 and 6.68 if I recall correctly. That's a spot-check of mid-'70s availability; before and after that timeframe may differ. Trawl through http://www.car-part.com and http://www.hollanderparts.com to find intel and parts.

Given the usage you described earlier, this is about 1,500 rpm higher than realistic.

Much better.

Which means…

…I'm not too sure why "quite mild" comes after "but" here. We're talking about a torquer build with a 1-barrel carb, intended for slow road speeds…the cam I mentioned is basically an optimised version of the best stock cam, providing just what's needed for a torquer build with a 1-barrel carb.

No, that is way too much!

How many heads? The Slant-6 has only one. And what's matching about it/how do you know?

No. You have to measure/check for yourself; all you can get out of a book is the nominal figure, and actual values vary surprisingly widely.

Nothing wrong with keeping it a 1bbl, but the one you have in hand should be treated as "maybe or not". What if it's no damn good by design or deterioration? Just post pics.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What year 4X4 half ton truck? Before 1974-ish (?) they were had a divorced transfer case.. After the transmission and transfer were one.

In my mind a divorced transfer case is easer to do an engine swap, BUT you have to get the intermediate drive shaft angles right on the money...

The married transfer case eliminates one driveshaft as a source of vibration and trouble... BUT you get to deal with angles of two driveshafts if the transfer case and placement, and or orientation to the vehicle changes in any way..

I am thinking Dan is spot on. Transmission choices likely are the NP435. I've never seen on with the close ratio set up (4.56 first gear). They may be out there, and I would like to have one..

www.car-part.com , search 1975 Dodge Truck-100 Series (1989 Down) --> Transmission , then on the next page select MT, 4x4 (W models), 4 speed, 4.56 low gear . Some of the results specifically call out the 4.56 first gear ratio.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you will not be raising the compression ratio or increasing the flow of the cylinder head (big valves, some porting), then the cam Dan recommends is perfect. I would recommend a Carter BBD 2bbl and manifold (or similar) for a mostly stock engine in your application.

It is not clear to me how far you want to push this engine buildup, so maybe you can enlighten us about your budget and resources?

Thanks and all the best,

Lou

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Howdy guys, been a little while since the last post. New job coming up, Christmas, wrenching on other vehicles, and caught a nice go of Covid since we last spoke. Sad violin aside good news has come!

Upon the recommendation of Dan I reached out to Oregon Cams and purchased the grind he had recommended, alongside a new set of solid lifters. Progress!

So with that said hopefully I regain some strength tomorrow and I will try to identify the deck stamping and get you guys a photo of the carb I have on-hand presently.

Questions:

- This is the first push-rod engine I have rebuilt. Do the push-rods typically mate themselves to their respective lifter? I.E. should I be pairing new push-rods with these lifters to be doing this the right way?

- Does anyone know where I can purchase the alternator mounting bracket? The block I got does not have one and im not finding anything I am willing to put my money on at the ol' RockAuto.

Answers:



Without drowning you with information my present budget for the sole build of the engine is preferably within $1000 CAD for an OE-ish spec conclusion, exceptions can be made on a case-by-case basis. Ultimately this build was pursued with the intent of learning the basics, read mistakes, of engine building on an engine that is both mechanically simple and relatively looser in tolerance on a budget.

With regards to tools; sockets, grinders, welders, etc are in my possession. What I lack is precision measuring/timing equipment; this will have to be purchased as we go.

You had mentioned swapping out the stock manifold, I assume you mean both the intake and exhaust runners. Are there any in particular I ought to be looking for on eBay/ the boneyard?



Perfect, have one within an hour or so from me. Owner is French Canadian so we will see how we fair with the language barrier.



Ideally it is married; but it is too early to call it right now.

Alright; so heres hoping I regain some strength tomorrow and I will update further then. Happy New Years and I hope everyone is well.

No. Roll each pushrod along a sheet of glass or a mirror to check if the rod is bent. Examine each end of each pushrod for apparent wear or damage. Pass those tests? Run 'em.

Speaking of "run it", there have been a lot of problems with new oil pumps. Checking and servicing or reconditioning a basically-sound original pump is often a better idea.



The lower support bracket, or the upper slider/belt tensioner bracket? For running a stock-type alternator or do you plan to upgrade to a better one?



Exhaust manifolds warp and crack with age; the gasket surfaces degrade, and the manifold heat control valve they contain seizes up. See here for exhaust manifold selection info. Don't be tempted to put on headers instead of an exhaust manifold.

But really, now we're kind of getting outside the boundaries of an engine rebuild. Manifolds, carburetors, distributors, and suchlike can be talked about once there's a built-up engine to attach them to.



If you are USAmerican, they generally won't hassle you about it. If you are English Canadian, they might tolerate you…or they might not. Either way, Quebecois French is like French French the same way the English spoken in Scotland is like the English spoken in the hills of West Virginia. Perhaps you'll get to hear some Franglais, that Quebecois mix of English and French that results in sentences like "Excusez-moi, but pouvez-vous help me reparer les spark plug sur mon car? Ils sont tout f*cké, lo…!"

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a couple of cast alternator mounts listed in the parts for sale section. These mount on the passenger side of the engine. PM me if interested.

Afternoon folks, sorry for the radio-silence I have just been getting acquainted with the new job and have had very little time to put into the slant.



On the off-chance you are still monitoring this thread. I have linked a photo below; the red circled area is the bracket I am looking for. Outside of fasteners do I need any other hardware aside from the bracket you had mentioned to mount the alt to the block? If not, then I will reach out shortly.

Additionally, not certain exactly what the component(s) circled in blue are. That said I do need the bracket, and the starter (housing?) to mount the starter so it interfaces with the flywheel/flex-plate. Are these transmission model dependant or universal across all factory offered transmissions?

Is anyone presently selling these / should a Rockauto type have these in stock?

Photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/314abuqkm72j7 ... M.jpg?dl=0



Two were junk, going to order a new set. Thank you for that methodology.



When you say reconditioning, are there refresh kits available?



Noted, thank you.



Unfortunately, no dice. Do you guys have any general swap meets? Finding original parts in my neck of the woods is exceedingly difficult it seems.

Alright, so replies done with. I removed the lifters in anticipation of replacement with new lifters / a new cam. Additionally I removed the pistons and visually inspected, nothing terrible. Am I asking for trouble not confirming the balance of these pistons? Or should I be able to get away with re-use when re-ringed given the inline six layout?

Photos of lifters: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/52w9uob9 ... 9dfct65tul

Additionally, I have included some photos of the one barrel alongside the area where that factory stamping should be. It appears bare after some light use of 400 grit. The block does have three freeze plugs so its likely older; but at this point is there really any other method of getting an exact year?

Further block dating photos: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/e8f0a47v ... dh8eap1irm

Carb: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/y7naywzg ... vj58djod9u

Keep the shiny side up dudes.

That's the top slider bracket. Comes from any '61-up Slant-6 with the alternator on the starboard side. From about '72 up, they have an extra downward tab to keep the heater hoses from hitting the fan belt. Shouldn't be hard to get hold of one; put up a want ad.

Your blue line circles the block-to-bellhousing brace, the bellhousing, part of the starter, and part of the throttle cable/kickdown lever bracket.

You mean the bellhousing. There are different bellhousings for the Slant-6, depending on what transmission we're trying to put behind one. There are also different flywheels (some of which, in turn, call for different starters), and you'll need the starter-to-bellhousing "shield" (shim), which also has to match the starter you're using. There are different-diameter clutches—9, 10, 10½, and 11-inch—and different flywheel bolts.

You might be able to buy a replacement clutch from RockAuto. You can buy a poor-quality starter from RockAuto, too. Nothing else on your list is a parts store item.

Used to be parts available for them, which means an outfit like Old Car Parts Northwest might have old-stock repair parts (or an old-stock complete new pump free of the recently-made units' problems) for you.

Finding original parts in any neck of any woods is exceedingly difficult any more; the last few Slant-6 trucks and vans left the factory 36 years ago and, like most trucks and vans, got used up in hard service and then sent off for scrap. The more interesting and varied '60s-'70s Slant-6 trucks and vans, being older, are even closer to statistically nonexistent. Finding and accumulating the parts you want is going to take patience and persistence. Buy an issue of Hemmings Motor news and trawl through the Chrysler parts for sale section.

I would be tempted to weigh them just for curiosity's sake, while they're out, but if it weren't possible I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Are you quite sure the cylinders are in good enough condition not to require an overbore?

The one doesn't follow from the other.

Ack. Please use something better than Dropbox for stuff like this; it's a real nuisance even for those who do have a DropBox account, let alone those who don't.

That's not where the factory stamping should be; please try again with the boss at the front of the block's deck, under (toward the distributor side of) the frontmost cylinder.

Nope, nothing relevant here.

This is a Carter BBS, a service replacement carburetor for 1969 (US + Canada) plus some Canadian pre-'69 models with the anti-ice system described here.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.