Hi all!
Well, my 225 is getting to needing a rebuild or replacement, so I’m looking for suggestions to get the most bang for the buck. I like my slant six, so prefer to try to make it fast and cool as opposed to swapping it out for a 360. With that being said, I’d like to get a build making a hp per cube, or maybe a bit more, shooting for 225-250 if natural aspiration, over 300 if I go to some kind of boost.

Here is the current setup:
1967 Barracuda convertible
225 with a Clifford 6=8 package (Clifford intake, Edelbrock 500, Clifford cam, split headers, dual exhaust)
Stock 904 transmission, 7.25 rear with 3.91 gears, 235/70r15 tires on the back.
Car is basically an occasional weekend cruiser, but would like to have more fun stoplight to stoplight, and maybe try her on a 1/4 mile once or twice.
I don’t give a damn about mileage, just want it good for street.

I know, I’ll eventually break the rear end with the 7.25, but will cross that bridge when I get there.

I live near Tampa, FL, and so far none of the shops have much interest in trying to build a slant, and the only two that do are only interested in basic rebuilds for around 5k. I’ve never built an engine before, so think it’s probably a bit above my skill level, especially since I got nobody to help me with any of it.

So, thinking of sending it out for lots of head work. Oversized valves, heavier springs, porting, polishing.

Block, I’d like to go to Wiseco flat-tops (maybe .045 overbore?), Molnar rods, and need a really nasty cam.

Prolly keep the existing intake, carb, and exhaust…..but might like to consider someday going to either an Aussie speed blower manifold (Eaton blower, maybe?), or a Torqstorm blower. Would such things be compatible if I build the engine with a higher compression??

Another possibility is a Mabbco rebuilt long block with their “muscle camshaft”, (they don’t give out specs) and flat-top stock size pistons, but they won’t do any overbores.

So, suggestions, please? Stock torque converter ok, or do I need something different for that? Any good shops to talk to for head/engine work? Anyone local want to join in on the fun?

You mentioned that you didn't want to swap to a 360.
Don't. I never understood why so many don't consider the engines "in between".
To me a 360 has never been anythingore than a gas sucking pig, with not enough difference in power to really notice a difference over an equally healthy 318.... (Has nothing to do with modification, could be stock vs stock even.)

But before you even get to that point..... To swap to a V8, (any of them) means a lot of other parts needed to make a V8 work in anything that had a slant 6 in it previously. Transmission won't work from a/6 to a V8, motor mounts, oil pan, radiator, and possibly more. I decided to stay with a /6 in my recent project because I have done the 6 to v8 thing before and considering all the parts I didn't have to buy just because I was switching from a 6 to an 8, meant I could put more into building a better /6.
You're in Florida? We have regular post-ers on here from there, that may be able to help you. As can the rest of us here, but being from the area would be more familiar with things like who to take your block heads and crank into for the needed machine work.
All members here can help guide you. Go back in the old posts, most questions come back around and get asked again....

Basic questions before we get along too far:

Is the 225 in your convertible worn out, or ailing in some specific way, Or is the rebuild about looking for more power? will you be rebuilding that short block or build a different engine while continuing to drive and enjoy that car?
AND
Which Clifford cam do you have in the car right now?

You already have some speed parts on the car, did you install them, or was it a previous owner?

She's burning oil like crazy during acceleration (makes a nice smoke screen rolling down the highway, guessing rings and or/valves are shot?), and just not making as much power as she should. All the speed parts were put on by a previous owner, except for replacing the carb, so I don't know what cam is in it. I'm figuring on a full rebuild, but if I'm doing that, would like to go bigger on the bore unless there are compelling reasons not to. Probably not going to build a different block, but if I can find one already built right for sale, might go that route.

While the engine is out, prolly gonna look at sprucing up the engine bay, maybe repaint it to the color I eventually want the whole car to be. (a nice tor-red instead of the current burgundy-red).

Essentially, since she isn't a daily driver, I'm looking to make her as badass as I can with a slant 6. Probably see if I can add header cut-outs at some point. Annoy the neighbors, piss-off the local ricer machine crowd, and all that. (Yeah, I'm 57, going on 16!!)

While she's down for upgrades, I still have my 67' Dart GT vert to cruise in (Forgive me, but that one's a 340 car!).

The only real things that draw me to a 360 is availability, and the potential to eventually make it into a 408 stroker. The 273 and 318 never really grabbed me, (love the 340 but too pricey though!) and big blocks are just a bit unwieldy in an a-body, but yeah, I think a built to the hilt 225, while it's not gonna beat many v8s is a super cool way to go, and as already stated, I already have a decent start on it. I'm just not sure which direction is best, going for higher compression and naturally aspirated, or sticking around 8.5 compression and trying to do a turbo or supercharger build.

Seeing that australian build video online with the Weber sidedrafts makes me drool. If I could manage to pull at least 225 hp out of my engine I think I'd be a grinning idiot.

Not married to the current cam, although it definitely has a nice, lopey idle (lot of folks think it's an 8 from the sound). Want to go as extreme as I can and still be able to drive it on the street.

What are your current cam specs? If you went with webers they really calm down the cam as far as drive / idle qualities.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Are you sure it's oil smoke and not fuel/rich smoke? If too rich and/or the ign timing is not set right, it will not make much power. Yes, it would be really great to know wht the cam specs are... What is your valve lash set at (int and exh)? Different/better adjustment of that can make a big difference in how the engine runs.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

LOL, you're giving me wayyyy more credit on knowing stuff like that! I can pretty much handle bolt-ons, but valve lash is outta my area of knowledge. Just started playing with this stuff after having been away from it for 40 years!

No idea on what's in it cam-wise. I was put in by a previous owner.