Took the block, crank, head, and covers to the machine shop this afternoon. The wait begins.

With taking .07 off the block, will I need to use shorter pushrods?

Should I go more than .07? (9 - 1) Using the RV10 cam from Oregon Cams.

Punch your numbers into a compression calculator and see what it says. You are touching up the head correct?

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Not sure what changed but refigured just now and get .05 off the block for 9 to 1. Assuming I go .03 over on the pistons. If material is removed from the head the block will be decked less. I found some older threads here about pushrod length. Still searching and reading. I'm tempted to stay stock.

Was putting this info in a different calculator the other day. Don't think I was getting 9.4. .09 deck height would be. 067 off the block.

I would be careful trying to go over 9-1 CR on a street engine, with a very mild cam. I have a 170 engine with 9.5-1 CR and the mildest MP cam. I had a hell of a time tuning, to prevent detonation with less than 93 octane.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

When I built my most recent one a couple of years ago I took .030 off the block, (was disappointed that my new pistons still came out 0.180 in the hole) and 0.070 off the head, and ended up exactly at 8.4:1 which coincidentally is exactly what all of dads old Chilton manuals said these engines were "supposed to have" originally from the factory. So if I hadn't had either surface milled, or as the machine shop originally wanted to do to my engine/ which was " just enough to get a fresh sealing surface" of about 0.006 off of each/ head and block,
if I hadn't stopped in to check on progress as often as I had, and hadn't begged and pleaded them to " do as I originally requested" as often as I did, this engine would have ended up well below 8:1
Probably more like 7.4 ish Pathetic.

Thinking I should get the pistons assembled after the block is bored and check deck height before finishing the block milling to the dimension needed.

Reading on this site and it sounds like some head work is required to help the head flow better. Will the RV10 cam at 9 to 1 be enough? Or will bowl porting be needed to get to approximately 160 horse power?
I know chasing horsepower gains here gets expensive fast.
There is a hill on the way home that the truck struggled with needing to shift down to reach the top. Making it up the hill at 45 to 50 mph without shifting down would be a goal. That and a slight improvement in on ramp acceleration.
Is the RV10 cam, 9 to 1 compression, and a 2 barrel carb going to be enough?
Just having new rings might be enough.

Forgot to add the distributor picture. The o ring seems, small. Should there be a better seal here?

The oil pump checks good, diameter and thickness. Lobe to lobe is less than. 01. SM says .014 max. But there are gouges. I'd like to keep this one. Gouges too bad?

Resolution is bad. I'll upload a better picture in a bit.

That's just the cover? Know anyone with a decent size belt sander? That cover can be resurfaced

I have a belt sander. Was thinking sand paper on a flat surface.

There are gouges in the center gear. Wonder if that's why the lobe to lobe clearance is about .005. I will try to get the drive gear off and inspect the gear lobes more closely.

Overcast today, great for taking pictures, and I got the oil pump gear out. Would you reuse this?

Slant six oil pump https://imgur.com/gallery/oMSfIGj

I've seen parts that have sat a while stained like that. Can you catch a fingernail on any of it? It's probably fine. I don't see gouging and/or scoring that would scare me away. Somewhere around here I have a new (old) melling oil pump rebuild kit for the stock oil pump.
I saw one recently on feebay but went past it cuz I wasn't looking for one then.
I will say that a couple of years ago I went looking for the o ring / gasket for the cover and for the relief valve , as the ones in that kit I have was folded over in the box and being as old as dirt it wouldn't smooth out, and I got the last few in the pipeline at both auto zone and O'Reilly's. Neither were overnight, it took each a couple of days to get them from a father away warehouse than they usually get parts from ..
But if at all possible try to rebuild what you have, youre probably not gonna find an original style 6 bolt pump.

Posting a picture from the above link. Yes, a fingernail will catch.