It should have one for sure.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Measured a couple of cylinders at 3.403 to 3.405 real quick just now. It might clean up with a straight hone but guessing I'm looking at getting the block bored. I'm going to finish dismantling the engine this week and try to get the block to the machine shop by Friday.

Would you just bore to clean up or go big?
Too late to get in on the forged piston buy?

I'd bore as big as you can get pistons for.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I go opposite way. Bore the least amount that cleans things up that you can get pistons and rings for.

No other bolts holding this on? Not wanting to come off.

Use this type of puller (do not grab the outer ring) https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/do ... iser?pos=5
Thread the three bolts into the hub of the balancer. Put something (bolt, piece of metal stock, etc) into the threaded hole in the crankshaft to protect the threads, and have something to push against. When you get the balancer off, I would either send it out to be rebuilt, or purchase a new one. That one is pretty well shot. The rubber is coming apart.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Thanks! I would not have thought about rebuilding or replacing the harmonic balancer.

I have a puller and it's off. It just needed a bit more torque.

Pictures of the #1 connecting rod bearings and piston. How does everything look? Crank measures 2.190, book says 2.1875. Maybe my mic is off, it's 20 years since a certification.

Forgot to add, rods and caps are not numbered. What is the best way to number them?

I have a number stamp set. Stamp them on the pads by the parting lines and you can make sure to get them back in the proper orientation too.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I don't like "smacking" with a stamp. I always worry about distorting them. I use a etching marker. The kind that have a carbide point and vibrate..

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Was wondering the same thing about distorting them. I have a number stamp set. Stamp them on the crank for support?

Didn't stamp them with numbers. Used an auto center punch and made dots 1 to 6. Got everything out of the block. Used an egg crate for the lifters. Got the idea here.

Picture of the main bearings.

That is what they taught us to do in school. 50 years ago! I still do that too.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Measured the main crank bearings at 2.190, 2.1875 is max in the SM. Maybe my mic is a bit off. The connecting rods checked a little big as well. I'm going to pull the valves tomorrow and check the head. Plan to haul it all to Midwest machine in Tulsa Monday.
I talked to the main guy there today. He mentioned they did a bunch of slants back in the day for Southwestern Bell. He wasn't familiar with milling .1 off the head/block though.
So do I have them order pistons? There is a ridge on some of the cylinders so it most likely needs bored.
Anything else I should look at?