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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 12:04 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 7865
Location: Vine Grove, KY
Car Model: More than I should have...
Not2slow wrote:
MattMan:
I do have plans.

Next year: A highly modified head that I'm in the process of experimenting. SDRA Rules say "Factory Iron Head, Porting Allowed". I'm going to be pushing the definition of "Porting".

Rob Simmons might be able to link the post about the porting work.


Kinda like this...? :wink:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=65303&hilit=modified

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 4:14 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:40 am
Posts: 39
Location: Owasso OK
Car Model: SDRA Dragster
If I could find an aluminum oil pump, I’d buy it. Hint hint!
My next ported head will be the tube head mainly because it’s lighter and I have lots of them.
I’d be interested in an aluminum Corvair steering box. I’m using the heavy cast iron one.

Every time I look at the car I see something that could be lightened or replaced with lighter components. It get expensive.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 6:23 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 726
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
When they used to have the Chrysler Drag Seminars back in the 60s and 70s everybody wanted to talk about cam shafts and carburetors but Tom Hoover and company spent most of the time emphasizing cylinder wall strength, straightness, roundness, and bore finish. This was his formula for defeating the enemy and not making smoke and looking dumb.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 7:52 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:40 am
Posts: 39
Location: Owasso OK
Car Model: SDRA Dragster
I learned the hard way about who you let bore your block.
This guy (Shop #1) had done good work in the past, and probably can still do good work.
He said the deck was nice and flat, so he didn't mill it. All the pistons were at different heights. So I took the block to a different shop. Shop #2 said the block deck was like ocean waves. A quick mill and now all the pistons were the same height. (we milled the tops off the pistons to achieve Zero Deck) The bores were fresh from Shop #1, So Shop #2 left them alone. Not only were they not round and not straight, they were 0.002 undersize. This plays havoc on the rings. To make things worse, the rings were wrong from the start thanks to the piston manufacture that evidently doesn't know or doesn't care.

Amazing the power difference when everything is right like it should be.

Truth is I was very worried upon initial startup this time when the breather was pumping out smoke. After some "HITS" in the parking lot, that cleared up some, and after a few runs down the track, it cleared up almost completely. So yes, bore finish is very critical. And Shop #2 is familiar with the Total Seal ring package, so that all worked out.

I also did not go way overbore. I'm only at 0.080 over. I considered partial fill on the block, but I ran out of time last year before racing started, so I just went with it. And for this year, why change it.
Anyone have data on the weight of the block filler vs water?

So I agree Seymore: Cylinder strength, straightness, roundness, size, and finish are more important than big cams and carburetors, or at least first on the list of stuff to get right.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 1:09 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 6811
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Cylinders start cracking @ .104" over...without block or partial block fill... ask me how I know???!?!?

Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 7:20 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:40 am
Posts: 39
Location: Owasso OK
Car Model: SDRA Dragster
Greg:
Can you share info on your ignition system? Maybe you already have in another post?

I am having issues with the stock type distributor with timing stability. Shimming the distributor closer to the cam gear helps, but it's still sketchy. I was think about going to a distributorless system.
I welded the upper and lower shafts together and removed the "weight plate", so it's a straight shaft from gear to rotor.

I was designing a hold down that would allow me to bias the distributor body towards the cam gear, eliminating any gear play. But then life happened.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 7:42 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 6811
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Not2slow wrote:
Greg:
Can you share info on your ignition system? Maybe you already have in another post?


Hi Jeff,

Yes it's all here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36132

I will see if I can get you a specific Page later.
Start Here - I lost My Cam Drive Gear, but wanted to keep the cam..
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36132&start=855

A video can help tell the story too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P81lzr_Owwk

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:28 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:40 am
Posts: 39
Location: Owasso OK
Car Model: SDRA Dragster
I made some true 1/4 mile runs yesterday at Tulsa Raceway Part in the SDRA club race. Just as I had hoped based on 1000 ft time, the Go-Dad-Go ran mid 10s. The track was not the best and the tires spun on every pass, so the 60 ft times are off. I imagine with some decent air and a good prep, it will run 10.40s.

I think with some dyno time I can get it into the 10.20s.

Then methonal!! :lol: :D


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:49 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 726
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
Very impressive times. I will try to get down to MoKan and see your car this weekend if they don't burn down the town like they did last year.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 1:53 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:40 am
Posts: 39
Location: Owasso OK
Car Model: SDRA Dragster
Seymore, it would be great to see you there. They have move the event to Sunday the 18th due to wet weather.


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