i am doing a build up on my 225 slant six, i was wondering how much horse do u guys think i will be making to the crank. here goes.........
clifford WH intake/ split headers
free flowing mufflers
.080 of the head
mild porting
isky custom cam, 268 .455 lift 230 at .050
no smog stuff
500 cfm 4 barrel edelbrock topped with 14" k&n high flow filter.
how does that look to u guys?

gezz 42 people have looked at this and not one has said a word. i dont get it

Digger,

You should know that most people (serious racers anyway) on this board do not care about horsepower, only performance (ET, MPH, etc...).
Horsepower is only used to compare with (and impress?) other people when you are talking, not when you are racing or driving.

That said, I would think you'll be around 225 HP at the crank, probably power will peak around 4600-5000 RPM.

Lou

Looks Ok for a street set-up . . .
SL6 performance is made in the cylinder head so "mild porting" can mean anything.
As they say, "Parts is parts", it is more about how you put things together that will make for great performance. (degreeing-in the cam, curving the distributor, even fuel distribution, Header & exhaust system lay-out, etc.)

Done right, you shoud be able to get 1 H.P. per cube without much trouble but take note:
225 horse in a 2200 lb early car goes like scat, 225 horse in a 4000 lb Van feels kinda weak.

What have you done for the oiling system, what is the plan for the oil pump? ( there are a lot of drive gear failures happing with aftermarket oil pumps lately)
DD

i was just goin to open up the ports more for now, i am afraid to get in and around the valves. ok i dont know much about either "degreeing-in the cam, curving the distributor" what do you recommend me doing with those two. i was goin to sit the cam on the timeing marks, what should do to get the most out of my cam, this is in a 4x4 truck with manual 4 speed and 4.10 gears in the rear. what about the distributor, how much am i goin to need to advance it? i am goin to use a melling oil pump. thanks bud

HP is like getting a ruler out to measure ones Wang.

Then again... there is nothing quite like opening ones hood to show an embarrased "import racer" that he lost to a Slant Six, instead of the V-8 monster he thought it was. =D

All the performance gains are found "in and around the valves" so don't be afraid to grind away excess metal in the valve pocket area.
:
: ok i dont know much about either
: "degreeing-in the cam, curving the
: distributor" what do you recommend me
: doing with those two. i was goin to set the
: cam on the timeing marks, what should do to
: get the most out of my cam,

Warning, Danger . . . most SL6 timing gear marks are not correct, some are off a little some are waaaay off. To "line-up the marks and go" is taking a big risk that the engine will not get max. performance. Use the search function with key words "degree cam" or "split overlap" and read-up.
Getting the cam set correctly is not that hard once you understand what you need to do. Ask for more detail once you do some "homework" on degreeing cams.
:
: This is in a 4x4
: truck with manual 4 speed and 4.10 gears in
: the rear. what about the distributor, how
: much am i goin to need to advance it?

Let's wait on recurving the distributor, You need to get everything put together and running before your can do that.
:
: I am going to use a melling oil pump.

The current Melling pump has a thicker rotor (7/8"), their high volume pump is 1 inch thick. The factory used a 5/8 thick rotor. Thicker rotors puts more load on the drive gears and cause failure.
Take the time to open-up and deburr the oil system passageways and check the gear mesh to the cam. I have some special case hardened "experimental" oil pump gears available if you want to help us test them.
DD

doc u seem very unimpressed with my setup, what other things do u think i should look at doing? i am only 19 and i have very limited experence with cars/trucks. any thoughts would be appreciated.

**************************************************
Digger, just so you know up front, (kinda), Doc Dodge is THE Guru on this board. Not trying to put you down, just want to let you know that if he says it, it's very probably gospel.

He was highly instrumental in a slant buildup in one of the major perf-car mags last year, also re-engineered the molds for the old hyper-pak intake that was purchased from him, now sold by Clifford. He also makes and sells a dual cast iron exhaust setup that is very worthy of consideration for a street engine.

I suggest there's no one now living that knows more about the beloved slant 6 than Doug.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com

yes sir i am very aware of his reputation, that is why i see no one better to ask than him, wwhat the weak points are in my setup. i wasnt meaning to sound like a smart-ass, i just thought that if he didnt think it was that great of a setup then there were probably alot more hidden tricks and lil things that he thought i should do. like i said i am new to this and just lookin for help.

Sorry if I came across as "unimpressed" because that is not my intent. (I tend to be a "just the facts" kind of guy)

I commend your efforts and willingness to learn, I do want to you (and all SL6 followers) to be successful and happy with the results of their effort & work. What you have going is a pretty reasonable street set-up and I have tried to point-out some areas to focus on. (per your request) so by all means, move forward with your plans along with:
-some "pocket porting" directly under the valve seat.
-degreeing the cam with a small bit of advance (2 to 4 degrees)
-do some oil system up-grade work.

There is always more but I wanted to focus on the areas you listed.
If you do *not* do the 3 things listed then you may end-up dissapointed with the results of your SL6 rebuild.
DD

doug, i would like to do that porting under the valve seats but i have been told that can be very touchy and u have to know what u are doing, that is why didnt know whether to or not. have much do i need to take out from there, just that one inside corner that sicks out? also what do u mean by doin some oil system upgrade work? thanks alot for taking the time to help me.

Hey Bud, I'm 44 and and STILL learning about this stuff. I grew up with "rodent motors"; this Mopar stuff is all new to me. I started my project by just typing "Slant 6" into my internet search engine. I've probably printed 3+ reams of paper. Many of these articles were written by Doug Dutra. There's also a wealth of info on this site's archives. SUPER pictures!

From first hand experience, I can guarantee that you won't get this quality of help or advice either from the "Blue Oval" of "Bowtie" boys. If they figure out a speed secret, you're pretty much on your own to figure it out for yourself.

Let's keep it fun!

Later,

Gilly


tlg225ccr@aol.com

Check out my response on the "Porting" thread. There are 3 links there (thanks for the help with the links, guys). On my head, I'm doing the porting work first, before cutting the seats for the oversize valves. Just take your time. Cast iron takes a time to grind, so that will help keep the "oops" to a minimum. The last AMC 258 head I did, I used a Dremel tool with sand paper rolls. Took a lot of time, but it looked real nice when I was done. And yes, the Dremel was pretty much junk when I was finished, but all things considered it was an inexpensive porting job.

Gilly

tlg225ccr@aol.com

Take a close look at the valve seat and pocket underneath, there is a machined angle going from the shinny seat edge down into the as cast port opening. Right where this angle meets the raw port, there is a big lip that can be removed. Don't go wild in the pocket area but remove this transition edge by grinding straight down from the inner edge of the valve seat. Do not undercut the seat, just remove any metal to the inside which chokes down the opening.

Look at this crossection of a SL6 intake port and you will see the "neck-down". The white arrow is where the current seat will be and all the metal to the inside of the double black lines can be ground out. It is pretty easy, just do a small section at a time. Spend the money on some carbide burrs and the job goes pretty fast.
DD