I've been looking for a new clutch for my truck.
I've had good luck over the years with Luk brand.
When I look at rock auto the pic they show of the one that they say I need shows a 3 lever style.
When I hit "info" it shows there that that particular clutch is diaphragm style. Of anyone who's bought a 05-004 lately, which style came in the box?

Hello Don

I had a LuK clutch in the 83 D150, had problems due to improper staking of the adjuster bolts that hold the three fingers that the TOB rides on.
There are details and photos in the 83 D150 project post in the Sixers Gallery section, page 14, the post dated April 28 2021.

I installed an AMS Automotive clutch assembly, purchased from RA, it came with an all metal TOB, a replacement pilot shaft bushing and properly staked adjuster bolts. I went ahead and welded the adjustor bolt assembly for peace-of-mind. The AMS clutch assembly has been fine.

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Yeah I remember something about that. I've not had a problem with any brand of clutch besides Perfection before, probably shouldn't be surprised being as how they came from China. I've had both lever and diaphragm style before, I know what is said about the drawbacks of the diaphragm style, I've not had an issue there, but since Id like to put in the hydraulic style clutch linkage instead of mechanical style I thought that worked better with diaphragm type pressure plate.

When I had my last wrangler I put in 2 clutches/ one during teaching my wife how to drive a stick (fork actually broke and just about rubbed thru the pressure plate, this was the original clutch) and one during teaching my kid to drive a stick. The 1st one came from car quest, was made by valeo which was supposed to be exact oem... The 2nd was a center force 1st stage over stock. Took me a bit to get used to that one but then I actually got to like that one better, that Wrangler took the same PN clutch as my 318 Dakota that I had at the same time did,

I'd seen the "AMS" brand listed at RA and kinda looked past them only because I hadn't ever heard of them.

There is one for sale now on FABO 05-004

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... it.532486/

Greg

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Thanks. I just came from there. Only 1 problem, I didn't think luk had reached that low point.. the "made in China" label makes me a whole lot less interested. Seeing that pic answers my original question though.

Just ordered one from rock auto
Hope I don't get a Chinamade version..... Hope I don't get a chinamade version....

What are they? Having to remove the spring? Just wondering?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I've never had a problem with the ones I have had but "it is said" holding power is less than a standard 3 fingers style.

After the great service life and holding power that we got out of the McLeod diaphragm clutch in Ryan's Dart for 10 + years , I am sold on them. Very light pedal and great holding for us in a 3200# car with slicks....etc.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

It came and is exactly what I didn't want. Crap.
At least it's borg and beck style and doesn't have a plastic TO bearing I guess...
The bag with the pilot tool and the pilot bushing does say made in USA though...
"Non asbestos" so I wonder what it is made of....

Some kind of carbon composite. I don't think any big manufacturers have used asbestos for 20-30 years. Even though it is not as toxic as folks might think, the legal liability is too high. Carbon or carbon graphite or carbon fiber or "carbon soup" composites are excellent if done right.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

On a related note I found a great deal on a brand new, stock for later 80s truck, hydraulic clutch master/slave assembly. From a brand I don't hear of any more (EIS) but used to use a lot of.... Pix of box looks old too, older than the "made in" question became a problem. Bought from eBay from a seller called "spark surplus" for $80/shipped.

The bell housing that came with my 833OD has the bracket already on it, for the slave. So even though I have the mechanical linkage and Z bar for that type of setup too, I like the idea of the hyd setup. The only other thing missing is the bracket under the dash for the master to connect to, my son took the one off of his ramcharger, he's gonna take that one to work and copy it as a "gov't project" for me....
He had a couple of used, factory hydraulic master/slave setups from his parts buying/swapping.... so although I could have either taken a chance with one of those or else pull the pins remove the plastic "conduit" between them/ and get the individual, factory style master and slave separately for less, there is no bleeder screw anywhere in either component. It's worth it for the assembly that comes pre bled to eliminate that headache ..
I had thought about using a McLeod or tilton aftermarket setup but there are so many different versions of those, different bore sizes and stroke,and I wasted lots of time searching for selection guidelines and came up empty. I have no idea what diam master to use, with what diameter slave. Or what stroke length I'd want for either component.

That one's not for sale any more, I bought it. I put another LUK in my 82 D150 a while ago, slant with 833OD. It works fine, and it's the 3-finger model.

Yeah he'd listed it as "pending" after I post d something on that thread about "too far away" being as how he had listed it as "local pickup" and I'm not very local.
I PMd him like a week later and asked if it was taken and offered to pay shipping. He then told me it was in fact gone.
In mine that I got from Rock auto I had a hard time finding the "made in" label, it was tiny but there. Someone put another label over the original, and that info was just below where the labels overlapped.
The TO bearing itself that came in the box is USA , which is good because that's where my problem was in the "perfection" clutches I have had...
I just don't want to have to do it twice....