Hello,

I have purchased a new LUK 05003 clutch kit from Rock Auto. The clutch alignment tool came in a bag with two bronze bushings. They appear to be the same diameter but one is roughly twice as long as the other. If I place them on the tool, they do not index into the hole going into the engine. What are these bushing for and are they supposed to index?

Sincerely,

Paul Barrow

PS. The kid did not include the six bolts needed to secure the clutch plate to the flywheel. Am I correct in assuming I need to get specific bolts to attach this? I am currently waiting on a response from Brewer transmission.

These replace the bushing probably already in the back of the crank (since you are running an early 70's engine, 99% of these were drilled for the pilot bushing and had one
installed at the factory)...

After the mid-late 70's mopar cheaped out on cranks going into automatic cars, and they either got no hole drilled or in the cast cranks it was just a rough cast hole
in which case you would need a troubleshooter bushing and locktite that in...

The purpose is to keep the input shaft centered to the crank shaft...if not, your input bearing will fail pretty quickly. The clutch alignment tool is to center the clutch disc
to the centerline of the crankshaft while installing the cover to the flywheel...it is not to drive the new bushing in (they are friction fit and need a tool to drive in or something
like wood or plastic to drive it in so the oilite material isn't damaged.

Clutch kits don't come with clutch cover bolts, they assume you are replacing a previously installed unit or using aftermarket fasteners.

You either need a set of OEM bolts from a donor vehicle... or you will need to order ARP 150-2201.

Hey Duster,

Ive gone in and measured and I have the following three readings.

1. OD of new bushing. 0.941
2. ID of front of crank hole. 0.935
3. ID of rear of crank hole. 0.926

If there is a bushing in the rear of the crank hole it looks odd. There are two "steps" at the rear of the crank hole where the ID gets slighty smaller. I say odd as it looks like the wear is uneven with the "step" being thinner on one side of the ID and thicker on the other. It is not clear if these "steps" are bushings.

I also measured the depth from the face of the crank hole to the first "step" and it is less than the length of the longer of my two bushings. Do I need to pull out the old bushings if that is what they are? The supplied alignment tool is not snug when inserted. Measurements for parts are below.

1. OD of input shaft. 0.749
2. OD of alignment tool. 0.746
3. ID of bushing. 0.752

I am assuming that there is a special tool to drive in the bushing as the difference between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the crank hole is only 0.006. Is that some sort of slide hammer?

Thanks for all the info,

Paul

It looks to me like that is a "automatic" crank. The hole for the pilot bushing is drilled, but not "finish" reamed. Napa used to have a special pilot bushing with a reduced OD for use with unfinished cranks, but that has been discontinued for several years. Three possible cures.
1) turn down the OD of the bushing you have to about .002-.003 larger then the hole in the crank.
2) Get a reamer (not cheap) and open up the hole in the crank.
3) if the crank is the late (1968 up) one with the large flange/converter hole, use a timkin/national FC69907 bearing

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Hi Charlie,

Yes, the engine was made in 78 so I will first try your #3 suggestion. If that doesn't work I will find a machine shop in the area to turn those down for me. Thank you for those pointers.

That said, what tool do I need? And are you ever supposed to be able to get the busing back out?

Sincerely,

Paul

I'm really surprised no one commented on this, and perhaps by now you've already found your answer. A piece of hardwood dowel and a BFH worked for me. Dowel diameter has to be larger than the bushing but not as large as the crank pocket.

(Oh, that's Big ** Hammer, for the uninitiated.)

Will you ever need to get it out? There's no wear on this part except when you actually have your foot on the clutch pedal, and not much even then. Pack it with just a little grease if you want it to last a lifetime. I've heard that you can get it out by filling the cavity with grease and then pushing in with something (dowel, clutch alignment tool, input shaft.) Since two bodies cannot coexist in the same physical space, the grease pushes the bushing out. Never had any reason to try it.

- Erik

_________________
Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

Thanks MPGFanatic,

I've gotten it in there, my honest concern was that something wouldn't fit right and I'd have to dig it back out. So far so good though.

Paul