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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 10:33 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 11:14 am
Posts: 20
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Car Model: 64 Dart Convertible, /6, stick, 62 Lancer Wagon
I really like your Balls Out approach. My own goals for my 64 Dart are turbocharged T5 Street machine. I certainly can take some of your innovation and apply it to mine.

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64 Dart, 62 Lancer , Slant power


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 1:28 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7716
Location: IRWIN PA
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Fredsgarage wrote:
I really like your Balls Out approach. My own goals for my 64 Dart are turbocharged T5 Street machine. I certainly can take some of your innovation and apply it to mine.


Sounds good
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Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:22 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 11:14 am
Posts: 20
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Car Model: 64 Dart Convertible, /6, stick, 62 Lancer Wagon
My 64 Dart vert is currently completely disassembled, its the way I found/bought it. I couldn't resist that it is a factory 4 speed Slant 6 car.
But with that thought, I feel like I am starting at "ground zero" and have a lot to do to get this rust free California car back on the road.
To get my priorities right I am going to assemble (or have assembled) a freshened up running Slant motor. Then start collecting all the pieces to make a T5 transmission our only path back to driving this car again. I feel that a T5 and the aluminum OD bellhousing are far superior and an incredible weight savings over the standard A833 and Cast Iron factory Bell.

I hope that with your careful guide to conversion that this doesn't take me down a rabbit hole of problems. I am fairly mechanical and have a few friends to help now and then too.

Ultimately I want it all, a 64 Dart Convertible with Turbo Slant and a 5 Speed.

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64 Dart, 62 Lancer , Slant power


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 15359
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Sounds good, Fred. You might want to read through the links that Greg posted in the first post of this thread, which talk through issues that some people have had with their swaps. Hope you got my PM too...

My 5spd car has not seen boost yet, but has gone in the 13s in the 1/4 mile and is EFI'ed. Are you going to reinforce the frame and/or put in a rollbar to stiffen your 'vert?

Best wishes for your build!

Lou

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"You mean you still have a Slant 6 in that thing?"


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 12:45 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 11:14 am
Posts: 20
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Car Model: 64 Dart Convertible, /6, stick, 62 Lancer Wagon
Yes, I have plans to put in frame connecters and tie that into a stylish rollbar. Its a convertible and it needs all the support it can get. Specifically if I add some torque and boost.

I am dissecting this posting, piece by piece.
I would love for Greg to post a parts list...hint...hint.

James
:mrgreen: (Fred was my Dad's name and he owned a garage)

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64 Dart, 62 Lancer , Slant power


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 1:26 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7716
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Fredsgarage wrote:
Yes, I have plans to put in frame connecters and tie that into a stylish rollbar. Its a convertible and it needs all the support it can get. Specifically if I add some torque and boost.

I am dissecting this posting, piece by piece.
I would love for Greg to post a parts list...hint...hint.

James
:mrgreen: (Fred was my Dad's name and he owned a garage)


James, I probably will not get to putting thatvtogther soon. The part#'s (except probably clutch / trans mount ) are in page 1 of this post.

I do need to put that document together but don't hold your breath.

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 11:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:17 am
Posts: 164
Car Model: custom roadster
Hello, everyone! Long time no see. Looks like my last post was in February. Life has been... not great, but I've made some progress on the Very-Long-Term Roadster Project.

I'm looking for the cast aluminum bellhousing out of a 1976-1987 F-body, D-series truck, or B-series van described in Greg's initial post (5.125"Ø bearing retainer opening). Does anyone know the specific casting/part number(s) I should be searching for? 4210706? 2658957?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 9:58 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 4:53 am
Posts: 123
Car Model:
Great thread yall. Thanks for all the great info. I have a question I've not seen addressed, I could have missed it because I scanned through.

What about the differences in the stick out length of the input shafts? You say use basically any T5 from 1984 up, but what about the 96 and up? Don't they have a longer input shaft? I have a 96 and later world class T5 I am considering putting in my 64 Valiant. Is this something I need to watch for, or is it a non issue? Thanks.

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Rob

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 11:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 15359
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
A longer input is better. The V8 Ford T5s are 7.18" from mating surface to input shaft end, and really it would better to have 7.8 - 8.2". I think the 96 should work well, but I have not looked much into options or those trannys. I did my swap in 2002, when those V8 trannys were plentiful and the 96-up hadn't been out long. I am trying to find out now if you can swap a 96-up input and bearing retainer into the earlier 93-down V8 Ford T5s...

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 6:31 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2021 6:27 am
Posts: 2
Car Model: VH Chrylser Valiant Charger 265 Hemi I6
Hello I'm new here and am fitting a T5 to my Australian Mopar
not a slant 6 but a 265 hemi 6. I probably have more in common with you guys than i do with the "stick a 440 and 727 in it" crowd.
Car is 1 of 1300 Valiant charger R/Ts running a Borg Warner Australia close ratio single rail 4 speed. with a slightly offset tunnel centric stick no big exstension needed on the side for 3 rods and levers, its a top shifted single rail box.
if i take anything off it gets stored safely so it can go back to stock. It has value as a stock R/T, much reduced value if custom.

i want a 5 speed but i don't want to cut the torsion bar cross member out.
what i am willing to do is cut a small hole in the tunnel, Australian cars are based on a USA slant 6/auto trans, floor and tunnel, and they never changed that from 62-78 even when putting 727 and 360 in some cars, all they did was slit the tunnel hit it with hammers and weld in a T shaped patch in, for the later cars with v8s and bigger transmissions. so cutting a hole in a factory created mess is the least of my worries, a bit more weld and seem sealer in that area is no biggy

so to do this i have a plan, and i'm hopeing someone might be able to give some views or knows if it will work

Mustang 2002 late model T5 v6 Mustang i.e get all the good metallergy and higher Ft/lb rateing without the cost of Z box ford racing style

it has the reverse/5th gear synchro/brake with tabbed retainer and the small oil funnel/slinger
I took the tail shaft housing off becasue i wanted mechanical speedo
while it was off i fitted Paul Cangiolossi's steel counter shaft bearing support
I purchased a chevy s10 mechanical speedo tailshaft housing, i doesn't fit without work
the S10 housing is none world class, it puts the shifter 8 inches forward of where the mustang one goes
i had the scroll area behind fith gear milled flat like the one in the mustang housing, i painted the lowest contour that wasn't the center bore, red, and said keep going till you start removing the ink.
i then had them mill a rectangular space at the 11 o'clock point to accomodate the tab on the retainer.
I fitted a speedo drive from a guy on ebay who makes a sleeve and split collar set up with a chevy drive gear. looking at it you could make one yourself, but I didn't know that at the time https://www.ebay.com/itm/221782772686?h ... SwQhRgjwQy
I have a modern driveline adaptor for some other application on the front of the trans, its about 16 mm thick
i had a standard bellhouing machined out in the bore to fit the adapter and i drilled and tapped some holes to hold it on with decent countersunk Unbrako bolts
this puts the end of the input shaft spline level with the friction face of the flywheel
i got a dodge dakota release bearing and carrier which fits the t5
i got a dodge dakoto pilot roller which fits my crank hub
i had a brand new long 94 and 1999-2004 mustang input shrink fitted with a sleeve to take it out at the spigot to .750 and fitted that shimmed to 0 end float
australian 10 inch chevy/holden/exedy v8 clucth with a 10 inch mustang plate
mustang yoke with mustang to small dodge conversion joint

and thats as far as i have got.
anyone else tried it with the s10 housing.... i would not use an s10 t5 but the housing seems like a good thing

stick will be too close to dash but heat and brute force can create a nice swan neck if necessary or somone will have made something.

you know when you think you have it sussed, then you come across a load of info, like the thread above and all the other T5 posts. and doubt creeps in.....Well thats me at the moment. Most here and on other forums seem to concentrate on making a mustang or rear shift chevy work in their Mopar and i haven't...Am i missing something....? spent money on a housing when there is an obvious reason why its a daft idea. I went this route becasue this is what they did on TVRs in the 1990s.
i live in the UK with only 2 T5 applications 80s ford sierra and 90s TVR

I do have a Australian ford housing and an Australian holden housing just incase (BTR made T5 under licenece in Oz)
Aussie Holdens/GM has the stick in the rear position like a chevy camaro without the offset rear mount
Aussie Ford has the stick in a position that is further back than all other housings and the housing is longer. you need an extra long yoke. both could be used if the shifter linkage rod and its integral housing were cut out/down to the output shaft tunnel top, and the linkage kinked down to clear the torsion bar cross member and back up agin by equal ammount i think. its an engineering task i hoped to avoid

:) do you think it will work? you are the only A body mopar small tunnel sensible 6 cylinder motor, group about.
A bodies/B Bodies only/moparchat are very much "T5s are rubbish, only good for making parts soup, speak to SST or Passon performance"... and thats not the most useful input.

i guess what i'm saying is has anyone done this.....

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 6:44 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2021 6:27 am
Posts: 2
Car Model: VH Chrylser Valiant Charger 265 Hemi I6
StrokerScamp wrote:
Great thread yall. Thanks for all the great info. I have a question I've not seen addressed, I could have missed it because I scanned through.

What about the differences in the stick out length of the input shafts? You say use basically any T5 from 1984 up, but what about the 96 and up? Don't they have a longer input shaft? I have a 96 and later world class T5 I am considering putting in my 64 Valiant. Is this something I need to watch for, or is it a non issue? Thanks.


I deliberately went with the long shaft one, becasue i had no chance to use a custom bell housing, the nearest possible one was a universal fit bellhousing from Australia for $700 and as i'm in the UK, i'd be looking at £900, once landed and taxed my t5 was only £400

so i had to use one that could accomodate an aluminium plate between trans and a standard bellhousing.
this leaves the end of the shaft too far away from the crank shafts internal pressed in pilot bushing. However it leaves it floating in the area that the hub of a torque converter would sit in. As such the roller bearing pilot from a late model magnum 318 truck is perfect in all ways. except fori t is .750 in size, and the mustang spigot is something like .603 . anyway its smaller......

2 choices one is outlined in post 1 of this thread and the other is what i did above. pull off input shaft and get £45 of engineering time spent on it, to make the end fatter...
they freeze the shaft and heat a sleeve to fit on it, then whack it all in the lathe, to size it. then polish it up
steel because it was going in a roller bearing with steel needles. you could probably use a wider range of material if it was going in a bushing, this is where a good enginerring shop will help.. they'll know what to use

i just mocked it all up on the bench stick t5 on its side and put the bell housing in front by how fat your adapter is
straight rule across the bell and measure distance from it to the input shaft
meausre how far you flywheel sticks out from the back face of the block and you are pretty good for working out if it will come together well

even easier if you have a motor you can lay on its side on the floor, mount the bell on it, roll around on the floor peaking from the bottom to see whare the input shaft spigot end, ends up, with a 10 - 20 mm adapter space between the trans and bellhousing

i aimed for the end of the input shaft spline level with the fiction surface hence i will have decent spline coverage by the clutch plate centre. the flatest side of your plate always faces the motor

Dave


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