Does anyone have a part number for a flexplate that uses 3/8" bolts for a 904?

I considered drilling mine to enlarge the hole, I don't think there's enough meat there to work safely.

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

they have 5/16" holes now.... 3/8 means only 1/32" "on each side" of the hole bigger.... I don't think that would be enough to make or break the strength of the flexplate.

http://store.440source.com/Solid-Flexpl ... 00%2D1040/

This is a V-8 one so it will need one hole drilled. But they have all the bolt patterns and are extra thick. same as the SFI one without the sticker. $38.95. If you want a sticker it is $10 more. This is what I am running in my race car.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I used an sfi small block one with the larger holes in my Ruster Race car.

Redrill the one hole on the crank as Rick noted and you should be set for the next million milea or 10,000 Dragstrip passes.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I found the difference after the slant was installed in to to car. New high stall converter came with bigger screws than stock.

Yes, it was possible to manually enlarge all 4 flexplate holes from 5/16” to 3/8” without removing the engine.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

I've never seen 3/8", only 5/16" and 7/16"

My mistake. I am from metric side of the world. These bigger bolts are pain. A green Loctite can not keep them tight. I am going to try mig welder next step.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

How about "BLUE" locktite? That's what I always use, and never had a problem.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I use RED Loctite 271 and also Locking fasteners on the Race car.

https://www.stage8.com/product/8967a-fo ... plate-kit/

your thread size / pitch / Diameter might be different, especially if metric.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Probably Loctite uses different codes and colors here. Green is for ”no need for reopening”. Blue is one step weaker. I have not had red Loctite but I have it seen mentioned in the literature.

Also the threads are bit loose. Converter is custom built for me - not modified. A small diameter one with 3500++ stall

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

Thanks for the replies everyone! I'm leaning towards Rick's suggestion from 440source.com.

As a backstory, I had ordered a 2,800-RPM high-stall street torque converter (for my long-rod street performance rebuild) from Andre at Edge Racing Converters (mentioned here often). All his converters come with 3/8" bolts - why not the standard sized 7/16" - who knows? And while he has been super helpful with my converter selection and built a stout unit - his after sale assistance in recommending a flexplate that fits his converter is non-existent.

I appreciate all the input - as usual!
-Chris

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

Drill a stock one out with step drill bit.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.