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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2022 8:01 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 8161
Location: IRWIN PA
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Hello all,

Recently I have gone down the Rabbit Hole to Fix my own 3 Finger Style Pressure Plate. As There is not a local Clutch Rebuilder within 100 Miles of me that I could find, I would have to ship and Wait for my Pressure Plate to be rebuilt.

Except for Having the Pressure Ring Blanchard Ground (Any Local Machine Shop that can Blanchard Grind Flywheels should also Be able to do the same for the Pressure Rings) You can do this at your home shop, provided you don't need to check or set spring pressures (I did not change any of that on this build)

Other than wrenches and sockets the only other "specialty tools" that you might need would be a Shop Press, A spare clutch disc or some blocks the same thickness as your clutch disc, and a Flywheel, or other large flat pressing surface.

**Be sure to use a punch to mark the corresponding areas of the spring cover and pressure ring before disassembly - upon reassembly you want them to be aligned as they were before you took them apart.**

The process applies to finger style pressure plates, not the Diaphragm style type (although I am sure the process is somehow similar but not exactly the same for those)


Here is the Pressure Plate that I am working on:
Image


I had Sent it to a Clutch Rebuilder in New York Years Back as I needed to get the Facings on the Disc Redone as well as Surface the Pressure Ring..
Image

They did good work and I had No problems with it for the better part of 3 years.
Then I found the Clutch fingers to be broken or cracked.. The car was slowly Becoming Hardly Driveable or "shiftable"
Image

I had a bunch of stock 9 1/4" B&B Pressure Plates, To choose from to salvage the fingers off of.
Image
Image

I found some differences between my 9 1/4" PP and the Parts store Replacements... Which I will share in detail here.

First this Pressure Plate was Built by McLeod Clutches in California back in the Late 90's or early 2000's. Sam Powell Had it installed behind his T5 /Slant 6 in his '69 Dart.

I have No Part # for the Disc or Pressure Plate. That is why I had It rebuilt to Preserve the Spring Pressures and Good grip of the unit. Before the Finger Failure I was Pulling a ~2000# Trailer with this setup as well as autoX and Track Day, and Spirited Driving.

Comparison:
Stock on Right, McLeod on Left.
Image

Pressure Ring:
McLeod: - About 3/4" Thick -Has a different casting than stock.
Image
You can see the various Reinforcements on the backside of the pressure ring:
Image

Stock: - About 0.580" Thick - Maybe 0.200" Thinner on the casting.
Image
Less Reinforcements on the stock Pressure Ring.
Image


Can / Spring Housing:

Pretty Much the same, except the McLeod Version has provisions for larger 7/16"-20 Finger Adjusting Nuts (white Screwdriver Handle Points this out in the Pictures)

McLeod:
Image

Stock:
Image


Eyebolts:
This is another area where the 2 are different and the parts are incompatible between the 2..
Stock on Left - McLeod on Right:
Image


McLeod:
The Mcleod has clutch eyebolts & nuts that are 7/16"-20
-These are shared with the other B&B Style 3 finger pressure plates from the 60's-80's RWD Mopars, the Ubitiquis 10 1/2" V8 Plates use them as well as the 10" Truck Spec Slant 6 Pressure Plates.
In this Photo Measuring the "Nub" under the eye that inserts into the Pressure Ring.
Image
Height for Both is the same ~2" - This one is short as The Rebuilder welded the eyebolt and Nut together instead of steaking to prevent loosening, so I had to grind the weld out to get the PP apart.
Image

Stock:
Smaller nub and receptacle for the nub on the Backside of the pressure Ring.
Image

Hope that is some Helpful information there that someone can use in the future!

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack
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