(Valiant 65, 225 slant six, 903 standard manual transmission)

Some time ago I started getting a rattling sound when pressing down the clutch. I was hoping it was the throw out bearing and started working on it. I did manage to change it in the yard (had no better place, it took me two weeks to do it). The old bearing feels pretty sloppy, so I hope that was it.

However, I ran into trouble when trying to adjust the clutch. For some reason, it just didn’t seem to work. Perhaps I just don’t understand what I’m supposed to do. The FSM says: “Clutch pedal free play is the movement of the pedal required to close the clearance between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers.” I still haven’t put back the clutch cover plate, so I can follow the movement of the throw out bearing. Am I correct in believing that the bearing should not touch the three clutch levers, when the pedal is up? No matter how I adjusted the clutch rod, then pressed and released the pedal, the throw out bearing would stay loosely against the clutch levers. Today, finally, when testing with an extra transmission, bell housing and clutch fork I noticed a difference. The extra clutch fork that I have, seemed to respond immediately and back away the bearing. The clutch fork on the car, on the other hand, seems to have quite a lot of “looseness” (I believe the “tongue” that attaches it to the bell housing isn’t holding it firm). I think the retreating motion of the throw out bearing is lost in this “looseness”. Does this sound plausible?

There is no way to change the fork without removing the transmission again, so the idea doesn’t really appeal to me. On the other hand, I would rather do it again now than dead in the winter, if the new bearing starts rattling. Is there some kind of centrifugal force that pushes the bearing outwards anyway, that I am worrying needlessly?

Any advice appreciated, as always.
Maurice

Do you have a return spring that pulls the clutch lever back and the TOB away from the clutch plate fingers? The return spring is external and goes from the clutch lever to the bell housing.
You are correct in thinking the TOB should not press against the clutch fingers with no foot pressure on the clutch pedal. If the free play is set properly and there is a spring pulling the clutch lever back there should be some slight clearance

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks for the question. The return spring is there in the correct place and and it is pulling the fork outer end forwards. I have replaced the return spring a few years ago and it feels strong enough.

Any idea how fast the throw out bearing will wear out if it is litely touching the fingers (no pressure)? I suspect this looseness in the fork hinge/pivot is nothing new, but has been there for years. This might be the reason why the old bearing went bad. I prefer things to be correct, but if the new bearing would last 10,000-15,000 miles, that would probably be enough. I want to pull the engine within the next few years anyway to change the bushings, leaky Pitman arm and fix rust damage etc. if the bearing would last that far, I think I could live with it.

Maurice

With the varying quality of aftermarket parts available today it would be difficult to predict how long a TOB will last under the best conditions. In your case I would leave it as it is until you do your planned engine pull. A failing TOB usually gives some advance notice. Unless the car is your only daily driver I would drive it, but keep tabs to see if the clearance issue gets worse or better with use.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Pretty much my thoughts also. But it’s good to get confirmation from someone who has knowledge, thanks. I’ve been using the car for over 30 years, but when it comes to service and repairs, I’m still a novice. It’s really sad to see the deteriorating quality of the new spare parts, I have noticed that’s also.

In case this might help somebody else, when putting together the clutch, check the clutch fork for looseness. The tongue should keep the clutch firmly in place at the pivot point. It shouldn’t be sloppy there. In my car, the return spring does pull back the rod and fork end, when letting up the clutch, but the sloppiness eats out most of the free play specified. Only a very little of it translates past the pivot point to the clutch fingers, so the throw out bearing moves back only a fraction.