got a question about the crank extender/spacer portion of this adapter package. I will find out once I dismantle the engine from the trans but thought I'd ask first ("cheat" I guess)
I know that a 64, /6 will have the small snout crank flange, But on the other end/ being that a SB 727 was bolted up to it, will the side of the crank spacer that holds the flexplate and the converter snout fits into, will that be the "small" snout or the later big snout? I'd heard that the small converter snout, was a "/6 only" "feature". I know the crank side will have to be enlarged to fit over a 68 and newer crank flange.

Having this in hand gives me the option (and further confuses me, as to which way to go with this project) of going with either an 833 OD or an A500.... both of which I have on hand// in my 85 pickup project.... I now have EVERYTHING I would need to go either way, with my truck project.... except for a longer driveshaft, should I decide to go a500/// or whether to leave the 727 alone which was my original plan..... the engine in the truck now, is a fresh '74 vintage 225. coin flip time, I guess. I also have both factory column shift auto, and factory floor shift steering columns on hand.

All 727 trans had the big snout. Therefore, the crank adapter is small crank pilot and large converter pilot. I understand (but have no personal knowledge) that there were some Large crank pilot and large converter pilot adapters That were used with the later cranks, and before the slant six 727 became available. These were essentially just a "spacer".

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Yup but I'm gonna need that spacer if I also use the adapter plate. .. i don't believe that it would be a big deal to get the pilot bored out to slip over the back of my '74 crank....
Could probably have a complete new adapter made for the big crank snout and later, bigger diameter torque converter pilot using the one I have as a model/template either....

Nother question about this setup
After going through 17 pages of this section I see a couple of mentions of something on the big adapter plate needing grinding around the starter pocket with a newer trans. Can anyone specify what and/or where that needs to happen and how much?

I got that factory spacer lathed out to fit the big hub crank on my 68 Dart.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Yeah if I decide to go that route ( put the a500 in behind the slant) that's what I'm gonna wind up doing.
Hey Lou, while you're here......
I've been told you've been down that road.... What needs ground out around the starter?

I chopped out a piece of the iron plate to fit the starter, and had to drill 1 or maybe 2 holes in the plate to fit the A500 trans bolt pattern. Sorry, no pics handy but can maybe look later. It's obvious where to cut the plate and drill the hole when you mock it up.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

Alright thanks.
"Chopped out" sounds like there's a bunch to do to make it work... It'll be a while before I get that far but like many "not crazy about winter" anymore and so I'm "scoping things out"....
I admit I spend too much time on forums the older I get, especially in the colder months...
But often I ask not just for me..... Since I don't think I'd be the only one wondering about such things.....

Since all our engines use the same starter I am surprised the plate needs modified. Did the engines with the adapter use a different starter than I thought? Trying to learn me sumptin!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yeah Rick me too.
I don't know.
This engine and trans combo has the "rebuilder's industry standard 3257 Mopar starter on it ( sticker still there) not the oddball one Dan talks about on here.... So maybe that means my particular unit won't need to be modified?

All I know (which isn't much) is that when they came out with this adapter plate setup to put a small block trans behind the/6 the LA small block wasn't out yet, they were still on the poly series of V8s back then. And although the trans between the 2 v8s will supposedly interchange I guess there's some difference between them around the starter mount area. Something too about placement of the locator dowel pin below the starter.
Just what I have read in various forums. I've never tried crossing engines/ tranny's between an A and an LA series. This is the first cable shift torque flite I've ever had my hands on. ( And it will be for sale)
As I had said earlier in the post I went thru nearly the 1st 20 pages of the trans/rear end forum here and starting around page 4 or 5 there's a"hit" about every other page talking about this adapter setup and all I saw was that "grinding was needed"/ no pix or comments on the extent of grinding.
Now from what I have seen, Mopar used this setup for putting the V8 trans behind the/6 until 1968 or 69, which crosses the changeover to both the big crank snout on the/6 and the changeover to the LA engine. Did early LA or any of the A (poly) V8s have the small crank pocket?
Now that said I can't speak to the possibility of different versions of the adapter plate used (or not) to compensate.
Meaning that this modification may "only needed on some versions" and not others...

I haven't run the numbers yet but I was told that this engine and trans that I bought " just for the adapter plate and crank spacer" came out of a 64 pickup truck. Being a cable shift 727, and having the oil bath air cleaner with the cartridge type oil filter housing, plus the"take-a-part-a-ble" fuel pump and the 3 freeze plug block, I can certainly believe that these probably are earlier model versions I have.

I thought I knew exactly how I wanted to build this project but that was before various parts that I really wasn't looking for, but had to take while the getting was good/just because they're so hard to find if I was actually looking for them, (yet I can't win the lottery) has only added to the confusion in my head as to "which way to go".

It's kinda funny how that works, being that if I were actually looking for this pile of parts I have managed to acquire, how hard it would have been to find and what they would have cost in terms of both cash and time to search, gas, entry fees to swaps, shipping etc, why is it that whenever I have something to sell it takes forever to find someone interested, and I usually can't get 1/2 back of what it cost me, whether I'm dealing with car stuff, lawn and garden stuff, or whatever? That last thought is one for a different thread.....
Probably once I decide how I'm gonna build this truck and go to sell off the leftovers....